DrewFM

lolol

WOW!! I am getting a grille cover.

I really like this idea. Sounds cheaper and easy. Thank HB

lmao

I've actually done the hard reset a few times as the community guinea pig. Bearing in mind that our FFHs learn new tables after the reset, I've noticed that if you do the reset while the HVB is anything less than 100%, the results are not as good. The differences I have observed are: 1.) EV power assist to the ICE while climbing a hill will be less. 2.) ICE kicks on even under light acceleration from a stop. These conditions are repeatable and can be verified by watching the power guages in engage mode AND they correlate directly to the HVB SOC when you do the reset. Sort of acts like the difference between resetting your MPG at the pump, or cheating and resetting it after you're already at cruising speed. Soooo...I force charge the HVB to 100% by pressing the gas pedal down in park, just to where ICE kicks in. Let ICE run until the charge arrow isn't lit and the HVB is 100% Now turn the key off. Do the reset. Like someone else mentioned, drive it like a baby for the first 10 miles or so while its doing the lionshare of learning. Should be running way better as I and others have experienced. Egg on my face if I'm wrong, but I've done this over and over again trying to figure out just what was affecting what and why. My FFH has already told me that it wishes to donate itself to science when it dies. lol I hope this helps if you have one of the less than 40mpg FFH. Like its been said in here before, you're not hurting anything with the 'reset' and if you're not getting at least 40 mpg at 70 mpg flat road, something is just not right.

If your clock didn't reset, I'm doubtful that it worked for you. Something is not right about that as far as anything being cleared or reset.

Please make donations to: DrewFM. lol j/k!

While my inspiration may have been my android phone's LI battery, I'm starting to think that everyone that has done the hard reset, may be on the correct thinking of what is actually causing the improvement in mpg. My thoughts were that it was changing some parameter with the SOC of the HVB battery. I'm more inclined to believe that other forum members are correct in that, the battery disconnect is actually resetting some learned tables stored in memory. The whole discussion on dealer test drives totally makes sense! Anyway, I'm still thrilled that so many of us have seen the same great results, even if it was discovered by accident! I guess the only question left is, is it the 12v, the HVB, or both and for how long? I noticed Eddie Sessum did not have the same improvement, but not any worse either, but he is driving a MKZ and not a FFH according to his profile, so aerodynamics, weight, wheels, tires, etc, etc, could be why?

LMAO! Well...... :shift:

Thank you, Gry Sql. I can tell you that my inspiration came from my android phone of all things (which also uses a Lithium ion battery). Phone was acting up yesterday morning,The battery hasn't been lasting as long for the last month. I had it plugged in charging and unplugged it at 80% according to the indicator.....so I did a 'hard reset' on it (pulling out the battery, reinstalling it and then reset android back to 'out of box'...after everything came back on, the battery indicator now read 100%! I thought to myself, how in the world did I gain 20% charge by just 'telling the thing' that it was new? Then, the 'hmmm, I wonder' light bulb went off about my car. Same thing happened. HVB charge stated about 20%....disconnected 12v and HVB for five minutes....reconnected and then it read 30-40%! Maybe, like the phone, if it thinks it's SOC is 80%, but its really at 100%, wouldn't it tell MG1 (generator) to stop charging? Somehow, I think all these things that use LI batteries, sometimes lose track of what the true SOC (capacity) actually is. That's my best semi-educated guess. lol ;) BTW, my mileage before the PCM update was 42-45 at 65mph. It tanked to 36-39 at 65mph after the PCM update. After I did the battery disconnect, I can go 72mph on flat road and get 44-48mpg! Yeah, it worked for me. I drive mostly freeway, so because of the raised EV speed, 65mph cycles the battery use/charge so much, that I don't gain a thing. (it's kind of up and down hills where I'm at) The magic charge benefit speed seems to be about 68-72 mph now.

I had the update done. My MPG got worse at highway speeds until I stopped and disconnected both the 12v and the HVB for about 5 minutes. I reconnected the HVB and the 12V battery (in that order), and viola! Immediately noticed that the HVB indicated a 100% charge, even though it was only at 50-60% when I stopped. I can only think that after the update, the HVB on some cars needs a new reference point as to what the HVB SOC actually is? Anyway, it worked.

You can go back to all factory default parameters by disconnecting both batteries for a while and then reconnecting. Keep in mind it will have to 'learn' everything all over again, as if you just bought it. This is in addition to having to re-program all your Nav destinations, radio stations, etc. etc.

Oh, and BTW, After you do this succesfully...hang on when you accelerate from now on because you are going to get the FULL output of both motors. MUWHAHAHAHAHAHA! Goodbye, girlfriend's 3800V6 2006 Grandprix off the line. lmao

This is purely my own experimenting with my new toy. 1.) Enter engineering mode. 2.) Vehicle in park, key in 'run' position. 3.) Force to HVB to 100% by pushing the accelerator almost all the down. (turns on the ICE, and warms up the engine to normal operating temp) 4.) Once the HVB is at 100%, let off the accelerator. 5.) Put the shifter in drive. 6.) Push the accelerator down as close as you can to the position you had it when you force charged the HVB. don't floor it, or your INST MPG bar graph display will flutter when you exit engineering mode, I don't know why... If if does this, just do it all again without pushing down so far on the accelerator. (If you've been watching the ICE/EV display in engage mode in the past, you know the EV will kick in 100% until the ICE catches up. (You are trying to 'set' this 100% state, just before the ICE r.p.m. passes the EV by). This is the crucial point from what I have observed. ;) 7.) You have roughly 3-4 sec to hold down the O.K button on your steering wheel to exit engineering mode and 'save' the new setting, so starting holding the button just before you accelerate. (you can try it from a full stop, or slow rolling start. see which way works best for yours.) 8.) Now take it out on the freeway, set your cruise between 65 and 70 mph and watch how much more the EV 'helps' the ICE out. I no longer see the inst mpg get sucked down to below 20 when climbing a gentle incline...and if your driving around town, in those spots where the ICE kicks in below 62, you will notice that the EV will also help out more, even if the HVB is at a lower SOC. Don't worry, they have made it so it won't discharge the HVB below a certain point. its apparently hard set from the factory. (It will do everything it can to help ICE not work as hard, which is basically what this experiment is all about.) If you try this, let me know if you also noticed an improvement. I drive mostly highway miles, so it helped for my driving style. I am not going to be blamed for your trips to the dealer, so don't even go there with me. ((at YOUR own risk) (I don't know what issues you may or may not have had with your car)) So far, so good for me, is all I can say after 6,700 miles. no warranty issues at all, which is a first ever for me. I love this car! Now it took me quite a bit of playing around to get to this point where I was happy, (i'm a perfectionist) so pictures of 100mpg long term you won't see yet, but I do regularly get between 42-47 mpg on the highway at 65-70 mph.