shaaaane

I had a similar issue: I wasn't able to resolve it and ended up having to junk the car. Ford dealership would only replace the battery. I had a mobile mechanic come take a look and they said the fuel pump might have had an open in the circuit but they couldn't find it to fix it.

Update: I caulked around the pressure release valves on both sides of the trunk and water has stopped coming in through the left side. It's still coming in slightly on the right-hand side where the jack is stored but it's very minimal, trying to figure out if I didn't seal the pressure release valve perimeter fully or if it's something else. I've been able to consistently drive the car (checking if there's water in the trunk each time) but even in active rain it's been OK, no error messages. Unfortunately I got CEL w/ code P2450 yesterday which I've had before, also. Just happy I'm able to drive the car again!

Had a fun time going for a drive to a concert and about 10 minutes in I got the Stop Safely Now error as I'm in the turn lane for the freeway onramp. I was able to restart the car and get out of that lane and briefly drive into a side neighborhood and eventually back home w/ the car erroring every so often requiring me to restart it until it let me move. I was looking in the trunk and saw there's some water where the jack is stored as well as on the other side of the trunk in the same spot. I dried that up and went for a test drive without the error popping off during my test drive. I noticed the seal flap for both of the taillights was tucked into the car body for some reason as well as my rubber seal on the rear window was coming off so the rain was easily running down the car into those spots. I put the flaps back to normal and then added some silicone caulking since they weren't tight anymore. The water's not getting in from there anymore but some more still ended up in the trunk.. Trying to figure out where else the leak might be coming from at the moment. I pulled back the cloth covers so I could dry it out and it looks like this part may be getting hit by that standing water (sometimes an inch or more). Attached a photo w/ some more details. Curious if anyone knows what that part is? It's attached to the metal w/ 2 plastic clips. I'm wondering if I could move it elsewhere while I'm figuring out where the water's getting in and fixing that?

Update: Car's working! For now... I tried started the car to go for a test drive on a Saturday and it was running for 5-10 minutes or so as I gathered my things and right as I sat down to put it in reverse, I got the Stop Safely Now message... I gave up and scheduled a mobile mechanic to come help w/ the cooling system maybe do a flush/refill in case I did something wrong. Fast-forward 5 days, the car's been on the trickle charger the whole time. The mobile mechanic shows up, the car turns on and won't give the error message... He waited for 20 minutes or so, was able to see the old codes in the system but the car was cycling the engine on/off easily unlike the last couple of months. After waiting for a bit he took it around the block a few times w/ no issues, I did the same. The guys was amazing and just charged me half for the appt since he didn't have to do a whole lot but I appreciated the time. Since then I've taken it for some drives, one to a car wash where I got he Stop Safely Now message while in the wash, I'm thinking that was the car moving in Neutral freaking out the computer, once I got to the end I restarted the car just fine. Looking forward to driving it again and not having to shop for a new car. The ONLY thing that would have changed from the Saturday of the car not working for me, and the mechanic showing up, was the battery on Saturday shows <80% via the trickle charger, and when the mechanic was there (Thursday) it was fully charged. IDK why that'd play such a role, maybe the car's computer wanted more 12v battery power before the car could run w/o Stop Safely Now popping up? Either way, happy to have the car working after a few months and trying to remain cautiously optimistic!

I'm having a very similar issue. What happens when you go to turn the car on? For me the engine starts then shakes and shuts off, triggering the stop safely now message. I had FORscan hooked up and was monitoring the hybrid battery temp, it would be spiking when Stop Safely Now would come up. I've replaced the MECS pump and still having the same issue. Dealer would only replace the whole HVB instead of diagnosing anything else.

