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2013 Hybrid with 98k. It blows out warm air only on HI setting. This is the same in electric or gas mode. If I lower the temperature to 85 or below, the temperature of the air coming out is drastically cooler. Any suggestions? Thank you

My 20144 FFH with 200,000 mi. will not run. Have had no issues before. The problems started with the key fob not opening the door. Then the car would not start, but eventually did after several attempts. A few days later it seemed the battery was dead. The key fob would not open the door and interior lights did not come on. We tried to jump the car with a battery pack but were unsuccessful. The battery pack said the safety check was unsuccessful. We changed the 12V battery after which the door would open with the fob and the interior lights came on. Efforts to start the car after the battery change have been unsuccessful, Various warning lights on the dash will cycle when the key is turned on and the green movement light does not come on, nor does the gear shift move. We had it towed to Ford dealer several days ago but the problem has not been diagnosed yet. Has anyone had a similar issue or can they provide any insight to what the problem might be? Appreciate all your help. Steve

Here for the forum

In my experience of the whole situation, I started out just for funsies asking the dealership for a quote on replacement. They came back with over $5000 just for the freaking battery! Not including any labor. I purchased a high voltage hybrid battery for my 2017 Fusion from Ebay at a cost of around $2000. This included price of the battery, plus freight, plus core. Doner vehicle was a 2019 with around 35,000 miles on it. (Very important to know the miles the battery has on it if purchasing used.) Most importantly if you are any kind of mechanically inclined you can do a battery swap in around 3 hours yourself. It helps if you do a little internet searching and download the official Ford hybrid battery removal PDF. If you are careful and go step by step, your car will run like its brand new. In addendum, no relearn process is required. Its as easy as changing a few AA's. Save yourself thousands, its a process anyone can do. 2017-Fusion-MKZ-HEV-Battery-Removal-Guide-Final.pdf

have a 2013 FFH. Just bought it a month ago. Drove it for a couple thousand km and all seemed normal, fuel economy was decent etc.. then one day recently z seemingly out of nowhere, fuel economy got quite a lot worse as a result of EV mode disengaging with nearly any gas pedal input. Some research suggested this could be the result of a bad 12V battery. Fast forward to last night. After driving throughout the day, I parked the car and attempted to start it about 2 hours later. It wouldn't start, and I got a message to "Stop Safely". When trying to start the car again, it was as if the gas engine would half engage, but pedal and gear input did nothing and car wouldn't move and a short time later the gas engine would just shudder to a stall. I have a phone charger that has a voltage readout on it. It was getting low, reading as low as under 8V. I attempted to boost the car, and even with the voltage reading 12.6, the car wouldn't react, eventually getting a Wrench icon. Throughout all this, the hybrid Battery icon showed empty/no charge Fast forward to this morning, the car started fine, all warning messages gone and after a few mins the hybrid system appeared to be charged as expected. I drove it to a local shop to have the 12V battery tested. It drove fine, other than still having the issue where EV mode won't stay with any real amount of gas pedal input. The battery tested fine, and I'm now not sure where to go from here. Any help or insight, other than just suggesting I take it to the dealer, would be greatly appreciated

