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I've had this car since new, now with 156k miles. Throttle body replaced in 2019, battery last replaced around 2017-2018. This past Saturday I had my first Stop Safely Now event. I was driving in about 65 degree, rainy weather, full tank of gas, about 45 minutes into a drive, when all of the sudden "Stop Safely Now" popped up on the dashboard and the engine lost all power. I've experienced throttle body / limp mode issues in the past, but this was the first time I've seen SSN + loss of all engine power. After pulling it over and letting it sit off for 30 seconds, I started it back up, and was able to drive 5 miles home without an event. I left the car in the driveway and purchased an ODBLink MX+ on Amazon, which came Sunday night. With the key in "On" (without the engine started) I was immediately able to pull the following codes (shown in screenshots below) Confirmed: P1A0C-00 Current: U3003-16 B10DA-86 U300A-62 P0562-00 P1000-00 P1A0C-00 P0562-04 I brought it to the dealership yesterday, with whom I've had a good relationship with for the past 12 years, but they weren't able to read any current codes from it. As such, they didn't find any issue, didn't charge me for the visit, and I drove the car home last night (without issue.) Three questions: 1. Has anyone else experienced similar codes with a "Stop Safely Now" event? 2. Are all of the current codes I'm seeing about battery power related to the fact that the car was "On" without the engine on? The dealership said the battery tested fine, and my scanner shows 13.7V - 13.8V, for what that's worth. 3. Why was I able to pick up these codes with the OBDLink and the dealership wasn't able to pick them up with their equipment? There aren't any codes listed in Engineering Test Mode, so I don't doubt the validity of their claim. I'm not sure where to go from here. I'm obviously hesitant to drive it under situations where it could be dangerous if it suddenly cuts out on me again.

Hello Everyone, After having my tires rotated, I started to experience my steering pulling to the left intermittently and feeling a bit loose. I took it back in to have an alignment done since I have a lifetime agreement at my local pep boys. It did not resolve the issue. I needed to have the PCM updated to fix the wrench light, so I decided to take it in to get diagnosed by the dealership. They are very adamant that the issue is with the rack and pinion, which they tried to get me to replace before. Long story short, it turned out to be an issue with one of my tires. It's been about 4 years since then and I haven't had a single issue with my rack and pinion. They are now trying to charge me $3000 for the repair, but I declined and just got the update and a coolant flush on my engine/mect. When I picked up the car it is now pulling to both the left and the right intermittently. I looked at the notes and it appears the tech crossed rotated the tires. It doesn't appear that the tech did any other diagnostic work to rule out an issue with the sensor. Before I went into the dealership, I ran the codes and took a screenshot. I reset the codes, so I could get my power steering working again. I did have the typical service power steering light come on along with my abs and traction control lights. I am thinking that the issue is a bad steering angle sensor. I wasn't sure at first, but I saw a few youtube videos of other fords having this issue and it turned out to be a sensor issue. I wanted to check and see if anyone has an opinion or has experienced this issue before. If you have any information on possible diagnostics/calibrations I can do through forscan (I have the full license), that would be helpful as well. here are some of the videos I looked at: (I was having a hard time finding english videos) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sWgY7FDNFt0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mc59s9JbpDw&t=608s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BsjZfI13fLQ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ed-KsE9m870&t=5s

So I have 92,000 miles and when I start the car no warning lights come on. When I start to brake the regen brakes work fine but right before the car comes to a complete stop at about 5mph it’s like the brakes lock up for a split second and the car “jerks” and then the brake, abs, and traction control warning lightscome on. Disabling the regen brakes (which is annoying) and the abs system BUT the car doesn’t jerk anymore when coming to a stop. I took it to a ford delearship and replaced the master cylinder for $1100... and it helped for 1day then the next morning it happens again. The only code my car puts out on my scan tool is C1029 which we thought was the brake master cylinder . Please please please Can anyone help me

Can anyone assist in possibly diagnosing this problem? I'm thinking the AC compressor is bad. Whenever the AC is on it sounds like a jet engine under the hood. Lifted the hood, and the noise is coming from the compressor area. I made a short video of the noise. I'm still getting semi-cold air. https://imgur.com/a/QghqFuR