I tried hooking up my laptop and FORscan again after about a month and kept getting error code saying the hybrid battery was overheating. I was in the process of setting up a mobile install of a new hybrid battery thinking some of the battery cells may be dead or the whole pack might be dead and I don't see any easy way to give it some charge back. My brother recently was using FORscan for his C-Max and mentioned the monitoring tab, so I was able to set that up to monitor the BECM and noticed the engine would always shut off when the HV battery temp jumped up to 70* C. I could also see on this page that the HV capacity was sitting around 10%, not completely dead as I thought. I circled back to the MECS pump replacement I did before sending it to the dealership and realized I may not have bled/burped the coolant system enough when I filled it up the time the engine randomly ran for 10 minutes or so. I turned the release valve next to the coolant reservoir and started the car, some coolant spilled out but the engine was running a bit more before throwing the Stop Safely Now (SSN) message then it was business as usual. I continued trying to burp through that valve and finally got the engine to run a bit. While the car was in park I revved the engine and it was charging up the HV battery. Got it up to about 50% over several times I'd start the car and rev before it threw SSN. I saw the BECM Rmode Rebalance feature on FORScan and figured I'd give that a shot to resolve any potential issues w/ the battery, it ran for about an hour, got to 100% then reset back to 50%. At this point the dash went dark and the nav screen went dark, too, but FORscan was still running. It got to about 66% then the job failed, and at this point the 12v battery was dead. I've had it hooked up to a trickle charger the whole time but since the engine wasn't running the whole time during the rebalance (threw SSN near the start of the rebalance but it kept running which was new) I think it ran that low since the A/C had to be running the whole time, too. I got a portable battery jumper and now it's throwing SSN, yellow wrench, Check charging system, and Check Engine Light (I couldn't get any new codes from OBD scanner before the car would die) before turning off shortly after. Going to try letting the trickle charger do its work for a little bit before I try some more I think it got run too low. Hoping I didn't do damage trying to run that rebalancer and it not being able to finish... EDIT: Found a very helpful Reddit post that had the same errors I was now running into. Just needed to disconnect the 12v battery for a short while to reset the car, this cleared up the 3 new error messages but still experiencing the original issue of Stop Safely Now

Is there a way to get in contact w/ moderators to approve some replies/posts I've tried to do? Trying to get some help w/ my FFH 2010 but the posts can't be seen afaik. Thanks in advance!