So, my mechanic had left the car with the ac on full blast, and my car ended up with the high voltage battery completely depleted, and roughly 33% rechargeable. MPG aslo dropped by quite a bit. My model is a 2019 with lithium battery pack, and only has 95k miles on it. They supposed to come with automatic reconditioning, but occasionally this doesn't happen. I researched what this 'reconditioning' procedure is, and some mechanics may have tools to charge and deplete the battery pack several times, and restore it to much of its former glory. I don't have the tools, but I can do the charging and depleting from the car, as the "Empower" window shows the state of charge on my car, as well as the energy output to the electric motor. First I tried fully charging the battery for longer time, but that didn't do anything to recover the cells. Then I used the Empower window, to make sure the battery got completely depleted, by running the car on electric only. In Empower, a fully charged battery reaches about 2.25 bars (equals roughly 22kW or 30HP on electric motor output). I kept the motor output at 2 bars on the Empower indicator, where it struggled to reach even 50MPH (where as before it could easily do 70MPH at 2 bars). Once the battery level lowers to 2 bars, lower the motor output to stay below the state of charge indicator. If the output exceeds the state of charge, the engine will start, and you want to prevent this from happening, as you don't want to charge the battery just yet. At least not until the state of charge is below 0.1 bar (roughly 1-2 hp motor output). You'd have to have a fine foot, to keep the motor output under the state of charge the entire time, and a large safe space, where you won't hit anything, and won't bother cars behind you, as the car will slow down going on all electric. A good place to do this, if you don't own a dyno, is on a long straight road, without any side streets, preferably at night or late in the evening, when there's no traffic. And put lane assist on, as you need to switch your focus between keeping the car on the road, just not to end up in the ditch, and keeping the motor output below the state of charge on the indicator. Once the state of charge reaches nearly zero, the engine will automatically engage. You'll want this to happen with the SoC being as low as possible. When recharging, I find the battery charges fastest between 2.5 and 2.75 bars in eco mode, as less power is transferred to the wheels in eco mode, amd more power is harvested by the generator. You don't really need to fully charge the battery, but at least let it run up to 1 of 2 bars. The bms just needs to trigger the dead cell to charge. Once it charges, it can later figure out how much charge the cell can hold as you're driving normally, during its automated reconditioning procedures. Hence, the phase of emptying the battery cells during a manual reconditioning, is more important than the charging phase. Then repeat the process (completely empty the battery, and recharge) for a few times. Sometimes you can recover a significant amount of battery. Other times, only a little, as cells have lost even more voltage potential over the course of time when the bms bypassed them. Charging from a depleted state, will trigger a 'try to charge the cells'-action in the BMS, for those cells that are considered dead. The BMS will never charge these cells when the pack is charged up, because the charge current would be too high for the 'dead' cell (the dead cell would be charged from the other cells in the pack, and could overheat). Instead the BMS just disables the cell it sees as not functioning, until the rest of the pack has a similar low voltage. Then it'll try to charge the cells, just like the other cells, with a low current (divided over the other cells). The BMS will only try to charge the dead cells, when the rest of the pack is relatively balanced with the dead cell in terms of charge. I've repeated the process of charge discharge, about 5 times, and while I haf lost nearly 2/3rd of the battery charge before manually reconditioning, due to the error of my mechanic, I estimate that roughly 1/4th has been recovered since then, to a SOC between 50% to 66% of new (estimated). I'll probably need to redo the procedure again to about a good 10x charge/discharge cycles to have it working good again. Should take roughly 2 hours time (estimated). The procedure is nowhere explained, which is why I created this thread. If your battery has recently died, it should work without any expensive tools. I recommend to do the manual reconditioning procedure only when you've recently noticed a significant drop in mpg, and electric range. For me, that didn't happen until 95k miles. You apparently also can manually charge individual cells in a pack, when the above procedure was unsuccessful, by opening the pack, using a 1,2V charger, some crocodile clamps on each pouch cell cathode and anode pins, and bringing individual cells back to life through directly charging them (without bms). This procedure is significantly more tedious, but could save you thousands on repairs, if you have the time. That's also how battery repair shops repair a battery pack. They first recondition, and only replace the cells when necessary.

I have a 2013 Hybrid with 83k on it. It is mostly highway miles. We are currently on our fourth set of tires. It seems that the rear tires are wearing out before the fronts. They seem to be wearing evenly across the treads.Once the factory tires wore out we replaced them with some Continentals which we paid a lot more than OE. They wore out so quick that Continental replaced them for free. They put four new tires on and they wore out just as quick. Instead of spending more money on the same tires, we decided to have the dealer install OE tires. They are again showing significant signs of wear just on the rear tires again. The dealer says the shock are worn and need to be replaced at a cost of $395.00. I do NOT agree with this as they seem fine and show no visible signs of wear. I also notice that the cars rear 'Wiggles' when going over bumps in a straight line, especially at highway speeds, in a side to side movement. Sometimes it wiggles so bad it will cause my head to wiggle similar to a bobble head. I am sure that this is related or causing the rear tires to wear quickly. Any advice on where to look or what to check? Thank you

