Every car is inaccurate in this respect. It would take sophisticated equipment that costs thousands of dollars to get a reading with a high confidence level. Instead we get a reading with a 95% confidence level. In statistics a 95% confidence level is considered to be very accurate.

95% confidence does not imply 95% accuracy. Be careful conflating the two. They mean different things.

What your talking about is confidence intervals for statistically significant behavior. How likely cause A is to result in effect B.

And to your point, it wouldn't take thousands of dollars of expensive equipment, you could simply measure the weight of the gas tank. I suspect Ford is using a flow meter, but that doesn't mean the calculations can't be done to adjust for the variables.

I pointed this out to Ford service, they are going to have the CSM for the region contact me. It is worth having others check this out as well. This is one small thing that can have a big effect. It also could explain why some cars appear to be better in MPG than others.

But it doesn't. You're missing the point. We all know that the car underreports how much fuel it has burned. Every car does this. But this car also underreports how many miles it has traveled. If you're going to correct the fuel use by calculating based on gallons at the pump, you should also correct the miles inaccuracy. It isn't fair to correct one inaccuracy but not the other in your calculations. Saying that the trip computer MPG is off by 5% is not accurate. Since MPG is a factor of two components (miles & gallons used) it isn't truthful to adjust the gallons for the inaccuracy of the dash display without adjusting the miles as well for this same purpose.

Actually, you missed mine.

Why should the car ever under report the fuel consumption by 5%? Mileage can be affected easily by tire size, inflation, etc. These items cannot be corrected by the computer. Fuel consumption doesn't have that issue. You can correct for time (evaporation?), temperature, etc. X gallons go in, X gallons go out. You should always get an accurate number for that.

Thanks for gathering the data! Have you checked your odometer accuracy?

 

Like lolder in the 2010, I have found that our 2013 odometer is off by 2%. I haven't found as large a discrepancy as you have in the gallons from the pump versus from the car so our odometer discrepancy almost perfectly offsets the trip computer inaccuracy.

Odometer, no. But the speedometer I have checked. It is dead on using my phone GPS as confirmation. (Cruise control set speed, confirmed with phone on many occasions.)

My trip this morning was (according to my phone, checked with Google maps) 26.3 miles. Assuming that's accurate, the computer claimed my trip was 25.9 miles (rounded down as the computer always does for the trip). I know some days it says 26.0, and others 25.9 (driving the same route) so I believe it should probably round up. 26.3-26=0.3. 0.3/26.3=0.0114 or 1.1% under. If instead we use 25.9, 26.3-25.9=0.4. 0.4/26.3=0.0152 or 1.5% under.

Given tire inflation (can change your speed by +/- 10%) this is fairly reasonable.

So I know all of you have been waiting for this, but I wanted to make sure my data was correct.

5% difference. Well that doesn't sound so bad, at least until you do the calculation. Average fill up is 10.366 gallons so I'm missing more than a half gallon every time I fill up.

I wouldn't be too concerned about actual gallons filled as to what the computers are saying. It is next to impossible to get the tank to the exact fill each time, so it will skew your findings anyway. I always try to fill the tank to overflowing, and I still get very different values each time. I am not sure we can accurately fill the tanks the same every time. There are too many factors as to how it fills (angle, time of day or heat, ect)

 

JMHO

Absolutely you're right that you cannot fill to the same level each time, which is why I was suggesting using 5 fill ups. Over time that error will fall into the noise range. For example, over 5 fill ups at 10 gallons a piece you'd expect to have the computer be at 50 gallons. So if the fill up is off by a half gallon, that'd result in 49.5 gallons, off by 1%. So you'd expect the computer and your notes to be pretty close at that point.

The goal is to check the actual input vs the amount the computer says came in.

So I'm seeing a discrepancy between my measured MPG (based on the pump counting the number of gallons going in) and the number of gallons consumed on the Trip display.

My next experiment (in about 3 weeks, after I have the fuel thing fixed) will be to reset the trip counter and check after 5 fill ups.

That said I don't want to do this alone, as one data point does not make a trend. Is anyone willing to check the number of gallons the pump reports going in over 5 fill ups and the amount of gas consumed in the trip computer?