Hello all and thanks in advance for any help! I have a 2010 Ford Fusion Hybrid with 150k miles and all scheduled maintenance performed on-time. I have a Stop Safely Now light that started intermittently a little over a month ago and is now hard failed. The first time it happened was 5 weeks ago and I had just returned from a trip out of the country and the vehicle sat 10 days without running. After starting the car I was able to drive about 20 feet at which time I stopped to connect bluetooth and the SSN message illuminated. My first thought was dead or dying battery since I have heard this could cause SSN. I jumped the car and drove without issue for the next two weeks. Then three weeks ago I got in the car after leaving it parked overnight and drove for about 10 feet before I got SSN. This time I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new 12V battery without testing the installed battery. After installing the new battery I still had the SSN light and I called it a night. Further research shows the 12V battery I removed assuming it was dead was only installed 3 years ago and is likely in serviceable condition. After letting the car sit overnight with the new 12V battery installed I started it in the morning with no problem and did the fuel trim learning game. I drove with the new battery for 3 weeks with no issues until last weekend. Now the car has the Stop Safely Now light illuminated on key turn and it will not move under its own power. I used my OBD2 reader to download codes twice. The first set of codes was downloaded right after the battery change so I am assuming some of the codes are from that: C1600 - reverse input circuit C1015 - exhaust gas recirculation sensor B circuit high U3003 - battery voltage I cleared these codes after the battery change and I had no engine lights or driving issues until last weekend. I also checked the engineering fault code page on the dash after the battery change and I had no current or historic faults recorded. Now the car has a OBD2 code C1018 - regen braking and on the engineering fault code page it lists DTC C46200 as a historical fault. Keep in mind I am using a very basic OBD2 reader so it is likely missing some faults. I have been reading everywhere about the Stop Safely Now issue and it seems to stem from a number of different issues, the most frequent being a coolant pump. I could really use any advice in troubleshooting this issue myself (I am an aircraft mechanic) or relevant manual references. I am trying to avoid a costly stealership repair but I am pretty stuck at this point. Worth mentioning all of the fuses are in good shape! Please let me know if you have any questions that would help point in the right direction.

Hi Guys, I have been looking around the forum for some time in preparation for hopefully buying a FFH 2011-2011, and I have some questions, maybe some of you guys can answer. I am from Jordan, Middle-East, and the hybrid variant of 2010-2012 was not actually sold by the Ford dealership here in Jordan, however, they do have complete support for it, which is a plus. All FFHs in Jordan are imported from the states, and I have been looking around to get me a 2010-2011, the 2012 is beyond my budget, a base model 2010-2011 with ~100k miles costs us around $20000 with all added tax and customs, yes crazy I know! now to my questions: I have been looking for almost a month now and I have not seen a single clean title car that was below 65K miles, most are around 90k miles, how safe is it to buy one with this much mileage (90k)? this is one of my biggest worries, the battery being the biggest issue here from my point of view.I have seen 2010 models with lower mileage and 2011 with a bit higher mileage (20k higher) going for the same price, which is better?Does a generic ebay bought OBDII scanner work with it to read all error codes and to reset?Any other things I must pay attention to? Of course all questions and prices are for clean title cars. Thanks guys.

I bought a used 2010 Ford Fusion recently. We have had a wicked winter in Illinois. The car has 87,000 miles on it or so. WHY am I only getting 28 mpg? I'm not an aggressive driver. My tires are good, the engine is good, I get regular oil changes. Any suggestions would be much appreciated!!!

Hello all, I am new to this forum but Wanted to share something with you that I just did to my 2010 Ford fusion Hybrid. I have been contemplating buying new aftermarket rims to replace the stock 17 inch silver rims my hybrid came with. I found some I liked but instead I opted to experiment to try and save some money first. I ordered a product called Plasti dip in flat black and then i ordered the glossifer as well. I removed my wheels 2 at a time and put that side of the car on jack stands. I thoroughly cleaned the rims with soap and water, then drive them really well. The temperature was 30F outside so I painted in my little shed with an infrared heater. I wore a re-breather mask too haha even with a window cracked to vent the air out. Never using this product before it took some time to get used to but it was pretty easy as it is very forgiving. I sprayed on 2 light coats , 2 medium coaots and 2 heavier coats. I used the infrared heater to quicken the drying time by holding it front of the rim, when the color went from gloss to flat then I knew it was dry (tacky) and ready for another coat. Getting in between all those spokes was a major PITA at first but once I got used to it, it still stunk just not as much haha. After 6 coats of black the rims were looking nice, I then began spraying on coats of the glossifier, 3 in total, it is much thinner and spray on very nicely. The thing I noticed is as you use more glossifier the rims become more shiny but it also turned them into a deeper gray. I then remounted the rims inserted the center caps (which I also sprayed and then just cut out the ford emblem. Here is what I left out. Plasti dip is a rubberized coating that can be applied to basically anything that does not get hot. It does dry but it still feels kinda rubbery. The best part about it is if you do not like what you have done or want a change or it started to peel, IT CAN BE REMOVED. It pulls off like a thin stretchy rubbery layer. (google images of people peeling it, they paint their entire cars in it. ) My advice is to do it in warm weather so you don't have to use a heater to cure the stuff on.. I am impatient haha. I used 3 cans of black and 1.5 cans of gloss Here are the Pictures: What wheel looked like originally 1st light coat 2nd coat 3rd coat 6th coat 3 coats of glossifer added peeling it off my tires final look on car with newly addded 18% tint closer look [

I know that the 2010 Hybrid, S, SE and SEL all come with or are available with a 2.5L 152 Cu. In. Inline 4. Is the engine in the Hybrid exactly the same as the one in the other 3 sub-models? Would I be able to use the same parts on my Hybrid that are available for the other types? Thanks!