Hello Everyone, After having my tires rotated, I started to experience my steering pulling to the left intermittently and feeling a bit loose. I took it back in to have an alignment done since I have a lifetime agreement at my local pep boys. It did not resolve the issue. I needed to have the PCM updated to fix the wrench light, so I decided to take it in to get diagnosed by the dealership. They are very adamant that the issue is with the rack and pinion, which they tried to get me to replace before. Long story short, it turned out to be an issue with one of my tires. It's been about 4 years since then and I haven't had a single issue with my rack and pinion. They are now trying to charge me $3000 for the repair, but I declined and just got the update and a coolant flush on my engine/mect. When I picked up the car it is now pulling to both the left and the right intermittently. I looked at the notes and it appears the tech crossed rotated the tires. It doesn't appear that the tech did any other diagnostic work to rule out an issue with the sensor. Before I went into the dealership, I ran the codes and took a screenshot. I reset the codes, so I could get my power steering working again. I did have the typical service power steering light come on along with my abs and traction control lights. I am thinking that the issue is a bad steering angle sensor. I wasn't sure at first, but I saw a few youtube videos of other fords having this issue and it turned out to be a sensor issue. I wanted to check and see if anyone has an opinion or has experienced this issue before. If you have any information on possible diagnostics/calibrations I can do through forscan (I have the full license), that would be helpful as well. here are some of the videos I looked at: (I was having a hard time finding english videos) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWgY7FDNFt0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mc59s9JbpDw&t=608s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsjZfI13fLQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ed-KsE9m870&t=5s

Keeps randomly turning off showing Safety Now feature which turns the whole car off. Even with gas it will not go. Anyone else having this problem?

Hello guys! Recently i had an accident in the frontal area of my car (Fusion hybrid 2017). I changed all my radiator but i´ve been having problems finding the shutters. The quotation here in Mexico was very very high for that specific part because its electric and needs to be ordered from the fabric. Anyone knows if that part its unique of this model? Or any idea in how to fix this in a cheaper way? Obviously safety first but the quotation its ridiculous from my perspective. Thanks!

So I have 92,000 miles and when I start the car no warning lights come on. When I start to brake the regen brakes work fine but right before the car comes to a complete stop at about 5mph it’s like the brakes lock up for a split second and the car “jerks” and then the brake, abs, and traction control warning lightscome on. Disabling the regen brakes (which is annoying) and the abs system BUT the car doesn’t jerk anymore when coming to a stop. I took it to a ford delearship and replaced the master cylinder for $1100... and it helped for 1day then the next morning it happens again. The only code my car puts out on my scan tool is C1029 which we thought was the brake master cylinder . Please please please Can anyone help me