Galaxy S3 has a similar issue. Here's the thing, text messages use a different Bluetooth profile than calls. The call profile is a standard now, that's why calls always work. The text message profile is just becoming a standard. As such some manufactures don't implement it correctly. It also might be implemented to spec, but the sync system doesn't understand (different interpretations of the spec).

Long story short, I'm hoping 3.6 fixes this issue, but I'm not holding my breath. Both Ford and Samsung can point fingers at each other, so it wouldn't surprise me if this doesn't get fixed.

Yep they don't like to show rounded numbers! Which can be a good a bad thing. On one hand it makes the MPG look better; your result is the perfect example; on the other it makes tech savy people scratch their heads.

 

I think the majority of people will never reverse engineer the numbers like we do so I guess we know the right way and can calculate the correct numbers.

?? Better? It makes the MPG look worse. 31.1 truncated vs 31.2 rounded.

So I was looking back at a picture I took a couple of weeks ago, Trip 2. I've left that counter alone since I've gotten the car.

It claims 927.2 miles @ 31.1 MPG consuming 29.72 gallons of gas.

Great, so I take 31.1 MPG and multiply by the number of gallons consumed (29.72) and I get 924.292 miles.

That doesn't add up, or so you might think.

If you take the gallons 29.72 and divide it by the number of miles 927.2, you get a MPG of 31.19785.

Rather than rounding, the computer is truncating after the first digit. This is likely true with all items. So what does this mean?

1. Distances, gallons and MPG are likely understated by less than one tenth (or hundredth as the case might be) of a mile (gallon, etc.) but are never overstated.
2. The computer is tracking more digits than it shows (otherwise this truncation would cause a much bigger difference than 0.3%).
3. I've got way too much free time on my hands.

GB

So I think I've finally broken in my car.

Yesterday morning, 44.9 MPG, afternoon 45.3 and this morning:

Well my static came back this morning, not as much, but still there.

Looks like it isn't fixed.

Since it is now fixed, I had a bad code for my keypad, 11211. 1&2 are the same key. I had a stupid "hacker's" dream. 11111 and my car would unlock. I'll post a picture later.

I was in Los Gatos all week while the dealership worked on my car. This fixed the stop static completely for me. \o/

Somebody else talked about taking delivery on a car that was filthy dirty...how strange, don't all dealers

at least "try" to clean up the cars before delivery? So a brand new car with dirt and crud on the seats?

It all does sound a bit fishy.

 

Somewhere in that thread it was concluded that the car (and probably a whole bunch of them) were sitting

somewhere where they all got very dirty and were ignored. Whether in Mexico or somewhere else, the Nov build date sort of

points at that - who knows the reason why.

 

The factory door code can easily be obtained from the inside display, the instructions are in the manual.

But it'll be reversed. Long thread on that.

So the problem with the code, isn't a locating problem, or anything like that. I know what the code is. The code is bad. It does something they say in the manual not to do. And since it is the factory code you can't change it/fix it without a new body control module.

Best I can tell from the images, it is the same 3.5.1 update applied twice more.

Odd looking to say the least.

On the vehicle with certain attributes due to inventory - if you were that set on getting just the items you wanted then why not order one? If that didn't work due to time constraints, could you have expanded your radius a bit to get one closer to your liking? I went across several states a few times to get exactly the one I wanted, though most are not that obsessive -- and if that's the case, why not order a 2013 model earlier in the cycle or wait for the 2014?

Wife wrecked her car, so we had a limited time to get one. Our search radius was something like 250 miles and still couldn't get exactly what I wanted. Kind of needed a car as I explained about the commute. 8 weeks of a rental wouldn't really work.

Remote start - if it was on the original window sticker, it sounds like the original dealer scarfed it before doing the DX with your local dealer, which if true certainly sucks but a dealer doing underhanded things on a car that he won't be selling, I'm shocked shocked I tell you. Not your dealer's fault (unless it was instead on THEIR add-on sticker, then that's another story), but does indeed suck.

Yes, but my dealer said they'd contact me when they got the system from the other dealership. So far, silence.

Factory door code - mine was in the owners manual packet and pointed out during the delivery process, as I bet it was for 99% of the other owners here. Chalk up another one for the original dealer, I bet. We can get the original dealer from pulling up the window sticker from the VIN and have 20 of us do an online quote request for the same car on the same day, won't help but might be fun.

This actually has nothing to do with locating the code, but I'll discuss details once my car is dropped off for security reasons.

