Check Brake System - Warning light keeps coming on

[mickey41]

Sorry if this is a repeat, but I did not find it in the search feature, I have a 2013 FFH that occassionaly has the "see manual" "check brake system" warning light come on with the little service wrench. The wrench is not flashing. I've taken it to the dealerships three times in the last six months and they never find anything wrong. They say 'no codes...no problems'. This is an intermittant problem that I cannot reproduce. It happens while the car is moving at various speeds. Two of the three times I was able to pull over, stop the car, restart it and the warning light went away. The other time, it took a few on/off cycles to go away.

 

Also, this last time, it was within a few hundred yards of my work, where the EV+ kicks in, but this time, because of the warning light (I presume), EV+ did not kick in. As a matter of fact, the engine kept running, even after I parked and turned off all the accessories (radio, AC, etc.). The engine did not stop running (even though the battery was at 50%) until I powered down.

 

Not sure what best course of action is, but I think just ignoring the warning lights is probably not a good one. Any thoughts?

[lolder]

There are several reasons why the ICE might keep running. One is a HVB re-conditioning event that is normal. This might be unrelated to your brake alert. Escalate the level that Ford deals with this.

[Easy Rider]

 

Not sure what best course of action is, but I think just ignoring the warning lights is probably not a good one. Any thoughts?

 

Two thoughts.

1) Play with the emergency brake a bit. That light you are seeing likely also is an indicator of the parking brake being ON.

 

2) Although it might not be possible.....or very difficult......taking it to the dealer when it is in the "failure mode" and not turning it OFF until someone

from the service staff verifies the problem might be the only way to get any action. And then you might have to insist that they KEEP it until they find and fix the problem.

If there really is a problem with the brake controls systems it could be a dangerous situation.

 

The "no codes, no problem" is total BS.

[Waldo]

Have you checked the fluid level in the master cylinder? I don't think that or the emergency brake would cause the wrench light (they would cause the read "brake" light, but it doesn't hurt to check.

[Griswald]

Video the dashboard next time. Show that to the dealer.

[mickey41]

Thanks for the feedback. The parking brake was not on, and I have video taped the warning lights to show the dealer when I'm there next week. I'm going to tell them to keep it until they fix it. I will also have them check out the master cylinder.

[Waldo]

Thanks for the feedback. The parking brake was not on, and I have video taped the warning lights to show the dealer when I'm there next week. I'm going to tell them to keep it until they fix it. I will also have them check out the master cylinder.

 

That's really not very helpful, what do expect the dealer to do, drive around in your car for 5000 miles hoping to have it happen again? With no clues other than a light that doesn't store codes, there really isn't very much they can do other than trying to throw random parts at it.

[acdii]

You need to immediately run a Vehicle Health report. It will list the malfunctioning areas. It wont give codes or anything, but will show the event which is something service can work with, it will at least point them in the correct direction.

[FordService]

Thanks for the feedback. The parking brake was not on, and I have video taped the warning lights to show the dealer when I'm there next week. I'm going to tell them to keep it until they fix it. I will also have them check out the master cylinder.

 

Reach out to me via PM, mickey41; I'd like to look into this further. When writing, be sure to include your full name, best daytime phone number, VIN, mileage, and servicing dealership. I'll get to work on some options to help.

 

Crystal

[Easy Rider]

 

With no clues other than a light that doesn't store codes, there really isn't very much they can do other than trying to throw random parts at it.

 

It that really is all that they CAN do, then that is what they SHOULD do.

 

The alternative of doing nothing is not acceptable.

 

I strongly suspect that some good old fashioned troubleshooting, starting with checking and re-seating any connectors that could possibly be involved probably would show up something useful. The standard crap about "no codes, no problem" is just a cop out.

[_LJ_]

Sorry for the necro post, but did you get this issue resolved? What was the root cause/fix action? I'm getting this within the first 250 miles on my new FFH.

[hikyuuri]

The "See Manual" with the wrench points to a Transmission issue. I had the "See Manual" with the wrench, and the dealer told me it was a transmission issue that causes that light to turn on. I did not have the brake issue, but seeing as how the Traction motor handles the Regen braking, they are related and could point to an issue inside the transmission.

 

Also, the fact that the ICE didn't turn off either may suggest there is a problem with the traction motor, requiring the ICE to run to provide drive power, or with something in the transmission gears that connect the Traction motor to the rest of the drive train.

 

 

EDIT:

 

Wow, didn't see the 2014 in the time-stamp of the OP. I saw July, so figured it was still a recent thread. Sorry if I also contributed to Thread Necro-ing.

Edited July 9, 2015 by hikyuuri

[suj]

I am having same problem, how did the dealer solved your issues?

[MeeLee]

Repeat issue. Apparently he's not the only person struggling with it.

Apparently the e-brake will no longer auto disengage, and cause the brake light to be on.

With the parking brake on, the car won't move forward or backwards. Just press brake pedal and parking brake to disengage manually.

Still, the fault alert is on, and brake light remains on.

The rest of the car seems to work just fine.

 

[Scott1776]

So I got a 2011 Ford Fusion hybrid. Was sitting park at a job site when check brake system light comes up, I try turning off then back on the car a couple times to no avail. Throw it in reverse to back out of spot and test brakes and needed to put peddle to floor and still very little stopping power, and needed to use e brake. Drove it about a mile to local shop, needing to pump e brake to make stops along the way. Got there and light is off when we go to look did a test drive around the building and brakes were back to normal again, they take it in anyway to check out everything and all is good, make the payment and chalk it up to a weird fluke. I get into my car to leave and immediately upon starting the light comes back on and brakes no longer work, I do not understand, what in the world could cause brakes to stop working spontaneously and back to normal.

[ftlbs]

On 1/24/2022 at 9:55 AM, Scott1776 said:

So I got a 2011 Ford Fusion hybrid. Was sitting park at a job site when check brake system light comes up, I try turning off then back on the car a couple times to no avail. Throw it in reverse to back out of spot and test brakes and needed to put peddle to floor and still very little stopping power, and needed to use e brake. Drove it about a mile to local shop, needing to pump e brake to make stops along the way. Got there and light is off when we go to look did a test drive around the building and brakes were back to normal again, they take it in anyway to check out everything and all is good, make the payment and chalk it up to a weird fluke. I get into my car to leave and immediately upon starting the light comes back on and brakes no longer work, I do not understand, what in the world could cause brakes to stop working spontaneously and back to normal.

Did you ever figure this out? My 2010 Fusion Hybrid is doing something similar

[MeeLee]

I did.

The issue seemed to happen on one of two conditions:

1- Low 12V battery voltage, 

2- cold outside.

 

Both cause the battery to hit low voltage, before starting.

 

The quickest solution is to turn on the car for a good 10 to 20 seconds, turn it off, and turn it on again.

 

Second option, change the battery, or add a 12V Lithium battery (with 2Ohms resistor in series) in parallel to the 12v battery. The Li battery will keep the voltage at the terminals above 12v. 

 

A 12v Li ups battery goes for $37 on Amazon or Ebay.

A 100W resistor goes for $2-3 on Amazon or Ebay.

 

Third option would be to install a 1-3F capacitor on the battery. They go for $35 on Amazon or Ebay. I haven't tried this method. It should help with increasing CCA to the starter, but won't help voltage issues when the battery is below 12V.