Over the last few months the forum has grown immensely with a proliferation of new users and topics. Jeff_h mentioned the idea of compiling one thread with some useful resources for new members so I wanted to put this together. This thread explains a bit of information about the EPA 47 MPG rating controversy and helps us to understand why EPA test cycles don't necessarily match your driving style This thread explains why a hybrid car is more efficient than a gas-only car. It also helps us to see how we can maximize the advantages afforded us with the dual powertrain This thread explains the operation stages of the FFH and how it warms up This thread and this thread have some excellent suggestions of how to increase your MPGs This thread explains what an eCVT is and how it works This thread explains some ScanGauge observations, the technical knowledge gained from the ScanGauge helps us understand how the car works This thread explains Engineering Test Mode, a useful tool to further understand your vehicle's operation If you have just ordered a vehicle and want updates on its progress please see this thread and this thread. Over at the Blue Oval Forum you can also request updates here You don't need to create a new thread to ask if you're getting a good deal, use this rule - it's a good deal if you're satisfied with it If that isn't enough then use www.kbb.com to figure out the invoice price of your vehicle with your options and use that as a goal in your negotiations. Some users have been able to buy below invoice, many right at invoice. That is a great deal. However, feel free to create a new thread to brag about the good deal you got, we're just trying to stop the rehashing of the same questions over and over again If you recently got your Fusion and are hearing a cracking, popping or clicking noise while braking & accelerating you can review these 3 threads: one, two & three If you're wondering about oil change intervals you can read the long topic found here, or simply remember this rule posted by another user: "changing your oil more frequently than it is necessary will never hurt your car, it'll only hurt your wallet". The FFH is equipped with an oil life monitor that tells you the % of oil life remaining based on your actual driving data. Ford also puts the guideline to not exceed 10,000 odometer miles between oil changes even if the oil life monitor indicates there is still life left in the oil. You can change your oil more often if you'd like, I do, based on your personal comfort level. If you want to know how to change oil yourself you can read this thread If you wonder if an extended warranty is worth it then you can read this thread. You can also just follow the rule mentioned above about your purchase price. An extended warranty is a good deal if you're satisfied with the price you paid for the peace of mind the warranty brings. The actual dollars paid mean little in comparison with evaluating the value you place on your peace of mind And finally, this thread is a fun one to read to see a smattering of high MPG trips. It's quite long now, but can be browsed through rather quickly because a lot of the posts include pictures which take up lots of screen space. Many of the posters here provide some detail as to what the terrain is like on their trips and this has helped us all to understand the optimum conditions for high fuel economy in the new FFH. If there is something specific you're looking for the Moderators have tried to keep threads organized in the correct topic groups (General Powertrain Discussion, Interior, Wheels & Tires, etc) to make things easier to find. The search box function in the Forum itself hasn't proven super helpful. I've found that when you do a Google search for "Fusion Hybrid" and whatever you're searching for the Forum often shows up as the top result if it is something we've answered. An example is typing in "Fusion Hybrid shark fin antenna" to Google and getting the results found here. Our topic on the subject is the first result. I hope others will feel free to add other links to this thread of useful resources for new users so that they can more easily find useful information that will benefit them

Hi I have a repair manual I found online. There's a lot of info it's in pdf format. It's for 2012 MKZ/Fusion Hybrids so should be the same for 2010-2012 years. Thanks to eteichmann from the fordfusionforum for making this public. https://www.scribd.com/doc/239091589/Ford-Fusion-Hybrid-Workshop-Repair-And-Service-Manual

Can anyone assist in possibly diagnosing this problem? I'm thinking the AC compressor is bad. Whenever the AC is on it sounds like a jet engine under the hood. Lifted the hood, and the noise is coming from the compressor area. I made a short video of the noise. I'm still getting semi-cold air. https://imgur.com/a/QghqFuR

Hello, Back in 2012, I purchased an used 2002 Toyota Prius with 80k miles at an auction for $4800. It was great and I averaged around 52mpg average upon usage. The model line of first generation prius (2001 - 2003) had some defects, but the main one was the extremely small tires. They needed replacement just over a year of usage (about 15k miles with my driving). Anyway, it recently gave out at 220k miles and the repairs were just too much for what the car was worth. After doing some research on what I'm looking for and what my needs are, I've landed on purchasing a Ford Fusion Hybrid. My main questions revolve around how high the MPG can go assuming you're using good MPG hybrid driving techniques and live in mostly sunny weather (Los Angeles). The EPA estimated MPG for old 2002 Prius was 41mpg, but I was about to reach around 52mpg. The Ford Fusion Hybrid had an EPA estimated 42mpg, and I was wondering if I would be able to stretch the MPG to around 52mpg or higher like I did my old hybrid? I've been reading the information on this forum which has been extremely helpful, and have even seen a 600 mile club! :)

