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Rear License Plate Bracket Rattle

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Every time I open or close the trunk on my 2013 HyTi, the rear license plate (and its bracket) rattles. It drives me crazy and makes an otherwise solidly put-together car feel cheap. The problem is that there are two screws for fastening on the top, but for some reason, Ford elects to eschew bottom screws and instead puts those two small rubber "nipples" on the bottom. They don't hold anything in place, and the bottom of the plate (and the frame/bracket) rattles every single time the trunk is moved.

 

I called the dealership, and they said they really haven't gotten any other complaints about this (astonishing -- am I just being OCD?), and couldn't really offer any solutions. They couldn't drill new holes into the car or provide another way to resolve this.

 

Does this rattle bother anyone else? If so, has anyone found a solution that doesn't require drilling into the car? I'd love to find a non-destructive way to keep the plate/bracket firmly in place and eliminate the maddening rattling noise.

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Have you tried 3M automotive tape? It's the stuff that they use to mount small plastic molding pieces to the car exterior.

I would give this try maybe it's enough to keep the license plate in check.

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I removed the bottom two rubber "bumpers" and installed the plastic fittings for licence plate screws. I have all four screws in ours. No rattles.

 

Dave

Edited by dkegel

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Where did you get the fittings for the bottom screws, and what are the specifications on those? I'm not very mechanically inclined, so any insight would be appreciated.

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I removed the bottom two rubber "bumpers" and installed the plastic fittings for licence plate screws. I have all four screws in ours. No rattles.

 

Dave

I did the same thing. Got the parts when I bought a license place surround (one of those chrome things with a plastic cover for the plate) to dress up the area.

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Every time I open or close the trunk on my 2013 HyTi, the rear license plate (and its bracket) rattles. It drives me crazy and makes an otherwise solidly put-together car feel cheap. The problem is that there are two screws for fastening on the top, but for some reason, Ford elects to eschew bottom screws and instead puts those two small rubber "nipples" on the bottom. They don't hold anything in place, and the bottom of the plate (and the frame/bracket) rattles every single time the trunk is moved.

 

I called the dealership, and they said they really haven't gotten any other complaints about this (astonishing -- am I just being OCD?), and couldn't really offer any solutions. They couldn't drill new holes into the car or provide another way to resolve this.

 

Does this rattle bother anyone else? If so, has anyone found a solution that doesn't require drilling into the car? I'd love to find a non-destructive way to keep the plate/bracket firmly in place and eliminate the maddening rattling noise.

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Thanks for the suggestions, dkegel and dalesky. Once I get done with some holiday travel, I will purchase one of those fittings/screw kits and see if I can fix this annoyance. For those that have done this, is it a fairly easy process? Does it require any special tools other than a screwdriver? So you remove the factory installed rubber bumpers on the bottom (perhaps with pliers?) and they just easily come right off/out? And then you can "place" (push? twist?) the plastic fittings into the hole from whence the bumpers came? Then the screws screw into the fittings? Is it that simple? Are there any issues with the new fittings being watertight?

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It's that simple, You only need a screwdriver. The fittings are the same as the ones Ford uses for the top two screws.

 

Dave

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Interesting, mine rattles too, but so used to it from the other car I never notice it.

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Our black FFH never rattled, but the new one has the license plate rattle as described above. Every time we close the trunk the license plate pops out off the plastic prongs and rattles. I'm constantly pushing it back into place. The plate on the black FFH never moved that I am aware in 19,000 miles...

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Today I stopped at the auto parts store, spent $1.67 on black plastic square inserts (which came with plate screws) for the rear plate, used my fingers to pull out the two black rubber plunger things (that came with the car) at the bottom of the plate, was left with 2 square holes in the plastic car trunk body, easily pushed in the new black plastic inserts (universal fit?) and I now have 4 screws holding on my rear plate. No more rattle, the whole project took less than 10 minutes. I've never understood the black rubber plunger posts things that came with the car, but they are history now.

 

Easy project, very satisfied. Everyone should do it.

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B25 has a fix for that, makes some really good glue!

I had an emergency blowout on an air mattress for overnight guests (granddaughters were jumping on it), B25's glue sealed the 2" tear in 60 seconds, the evening was saved by BSI. Hooray!!

 

Yes, and I use 4 screws on my license plate too, works great.

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I finally got around to fixing this problem, and A) it was a HUGE relief to not hear that accursed rattle anymore and B) super easy to resolve. See the attached photos for detail.

 

  • The factory standard black rubber nipples just pull right out of their original square holes (if you pull them carefully, you won't damage them in case you need to replace them for some reason).
  • The white plastic pieces that are replacements were called "assorted white plastic nuts" and I got them at Advance Auto Parts. It helped to remove the OEM black nipple, and take it into the store to match up the size of the part that goes into the square hole.
  • Screws were purchase separately, and were from a #8 and #10 assortment. (I believe the #10 is the one that fit in my case).
  • You just push the white nut into the back trunk hole, put your license plate (and or bracket) down over it, and insert the screw. Done.

 

NO MORE RATTLE.

 

I still don't know why they don't do this OEM. The extra parts would cost them less than a dollar. But now I'm happy, and can go to the grocery store without having nails raked across a chalkboard every time i load and unload my trunk. Thanks for the suggestions here!

 

trunk with hold

white nuts

screws

 

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It looks like the packet of white nuts includes more than enough parts for multiple vehicles. Would anyone be interested in splitting a pack to have less waste? I don't really want to add more items to the "junk" drawer at home from buying a pack with four white plastic clips when I only need two of them. The plastic clips/screws should be easy to mail.

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It looks like the packet of white nuts includes more than enough parts for multiple vehicles. Would anyone be interested in splitting a pack to have less waste? I don't really want to add more items to the "junk" drawer at home from buying a pack with four white plastic clips when I only need two of them. The plastic clips/screws should be easy to mail.

Good idea, but it will cost about $2.50 to ship them since they will not be flat in an envelope. Since they will not be flat, they will be considered a package.

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Good idea, but it will cost about $2.50 to ship them since they will not be flat in an envelope. Since they will not be flat, they will be considered a package.

Are they bulky enough that they won't work? I thought they would be flat enough to get through the postage machines for just $0.49.

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Just did my license plate nuts today. This was a good tip. The 2 original factory screws looked weak.

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I just got my 2017 FFH and have the same problem. These posts go back 3-4 years. Can't believe Ford has not put in their budget $1 to fix this annoying problem

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