Hi All, Been trying to research and troubleshoot this one myself for a couple months but my car hasn't been drivable since May. Prior to that I didn't use the car very much throughout the pandemic and working from home. When I needed to drive I'd use another car unless it wasn't available. I normally had it hooked up to a trickle charger but it was rotating between the FFH and an older 4runner I need hooked up to it as well. Since then, I've gone ahead and bought another trickle charger and it's been plugged in the whole time I've had it. About a week before the Stop Safely Now message appeared, I had to run some errands so I drove to 4 different places all a few miles between each other, and I had to jump the car w/ a battery-jumper each time I left a place. During driving there weren't any issues. I forgot to hook it up to the trickle charger after this. Fast-forward, I'm leaving to go to a movie and the car turns on, about 15 seconds later it gives the red triangle and Stop Safely Now message, the engine shuts off but the car's still on. It was about 80F or higher outside. I kept trying to start it, getting the same message just seeing if it'd let me drive a little bit. After about 10 minutes it finally lets me, I go to drive, right as I'm leaving the driveway the red triangle comes back and I can't go anywhere. I'm in the road a little bit so I keep trying to turn it back on to back it into the driveway but I can't get anything to work. My brother came over and helped me push the car down the street, I parked it on the street for the moment and went to the movie. The next day I came to try the car some more, it won't even react to me turning the key anymore. 12v battery is dead at this point. I had a tow truck move it back into my driveway and using a different car, got another battery from Les Schwab and replaced it. The car turns on now, but just continues to give the Stop Safely Now message immediately after the car turns on, the engine shakes quite a bit, before the message goes off turning it off. The car is "on" but not drivable. I can hang out in it a bit and hear the hybrid fan running in the trunk area. I pulled some codes and found some threads mentioned the MECS pump, ordered one on Amazon, got the coolant replacement stuff and jacked my car, drained the coolant, replaced the pump. I went to refill the coolant and the car's still giving the same behavior, I can't get the coolant to run through the new pump (yay...). At this point I gave up, had the car towed to the nearest dealership. They had to wait a few days before taking a look but called and said the hybrid battery needs to be replaced for $8k. They said it may just be some cabling for the hybrid battery but taking apart the car to replace that would be $2k+. I got the notes from the technician: IDS HOOK-UP, KOEO AND KOER TESTS. RETRIEVE CODES. MANY. THE BIG HITTERS WERE BATTERY PACK OVERTEMP CODES. CHECKED OASIS. UPDATED THE BECM TO SEE IF THE NEW SOFTWARE WOULD FIX THE ISSUE. NO. MONITOR PIDS AND THE BATTERY PACK TEMP SENSOR SAYS IT IS 185 DEGREES. SHOULD BE ABOUT 75-90 DEGREES. CAN HEAR FANS RUNNING. WOULD NEED TO TOW IN THE CAR AND REMOVED THE BECM AND HIGH CURRENT FUSE/RELAY BOX TO ACCESS THE CONNECTOR TO CHECK TEMP SENSOR TO SEE IF IT IS THE SENSOR OR THE MODULE. IF IT IS THE SENSOR IT IS ONLY SERVICED WITH THE ENTIRE BATTERY PACK. THERE IS ALSO A CODE FOR BRAKE VACUUM SUPPLY, WHICH IS NORMALLY CAUSE BY A CHECK VALVE IN THE TUBE ASSEMBLY FOR THE VACUUM PUMP, BUT SINCE THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING CANNOT DAIG THAT AT THIS TIME. This was the quote from the dealership without any confidence this would fully resolve my problems with the car.. SUGGESTED SERVICES Job Quote DRIVEABILITY 6,405.39 Qty Part Number Part Description Price Ext Price 1.00 AE5Z-10B759-E BATTERY 4797.99 4797.99 Misc Code Misc Description Ext Price C2 SHOP SUPPLIES 50.00 C1 ENVIRONMENTAL CHARGE 18.50 Labor Hrs 925.00 Parts 4797.99 Misc 68.50 Tax 613.90 Total 6405.39 Job Quote NO START CUSTOMER REQUESTS CAR CHECKED FOR NO START 1,215.21 Qty Part Number Part Description Price Ext Price 1.00 AE5Z-10C666-A CONNECTOR 576.99 576.99 Misc Code Misc Description Ext Price C2 SHOP SUPPLIES 50.00 C1 ENVIRONMENTAL CHARGE 9.25 Labor Hrs 462.50 Parts 576.99 Misc 59.25 Tax 116.47 Total 1215.21 Suggested Services Total $ 7620.60 Total Estimate $ 7974.87 I gave it some time and decided this was too much to spend on a car worth <$2k at this point.. The car was at the dealership for about a month while they did a recall I was behind on for the airbags and just lack of communication. I ended up getting it towed back from the dealership. When the tow truck driver arrived at the house I asked if he could face the car towards the house so I could work on it more easily. He said no problem, but dropped the car up the street to try and drive it in... not knowing it didn't turn on last I had seen it. He apparently got it to start but before he could get up the driveway someone was walking their dogs and he had to stop. Then he started getting the Stop Safely Now message over and over. The tow-truck driver said that he was able to start/drive