Hey thanks for reading! I am in the process of purchasing my second Ford Fusion, my first Fusion Hybrid. I am going through Carvana which offers a 7 day test drive before you accept the vehicle. Today is day 1 of my second 7 day test drive, I swapped the first one out because it lacked options(no leather mainly). It was a 2015 Fusion Hybrid SE, the one delivered today is 2016 Fusion Hybrid Titanium. I am hoping to get some input on the driving experience I am having in the 2016 vs. my experience in the 2015. I loved the way the 2015 drove, really smooth and refined feeling, I just wish it had leather and maybe a few other options. I love the 2016 Titanium for its nice interior and plentiful options, but it is not driving as well. I'm not sure if I should just swap it out for another again or tell Carvana my issues and try to have them get it fixed... The issues you ask? I notice 3 things with the 2016 Titanium that are different from the 2015 SE 1. MPG is worse, based only on the displayed MPG on the lcd in the gauge cluster. I was able to average 48-58mpg for most of my trips in the 2015, the 2016 is reporting 23-42. I am basically doing the same daily driving routes in both. 2. The gas engine engages sooner in the 2016 than the 2015. I notice that I can only run the EV gauge up about 60% before the gas engine kicks in no matter how light my foot is. In the 2015 I was able to consistently hover the EV gauge around 80-90 percent while cruising under 40mph. 3. I notice that the regenerative braking starts to take effect as soon as I take my foot off the gas pedal in the 2016 and the car seems to decelerate quicker than in the 2015. In the 2015 the regenerative braking do not start to take effect until I put pressure on the brake pedal, and the 2015 seem to coast more when I took my foot off the gas? I have a feeling that these may all be linked to the same issue, just don't know what that issue may be. Any ideas? One other thing, this Hybrid Fusion Titanium is the last one they have, so if I do a swap it will be a Fusion Energi Titanium, but i live in an apartment with nowhere to plug in, can I expect the same mpg performance as a regular hybrid if I never plug in/ charge the Energi Hybrid? Again, thanks for reading and all responses are appreciated! Mike

Thinking about going to this Show to see all the latest Info. https://evtechexpo.com/useful-information Paul

My 2013 FFH was built in September 2013 I believe. I didn't take delivery until Jan. For four months of driving 6000+ miles I'm averaging lifetime of 38.1mpg. Awfully disappointing, so I began to search for answers, after taking my car in for a check engine light on, a sillenoid seal was replaced and the mechanic told me "you should see a significant improvement in MPG". False. Still same. However, I tried an experiment with the AC completely off since I read that in hybrids the AC can really really affect the MPG... for two days of driving I'm averaging about 49-51 mpg all of a sudden. Voila! It's the damn AC causing such horrible MPG (for me at least). (Which is still pretty messed up that they advertise 47mpg knowing that people use the AC). Anyway try no climate control for a tank of gas and post what your mpg is after that!!! 20% better in my case so far but I need to do a whole tank of gas!!

Hello everyone. I have a 2014 Ford fusion hybrid titanium edition. I’ve gone to the same dealer that I purchased it from for all oil changes and service and tires. I Bought my car from Pratchett’s Ford, then Price Ford bought them up. I have 152,000 miles on that car which is 2 1/2 years old. Yes, it’s a lot but it’s my commute car. I drive 160 miles a day for work. I have always maintained my car through Price Ford. I get green check marks all the time. It was just serviced a couple months ago. I passed with all green checks. Last weekend my hubby pointed out a noise. I thought alignment. He said more like rear wheel bearings that failed. We dropped off the car and mentioned the noise, BUT not what we thought. I received a call later telling us that my car needed new rear wheel bearings. The cost was about $750.00. I said go ahead, please change them. 3 days later I called to check status. My service advisor Curtis said they changed them. But it didn’t help with the noise. He said I need a brand new transmission on my hybrid. I was shocked. He also said it would be about $7,000.00. Please keep in mind, I still have my ORIGINAL brake pads and my average speed daily is 55-50 MPH. I know what a bad tranny sounds like and how it moves. My previous vehicles I had one replaced. There are a handful of articles on the Internet about 2014 Ford Fusion Hybrid tranny going out. Honestly, it’s very rare. Cutis also said he has never seen a hybrid come in for a new tranny. I called Ford customer service and basically, they said sorry we can’t help you. I feel Ford should be responsible for: 1. the cost of the repair or 2. the buyback program for my car. I’ve looked on the BBB regarding the auto line for Ford and if this doesn’t get resolved between Ford and I I’m going to go that route. My extended warranty ended at 125,000 miles. I was told when I purchased the car from Patchett's to upgrade to the highest miles package. I did. I was never notified by Ford that my warranty was coming to an end. The many cars I’ve had a most professional dealership and or manufactures will notify the customer of the warranty ending and offer an extension. I never received or was told anything.

Hey Guys! I am considering a Ford Fusion Hybrid Energi as my next vehicle. I currently drive a 2013 Ford Escape but want to go hybrid and downsize to a Full Size Sedan instead of a SUV. My concern is where I live and the performance of Hybrids in the cold. I live in Labrador City, Newfoundland and Labrador in Canadas North. For the past week it hasn't gone above -15C (5F) but most nights it will get to an average of -20C (-4F). In the very cold months in January and February it will sometimes get down to -50C (-58F) for a couple days during the winter. Block heaters are a MUST in the winters here. It gets so cold that the part of a tire that touches the ground will freeze flat overnight so that you can feel it when youre driving in the am. That being said our spring and fall are quite mild... 5 - 15C (41-59F) and summers can get quite hot 30C (86F). Does anyone have experience with these types of cold temperatures and Hybrids or the Energi in particular?? The Local dealership sells them so I am assuming they would be okay. I realize that the electric mileage would be drastically reduced in the extreme cold. Sorry about all the conversions, I am just assuming that there are many Americans here vs Canadians.

Hello all and thanks in advance for any help! I have a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid with 150k miles and all scheduled maintenance performed on-time. I have a Stop Safely Now light that started intermittently a little over a month ago and is now hard failed. The first time it happened was 5 weeks ago and I had just returned from a trip out of the country and the vehicle sat 10 days without running. After starting the car I was able to drive about 20 feet at which time I stopped to connect bluetooth and the SSN message illuminated. My first thought was dead or dying battery since I have heard this could cause SSN. I jumped the car and drove without issue for the next two weeks. Then three weeks ago I got in the car after leaving it parked overnight and drove for about 10 feet before I got SSN. This time I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new 12V battery without testing the installed battery. After installing the new battery I still had the SSN light and I called it a night. Further research shows the 12V battery I removed assuming it was dead was only installed 3 years ago and is likely in serviceable condition. After letting the car sit overnight with the new 12V battery installed I started it in the morning with no problem and did the fuel trim learning game. I drove with the new battery for 3 weeks with no issues until last weekend. Now the car has the Stop Safely Now light illuminated on key turn and it will not move under its own power. I used my OBD2 reader to download codes twice. The first set of codes was downloaded right after the battery change so I am assuming some of the codes are from that: C1600 - reverse input circuit C1015 - exhaust gas recirculation sensor B circuit high U3003 - battery voltage I cleared these codes after the battery change and I had no engine lights or driving issues until last weekend. I also checked the engineering fault code page on the dash after the battery change and I had no current or historic faults recorded. Now the car has a OBD2 code C1018 - regen braking and on the engineering fault code page it lists DTC C46200 as a historical fault. Keep in mind I am using a very basic OBD2 reader so it is likely missing some faults. I have been reading everywhere about the Stop Safely Now issue and it seems to stem from a number of different issues, the most frequent being a coolant pump. I could really use any advice in troubleshooting this issue myself (I am an aircraft mechanic) or relevant manual references. I am trying to avoid a costly stealership repair but I am pretty stuck at this point. Worth mentioning all of the fuses are in good shape! Please let me know if you have any questions that would help point in the right direction.

My 2016 Ford Fusion Hybrid has just started sounding like it has an air compressor running in the trunk (I can hear it over the front motor, when it's running). I've owned it 15 months now and not heard the noise before. My local Ford Service is trying to tell me it's "Normal". If it's "normal" why am I just now hearing it? Any thoughts from the Forum?

I recently installed aftermarket heated seats in my 2014 Fusion Hybrid S. I installed Bussman Add A Circuit to two fuses in the interior fuse box. I tried a number of fuses which I thought would be off when the ignition key is not engaged, but all of the ones I tried were always active. Given the difficulty of accessing the fuses under the dash, I decided to take the risk and train myself to turn off the heated seats so as to not drain the battery down. Within 24 hours, I forgot to turn my heated seat off and was subsequently locked out of the car using the remote unlock. I was able to remove the key cover and get into the car. It started up without a problem as the battery wasn't completely dead. So, I have a a few questions. Will the car basically go into a low power mode to prevent completely drawing down the battery? Second question, and probably more important, are there circuits that will shut down when the ignition key is not engaged? Thanks in advance.

Here is an excellent explanation about how the powersplit device in a hybrid works. The difference between the FFH & Fusion Energi is that the MG1 is larger in the Energi which allows it to reach a higher speed in EV mode (85 MPH vs 62 MPH). This is exactly how our cars work, the difference being that the gear ratio is different because of different size MG1, MG2 and engine. Toyota and Ford both use this design for their hybrids and this technology is why the Ford & Toyota hybrids are superior to hybrids made by Honda, Kia, Hyundai, Volkswagen or GM. All the other manufacturers place an electric motor sandwiched between the engine and the automatic transmission. That is a less efficient design than what Ford & Toyota have done. The other hybrids are "one motor" hybrids, whereas the Ford & Toyota hybrids are "two motor" hybrids as they have 2 electric motor/generators as shown in the video. The next gen Honda Accord Hybrid and Plug-in Hybrid introduces a two motor hybrid system for Honda, their first. It will be interesting to see if it is engineered the same as I believe Toyota and Ford own the patents for this design.

I would. And that's exactly the situation we found ourselves in this week. Let me explain... The recent purchases reported online of leftover 2013 FFHs & FFEs along with 2013 C-Maxes made me curious as to how many 2013s are left new on dealer lots across the country. So I spent a few minutes searching on cars.com and saw that there are still quite a few around. I noticed that a lot of the leftover vehicles seem to be rather basic models, without a lot of the advanced driver assistance technologies. And quite a few of the Fusions have MFT & Nav without many other options. Then I happened upon a loaded Energi Titanium with all the advanced driver assistance options just like we had on the white FFH. Out of curiosity I e-mailed the dealer to see how low they'd be willing to sell it. The prices on cars.com basically all showed just MSRP or only a very small discount. The dealer e-mailed me back and indicated that they were willing to knock about $15k off MSRP (about 33%). I then wrote back to see what they'd give us in trade for our FFH. I decided before I wrote them that the only way we'd do anything is if they were willing to give us $1500 above KBB for the trade. I decided upon this price because it would allow us to get the Energi for free, the tax credit basically equals the difference. Their initial response was right at KBB trade-in value. Before I continue, I want to give you a little background on the dealer. They're a dealer in a small town in Wisconsin, about 4 hrs from Minneapolis. They're not near any big cities. They sell four brands at the one dealer building: Ford, Lincoln, Hyundai & Volkswagen. I had learned at a MNPEVOC (Minnesota Plug-in Vehicles Owners Circle) meeting that you can often find the best deals on plug-ins and battery electrics at small town dealers in the country that get sent a car that they don't know how to sell. A number of the Focus Electric owners in the group got their cars from dealers in rural MN or WI, same story for a few Energi owners in the group. Some of the Nissan Leaf owners also said that they found the best deals by getting a Leaf from a rural dealer rather than from one in the Twin Cities. A Mitsubishi iMiev owner did the same thing. Considering that this dealer has 70 trucks out of 100 new Fords on their lot I figured that they fit the same profile. On Tuesday I told the salesman that they'd have to do better on the trade difference to make it work. He spoke to the used car manager (also the finance manager who did our paperwork today, very small dealer) and offered another $1000 for the white FFH. I asked if I could discuss it with my wife and call him back Wednesday. After we agreed Tuesday night that we'd do it only of they'd give us another $500, I called the salesman and told him that on Wednesday morning. He said he'd ask and e-mail me. Less than 5 minutes later he e-mailed me and said they'd do it. Today we drove about 4 hours (220 miles) each way to Wisconsin and picked up the Energi Titanium. After the tax credit we will have paid less than $500 for the new Energi Titanium. And about $30 in gas total to drive 440 miles today. It was really incredible!! And I encourage anyone who's looking for a new FFH to consider one of the leftover 2013s because you can probably find a dealer who's desperate to get the car off their lot.