TSBs - I feel your pain... as do others on here.

 

Mats - I bought both sets, they both suck. Ford should be ashamed of making such a skimpy one for the driver's area, too skittish from the Toyota acceleration fiasco from a couple years ago, who knows.

 

State of the car - Original dealer should have cleaned this, but instead sent it your way and your dealer didn't have to clean it, or didn't care? Are you sure this was a new car and not a demo for a while? When was it built?

Well the car had 200 miles. Consider the dealer exchange was 150 miles away and I'm pretty sure it wasn't a demo car. It was built in November of last year.

Recall on the gas thing - I haven't received anything yet either, which is a typical delay on any recall I've had, Ford or otherwise. If it was important enough to stop driving the car then there would be more publicity, like that thing last year with the 1.6 Ecoboost engines that affected mostly the Escapes but also some Fusions.

 

Survey - I have filled out two now, the dealer on car #1 said this was a really important thing for them, and I gave them all highest markings as all went perfectly. For car #2 things didn't go so well, I didn't think the dealer treated me very well and I rated them quite low - whether that really means anything to the dealer, who knows. So as the consumer that's the only recourse you have, blast away.

Thank you for your insights. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't overreacting to what appears to be a case of the blame game.

Others have said they can't really hear it easily, and I am in that boat. Not

sure if I have the issue or not, but I did hear what sounds like there is a stone

in the tire - almost a light "click,click" noise. Have to check to see that I

do/don't have a stone wdged in the tire tread.

 

I can only hear it if I turn off the radio, open the driver window and stick

my head out part way out the window. For those who are certain they

have the issue, does this accurately describe it?

 

As I said elsewhere and I've heard it described, think a ping pong ball being dropped. That noise.

I think of K as Kilo and M as in roman numeral for 1000. Guess I should stick to K, or use the zeros.

Kilo is 1000. I kilo of coke is 1000 grams of coke.

I just don't know why you'd measure soda pop that way. :headscratch:

LOL, I tried to warn you about mykey. Just don't do it on both keys. That would be very bad.

While I like my car, there's been more than a few things that have irritated me in the buying process.

Length of time. It took 3 days to get a car that was a dealer trade in the state. Now that doesn't sound like much, unless you have a 25 mile commute and a wife with a 40 mile commute in the opposite direction.

Issues with the car:

• What I wanted: I couldn't get what I wanted due to a lack of inventory. Not the dealership's fault, but still a pain.
• Remote start not installed but on the sticker. I was promised it was coming, haven't heard anything since.
• Body Control Module Replacement. I had to contact Ford directly, the factory door code has a problem I'll describe in detail later. Two weeks later they got the part from Ford. This is the only reason they called me to schedule my service.
• Various TSBs: 13-5-24, possibly 13-5-1 and 13-1-13
• Mats: I wanted the all weather mats, but since the sticker said it had premium I had to buy both sets. I never even used the premium mats.
• State of the car: I picked up the car on a rainy day. Had it been sunny, I might have walked away. I've never seen a new car quite as dirty as this one was once the sun came out. Specifically under the hood, it looks like it was blasted by water than drove through a dust storm. Dust and dirt on every seal, and in the car. I've spent hours cleaning it.
• No notice about the recall on the gas module. Seems they should have called me to check it out.

I haven't filled out the survey yet. I'm happy and mad at the same time. I know some of you have had much worse experiences, so need to ask, am I overreacting given that I'm paying over $35K for this car?

Place the fob into the pocket with the key ring up and the buttons toward the rear of the car.

 

The physical key is used to unlock the drivers door and the glove box. It has no other use.

Well it is shiny so you could try to signal a plane with it.

And I can't find a picture, but I believe it is sharp, you could cut packaging tape.

See if this helps.

 

I would have posted a picture, but I have the SE.

If you have MFT/MLT you can go to SETTINGS, VOICE CONTROL, and adjust the sync/navigation VOICE CONTROL VOLUME there. I needed to turn her down since I like my tunes LOUD on the highway. :shift: ;)

I believe that voice volume is separate from the navigation volume as well.

is it a slot shaped like the metal part of the key? or do you set the fob down into the holder

If I read correctly, you put the whole fob in a holder.

No No, I was referring to the Lexus Hybrid. Sorry if that wasn't clear.

Um so did you mean $45K? M=million, K=thousand.