the car for easier towing at the dealership. He just kept retrying to start the car and somehow it turned on enough, he gunned it for the driveway and got it to where it needed to go (whew!). Since then, I've tried hooking up my laptop w/ FORScan to troubleshoot/fix this myself. I have it constantly plugged into a trickle charger. About a week after I had it back at the house, I went to troubleshoot and the car turned on for a bit without any error messages. I remembered the MECS pump and the coolant I wasn't able to circulate and immediately began refilling that. It was about 80F give or take a few degrees this day, if that helps. The car ran for about 10 minutes, engine got up to temperature, I was able to refill the coolant reservoir until it stopped going down anymore. I tried revving the engine a bit to help the coolant go through. After the 10 minutes it gave Stop Safely Now, again. The engine shut off. Since then, I haven't been able to recreate that, regardless of time of day or outside temperature. I've setup FORScan to try and reset the DTC or get more information and at this point I'm just getting this: ===BECM DTC P0B25:00-28=== Code: P0B25 - Hybrid/EV Battery A Voltage Low Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Battery Energy Control Module Freeze Frame : -REALTIME: 354003797 s - Total time ECU has been active ===END BECM DTC P0B25:00-28=== ===BECM DTC P0A7E:00-AF=== Code: P0A7E - Hybrid/EV Battery Pack A Over Temperature Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is On for this DTC Module: Battery Energy Control Module Freeze Frame : -REALTIME: 354003793 s - Total time ECU has been active ===END BECM DTC P0A7E:00-AF=== ===TCM DTC P0562:04-28=== Code: P0562 - System Voltage Low Additional Fault Symptom: - System Internal Failures Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Transmission Control Module Freeze Frame : -REALTIME: 354005719 s - Total time ECU has been active -TOT_DIST: 0.0 km - Total Vehicle Distance -MAINPCM_V: 12.00 V - Control Module Voltage -OUTDR_TMP: -40 °C - Outdoor Air Temperature -G_INV_V: 8.80 V - Generator Inverter Voltage -TFT: 19 °C - Transmission Fluid Temperature -M_PHTMP: 0 °C - Motor Inverter Phase Temperature -MCLTEMP: 20 °C - Motor Coil Temperature -G_PHTMP: 0 °C - Generator Inverter Phase Temperature -GCLTEMP: 19 °C - Generator Coil Temperature -M_SPEED: -32768 1/min - Motor Speed -G_SPEED: -32768 1/min - Generator Speed -RPM: 0 1/min - Engine Revolutions Per Minute -TQ_DSD: 0.0 Nm - Desired Total Torque -MTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Motor Torque Command -GTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Generator Torque Command -PRNDL_T: P - Shift Position -HV_INTLOCK: Closed - High Voltage Interlock -G_SDN_C: Shutdown - Generator Shutdown From Powertrain Control Module -G_SDN_B: Shutdown - Generator Shutdown From Vehicle System Control -FUELCUT: Not ShutDwn - Fuel Cut-off Signal -CONTACT: Open - Contactor Status -ABS Active: Normal - Antilock braking system -TCM_CAU: Off - Transmission Control Module Caution -TCM_HAZ: Off - Transmission Control Module Hazard Warning -MECT: 19 °C - Motor Electronics Coolant Temperature ===END TCM DTC P0562:04-28=== ===TCM DTC U0100:87-28=== Code: U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM A Additional Fault Symptom: - Missing Message Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Transmission Control Module Freeze Frame : -REALTIME: 355903347 s - Total time ECU has been active -TOT_DIST: 249368.0 km - Total Vehicle Distance -MAINPCM_V: 12.25 V - Control Module Voltage -OUTDR_TMP: -40 °C - Outdoor Air Temperature -G_INV_V: 0.00 V - Generator Inverter Voltage -TFT: 19 °C - Transmission Fluid Temperature -M_PHTMP: 19 °C - Motor Inverter Phase Temperature -MCLTEMP: 19 °C - Motor Coil Temperature -G_PHTMP: 19 °C - Generator Inverter Phase Temperature -GCLTEMP: 19 °C - Generator Coil Temperature -M_SPEED: 0 1/min - Motor Speed -G_SPEED: 0 1/min - Generator Speed -RPM: 0 1/min - Engine Revolutions Per Minute -TQ_DSD: 0.0 Nm - Desired Total Torque -MTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Motor Torque Command -GTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Generator Torque Command -PRNDL_T: N - Shift Position -HV_INTLOCK: Closed - High Voltage Interlock -G_SDN_C: Shutdown - Generator Shutdown From Powertrain Control Module -G_SDN_B: Not ShutDwn - Generator Shutdown From Vehicle System Control -FUELCUT: Not ShutDwn - Fuel Cut-off Signal -CONTACT: Open - Contactor Status -ABS Active: Normal - Antilock braking system -TCM_CAU: Off - Transmission Control Module Caution -TCM_HAZ: Off - Transmission Control Module Hazard Warning -MECT: 0 °C - Motor Electronics Coolant Temperature ===END TCM DTC U0100:87-28=== ===TCM DTC P1A03:38-28=== Code: P1A03 - Drive Motor A Shutdown Circuit Additional Fault Symptom: - Signal Frequency Incorrect Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Transmission Control Module Freeze Frame : -REALTIME: 355903347 s - Total time ECU has been active -TOT_DIST: 249368.0 km - Total Vehicle Distance -MAINPCM_V: 12.50 V - Control Module Voltage -OUTDR_TMP: -40 °C - Outdoor Air Temperature -G_INV_V: 0.00 V - Generator Inverter Voltage -TFT: 19 °C - Transmission Fluid Temperature -M_PHTMP: 19 °C - Motor Inverter Phase Temperature -MCLTEMP: 19 °C - Motor Coil Temperature -G_PHTMP: 19 °C - Generator Inverter Phase Temperature -GCLTEMP: 19 °C - Generator Coil Temperature -M_SPEED: 0 1/min - Motor Speed -G_SPEED: 0 1/min - Generator Speed -RPM: 0 1/min - Engine Revolutions Per Minute -TQ_DSD: 0.0 Nm - Desired Total Torque -MTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Motor Torque Command -GTQ_CMD: 0.0 Nm - Generator Torque Command -PRNDL_T: N - Shift Position -HV_INTLOCK: Closed - High Voltage Interlock -G_SDN_C: Shutdown - Generator Shutdown From Powertrain Control Module -G_SDN_B: Not ShutDwn - Generator Shutdown From Vehicle System Control -FUELCUT: Not ShutDwn - Fuel Cut-off Signal -CONTACT: Open - Contactor Status -ABS Active: Normal - Antilock braking system -TCM_CAU: Off - Transmission Control Module Caution -TCM_HAZ: Off - Transmission Control Module Hazard Warning -MECT: 0 °C - Motor Electronics Coolant Temperature ===END TCM DTC P1A03:38-28=== ===PCM DTC P1000:00-2B=== Code: P1000 - OBD Systems Readiness Test Not Complete Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module ===END PCM DTC P1000:00-2B=== ===PCM DTC P1A10:00-2B=== Code: P1A10 - Hybrid Powertrain Control Module - Battery Disabled Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Powertrain Control Module ===END PCM DTC P1A10:00-2B=== ===OBDII DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: On Board Diagnostic II ===END OBDII DTC None=== ===APIM DTC U0100:00-2B=== Code: U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM A Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Accessory Protocol Interface Module ===END APIM DTC U0100:00-2B=== ===ACCM DTC P0AFA:16-2A=== Code: P0AFA - Hybrid/EV Battery System Voltage Low Additional Fault Symptom: - Circuit Voltage Below Threshold Status: - DTC Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Air Conditioning Control Module Freeze Frame : -GLOBTIM: 354003791 s - Global real time -TOTDIST: 249368.0 km - Total Distance -MAINECUV: 12.25 V - Main ECU voltage supply -OUTTMP: 20 °C - External Temperature From Sensor -POWER_MODE: Running - Power Mode Status -AC_CIC: 2.20 A - Electric A/C Compressor Input Current -ACCM_CHVS: 6.00 V - Electric A/C Compressor High Voltage Supply -ACCM_ITEMP: 21 °C - Compressor Internal Power Device Temperature ===END ACCM DTC P0AFA:16-2A=== ===OCS DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Occupant Classification System Module ===END OCS DTC None=== ===ABS DTC C1018:00-28=== Code: C1018 - Regenerative Braking Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Antilock braking system Freeze Frame : -GLOBTIM: 357743965 s - Global real time -TOTDIST: 249368.0 km - Total Distance -MAINECUV: 11.25 V - Main ECU voltage supply -OUTTMP: -10 °C - External Temperature From Sensor -ABS: Inactive - ABS -AYC: Inactive - AYC -BTCS: Inactive - BTCS -201D -HDC: Inactive - HDC -RSC: Inactive - RSC -BTC: Inactive - BTC -VAC_BST_ST: Inactive - Active Vacuum Booster State -BST_REL_SW: Inactive - Booster Release Switch State -HYD_PMP_ST: Inactive - Hydraulic Pump State -VPWR_ABS: 11.10 V - Module supply voltage -VSS: 0.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed ===END ABS DTC C1018:00-28=== ===ABS DTC U0100:00-28=== Code: U0100 - Lost Communication With ECM/PCM A Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC Module: Antilock braking system Freeze Frame : -GLOBTIM: 357743965 s - Global real time -TOTDIST: 249368.0 km - Total Distance -MAINECUV: 11.25 V - Main ECU voltage supply -OUTTMP: -10 °C - External Temperature From Sensor -ABS: Inactive - ABS -AYC: Inactive - AYC -BTCS: Inactive - BTCS -201D -HDC: Inactive - HDC -RSC: Inactive - RSC -BTC: Inactive - BTC -VAC_BST_ST: Inactive - Active Vacuum Booster State -BST_REL_SW: Inactive - Booster Release Switch State -HYD_PMP_ST: Inactive - Hydraulic Pump State -VPWR_ABS: 11.10 V - Module supply voltage -VSS: 0.0 km/h - Vehicle Speed ===END ABS DTC U0100:00-28=== ===DCDC DTC P0AFA:16-68=== Code: P0AFA - Hybrid/EV Battery System Voltage Low Additional Fault Symptom: - Circuit Voltage Below Threshold Status: - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request - Malfunction Indicator Lamp is Off for this DTC - Test not complete Module: DC to DC Converter Control Module ===END DCDC DTC P0AFA:16-68=== ===RCM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Restraint Control Module ===END RCM DTC None=== ===PSCM DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Power Steering Control Module ===END PSCM DTC None=== ===IPC DTC None=== Successful DTC reading, no error codes found Module: Instrument Panel Control Module ===END IPC DTC None=== This video seems to be the closest I can find to the situation I'm in, but I can't even get the car to run/drive like they were able to in the video Looking for some tips/help to troubleshoot or understand what's going wrong. Maybe how to reset it more than I have already so it can test the cooling system for the hybrid battery temperature being high? Thanks in advance to anyone who reads/posts!

How did you resolve the MECS pump giving an error? I replaced mine, got the engine to run enough to re-fill the coolant, and it's still freaking out w/ the same codes.

I'm having this same issue, I can't get the car out of the driveway without the Stop Safely Now message popping up and disabling the car. I replaced this pump myself but couldn't get the car to start. I had it towed to a Ford dealership and they would only recommend replacing the whole hybrid battery for $8k.. too much for me on this car so I had the car towed back. The tow driver was luckily able to start the car enough to move it for easier towing/dropoff but it quickly showed Stop Safely Now and disabled the engine shortly after. I let the car sit a week or so and went to do some troubleshooting and the car actually started and ran for at least 5 minutes. I was able to refill the coolant while it ran and got to temp but then it went back to shutting down right after starting. Do you know if the local garage who replaced this for you did any specific steps to get the new pump/coolant to get rid of the Stop Safely Now issue? I've tried hooking up the car to FORscan but it's having problems and won't let me clear the DTC to see if that'll help the car get past this. I'll keep trying that in the meantime to see if I have any luck. Even if I can get the car to start I'm hesitant to drive it anywhere to test it out for fear it'll get stranded somewhere and I'll have to tow it even more.

Any luck fixing this? I've noticed the water pooling by the jack and same on the other side. Tried hosing down the car to see if I could watch for leaks but no luck.