wemis Report post Posted June 16, 2021 Hello, Lately I've been having an issue with my 2012. It's been running hot it seems though the temperature gauge is in the normal range. When I stop, the main fan which I'm assuming is the one that cools the radiator runs continuously even after I've ran on battery mode for 5 or so minutes. There is no CEL. I was going to get into the engineering test mode to look for codes, but I can't remember the process. I also scanned it via ODB2 with a scanner and show no codes. Can anyone give me any input on where to start checking? It has 118K miles on it. I've put 44K on it with no issues until now. Coolant is in the reservoir. I don't know if it's been changed before now, but I wouldn't think it would cause this issue. I appreciate any feedback! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MeeLee Report post Posted June 19, 2021 The fan also goes on when the AC is used. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
suprs05 Report post Posted June 21, 2021 On 6/16/2021 at 12:49 PM, wemis said: Hello, Lately I've been having an issue with my 2012. It's been running hot it seems though the temperature gauge is in the normal range. When I stop, the main fan which I'm assuming is the one that cools the radiator runs continuously even after I've ran on battery mode for 5 or so minutes. There is no CEL. I was going to get into the engineering test mode to look for codes, but I can't remember the process. I also scanned it via ODB2 with a scanner and show no codes. Can anyone give me any input on where to start checking? It has 118K miles on it. I've put 44K on it with no issues until now. Coolant is in the reservoir. I don't know if it's been changed before now, but I wouldn't think it would cause this issue. I appreciate any feedback! Check the 12v battery under the hood. I got this message the 2 times I got this warning message,Testing at auto store discovered Recovery capacity tested BAD! Even though I was testing with my multi meter 12.7v at post . also check coolant level in hybrid battery container under hood - upper right hand side ,smaller than radiator one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wemis Report post Posted June 21, 2021 I am going to try to crank the heat to see if the thermostat is stuck. I'll test the battery this evening or tomorrow. I'm not driving the car currently so tomorrow will be the first chance I can test it most likely. I have had the issue while running and not running the AC. Thank you both for your help! I'll keep everyone posted. :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
suprs05 Report post Posted June 21, 2021 All the battery and warming message has happened on 90 degree days while using AC. FYI. I think heat doesn’t help that small battery. Maybe why Ford moved it to the trunk after 2012 models Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lolder Report post Posted June 22, 2021 On 6/21/2021 at 9:09 AM, wemis said: I am going to try to crank the heat to see if the thermostat is stuck. I'll test the battery this evening or tomorrow. I'm not driving the car currently so tomorrow will be the first chance I can test it most likely. I have had the issue while running and not running the AC. Thank you both for your help! I'll keep everyone posted. :) If temperature is normal thermostat is not stuck. The noise you hear may be a nosy electric vacuum pump which Ford is famous for. Mine was noisy for two years before someone rear-ended it and totaled it. If there are no warning codes drive it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wemis Report post Posted June 23, 2021 I had the 12v battery tested at AutoZone and Advance just to double check it and it tested fine. I'm wondering if it could be the water pump for the hybrid side of things? I'll update once I get more testing done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
wemis Report post Posted July 6, 2021 Hey, I just wanted to let everyone I have solved my problem. Even though there were no codes being thrown, I had a local garage scan it with a Bosch scan tool. It mentioned the "electrical generator", if memory serves me correctly, overheating. They remember recalls on the electrical side water pump. I replaced it and all is good. I attached a picture of the pump for future reference. I appreciate all of the input from everyone! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
eisbaer Report post Posted July 6, 2021 1 hour ago, wemis said: Hey, I just wanted to let everyone I have solved my problem. Even though there were no codes being thrown, I had a local garage scan it with a Bosch scan tool. It mentioned the "electrical generator", if memory serves me correctly, overheating. They remember recalls on the electrical side water pump. I replaced it and all is good. I attached a picture of the pump for future reference. I appreciate all of the input from everyone! There has been a few posts around where the cooling fan stays on even if the vehicle is off, draining the battery. It makes sense that if the pump has/is failing and the electric powertrain is overheating that the system is running the fan to try and cool the fluid for that system. Thanks for the follow up with the fix for your issue! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shaaaane Report post Posted August 2, 2023 On 7/6/2021 at 5:05 AM, wemis said: Hey, I just wanted to let everyone I have solved my problem. Even though there were no codes being thrown, I had a local garage scan it with a Bosch scan tool. It mentioned the "electrical generator", if memory serves me correctly, overheating. They remember recalls on the electrical side water pump. I replaced it and all is good. I attached a picture of the pump for future reference. I appreciate all of the input from everyone! I'm having this same issue, I can't get the car out of the driveway without the Stop Safely Now message popping up and disabling the car. I replaced this pump myself but couldn't get the car to start. I had it towed to a Ford dealership and they would only recommend replacing the whole hybrid battery for $8k.. too much for me on this car so I had the car towed back. The tow driver was luckily able to start the car enough to move it for easier towing/dropoff but it quickly showed Stop Safely Now and disabled the engine shortly after. I let the car sit a week or so and went to do some troubleshooting and the car actually started and ran for at least 5 minutes. I was able to refill the coolant while it ran and got to temp but then it went back to shutting down right after starting. Do you know if the local garage who replaced this for you did any specific steps to get the new pump/coolant to get rid of the Stop Safely Now issue? I've tried hooking up the car to FORscan but it's having problems and won't let me clear the DTC to see if that'll help the car get past this. I'll keep trying that in the meantime to see if I have any luck. Even if I can get the car to start I'm hesitant to drive it anywhere to test it out for fear it'll get stranded somewhere and I'll have to tow it even more. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites