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What I'm hearing is almost certainly coming from wheels or tires. I'd bet Tires. I wish there was some instrumentation to monitor vibration levels on the wheels Or maybe just vivbrations detected at each cormer of the car, which could hint at the cause by which was higher/lower. Super neat if it would record the velocity in real time, throttle position, along with the vibration dfata, so you could tell if it rose/fell with rpms or with speed over ground

LOL Definitely not Ford. Not a chance. OEMs have no interest in owner community and self help. Are you okay?

Maybe just luck. probably unrelated, but I took mine out, fliped it over a few times to measure it and then shook it quite a bit, and put it back in, charged it with an external charger. I also stopped using the 3rd party EVSE and went to only the ford one, and in the last couple weeks since jumping through those hoops it hasn't "died" on me again. IT does still show the message of shame on the APIM and the accessory outlets don't stay on very long. so I think I rejuvinated it a little but its mostly still screwed. I think the body shop left the trunk open over a weekend or something and killed it when they had it.

I sometimes hear a very loud vibration while accelerating. I'd say it never happens under 40mph. It disappears when letting off the accelerator. And I think flooring the accelerator seems to also end the vibration. If I had to guess there's a certain range of toroidal tension in the rubber of the tires that changes the resonant frequency. When they're applying a certain "g load" they are subject to vibration. If you maintain your speed the vibration stops. I suppose a bearing could also cause it. Is there a good tool or method to identify with certain the source of such a vibration? If nothing else I'd like to prove what corner its coming from consistently, and then prove it again after the next tire rotation. When it happens it's so loud. and I'm never sitting in the center of the car. So it's hard for me to know where its coming from. but it happens when no other cars are nearby, and it I'm very sure it's not the rumble strips on the road. pavement doesn't look particularly bad. it's so hard to predict where it happens I don't think its any single area of pavement can reliably reproduce it. It makes me cringe each time though.

@meyersnole can you check on the energi forum> i see error EX6 when I try to PM on there and can not post to new or old threads

I haven't put a new 12v battery in it. But I did change the evse I was using and it's behaving now. I had a cheap Amazon one bolted to the ceiling for three years and that's the one the 12v was dying on. Instead I've been using the Ford once the last few days and no problems... I wonder if a bug crawled into the one on the ceiling.... It's too bad there not a log I can review to see why the car wasn't shutting down all it's computers.,.. Also is the 12v charging routine of the evse supposed to be 14 volts, like when the ignition is on? Or some lower voltage?

I have some more detail to offer you. someone found an AGM battery that "fit perfectly" at Sams: https://www.fordfusionenergiforum.com/topic/4751-2017-fusion-energi-dead-battery-issues/page/2/#comments 75DTAGM is the model number so maybe you can find it via another seller. googling it looks like Duracell is the brand! Also, look for a -R version or some other variation for reversed terminals, so they're reachable through that stupid door flap in the trunk. I don't like the idea of having the terminals facing the metal wall of the car for several reasons. many battery brands offer "reversed termninal directions" on their batteries because cars are weird and inconsistent.

I gather the "form factor" is called series 90. And the pictures I took you can see all the dimensions x y and z, and the dimensions of the flange that holds it in. I believe the battery has a flange on all four sides at its bottom. But the tray only holds the two small sides on the front and back of the car. It might be possible to pass a ratchet strap under the tray. A few laps of that, should be just as strong as the hold down clamp from Ford. Ford designed it with a nylon strap that goes over the battery and bolts closed. This strap is loose and I'm guessing it's just some sort of backup. It is mostly held in place by a wedge clamp that presses down into the flange of the battery. I would also recommend you take a look and forscan and see what charge profiles the car supports. Changing battery chemistry might be a bad idea if you cannot adjust the charger to match it.

I'm going to have to build something to test idle current. Or clip a dmm to the frame somewhere and to the negative battery terminal and disconnect the frame from the battery at the same time. Have any pics of the tray you made? Sounds like quite a project since it has to hold up to vibration and potentially keep a 50 lb block of lead from becoming a projectile in a crash. I thought for sure I would have to find an AGM matching the exact geometry of my OEM battery so I took some photos today. Enjoy: https://photos.app.goo.gl/GhVdVgkLRhmiTURE9

2018 when the car was built. Why would a dead battery only sink too low to turn on the car when I leave the car plugged IN to the evse? If it's NOT plugged in to the evse (charger), then it's floating at 12.9v, less than 0.1 amps drawn. One would expect a charger to add energy not remove it. It sounds like some computer is staying on after charging is complete and using the 12v battery.

I would love to continuously data log certain attributes of my car while it's running, to a text file or sqlite database under my control. It would be great for instance to know exactly what my odometer was reading at a specific time in the past, say, when I filled up my tank! I have experienced programming and am a daily Linux user. But I wouldn't call myself a car mechanic exactly. I have an obd link MX Plus that I can read from my phone super conveniently and see tire pressures, indoor outdoor temps, 12 volt battery voltage, speed, and odometer. I've got an obd link ex ( the wired USB version) that I use out of an abundance of caution when I program with forscan. My pure wet dream would be a raspberry pi mini computer inside then obdlink dongle with a battery so it can shut down safelys few minutes after the car is off, but I don't imagine that exists. In lieu of that I got an OBD2 splitter and I could in theory use the ex and the normal raspberry pi and just zip tie it somewhere under the dash. I'm a little lost though when it comes to writing my own software to use the OBDLink EX. Not only do I want to dataalog. But I would also really like to be able to sniff the bus and replay commands like the steering wheel track forward and back button move volume up and down. I would love if my raspberry pi could detect when driver one or two memory recall buttons are pressed and then send commands on the bus to address heating cooling and radio. Maybe even send commands to adjust the passenger seat position! I would even like to tap into the evse connector's ungrounded conductors and splice in a small USB power supply for the pi so it's powered from mains at home and I can then log in from my living room any time. Does anyone here do anything close to this!

My car went to the shop a month ago for a deer collision. And when I got it back I started seeing this message on the apim screen about shutting down to preserve battery. I also noticed that my accessory outlets which used to stay on for a long time no longer did. Now several several times since the body shop I have come out to my car in the morning and found it completely dead. Just today the 12 volt battery measured 1.6 volts! It seems to charge back to 12 at least with an external charger. But this should not be happening. My understanding is that after the Hvb is topped off it should trickle charge the 12 volt battery until the end of time. But I'm wondering if some sort of fuse is blown and instead of charging at 12 volt battery, some module is staying active and draining it. I'm reluctant to buy a new battery until I know what's draining it. I don't want to damage a new one. But when I do buy a new one is it worth trying to find an AGM? An excide yellowtop even? I loved having one of those in my prius. I installed a victron SmartShunt current shunt between the negative battery terminal and the chassis to measure phantom current draw and so far I haven't caught it sipping more than 100 ma. I have seen tens of amps even a peak to 100 amps, going into the battery immediately after startup. And I've seen the battery get as low as 9.5 volts. Though after giving it a full charge with an external 12 volt charger it seems to stay above 11.5. Is there a serious risk that a bad 12 battery could damage the back or dc-to-dc converter by eating up to much current? Or are those dc-to-dc converters designed to survive a dead short, fused to prevent damage? I think the biggest current draw while everything was off was the damn incandescent trunk light, so I disconnected that! Ought to put a switch on it and swap to led. Here's what my voltage/current do when parked and charging. https://ibb.co/DQNqsD1

Murphy, the energi forum needs more help! The Energi forum is broken. Specifically the "compose message body" text boxes for starting a new topic or replying to an existing one or sending a direct message are shrunk vertically to the point you cannot see any text inside of the boxes. They do not seem to accept any text entered and thus a message cannot be sent. My username there is ffe. I verified this with two different browsers on PC and my phone's browser which I'm using successfully on the non-energy hybrid forum right now. If I had to guess it's some sort of CSS problem. It might be prudent have an email address posted somewhere for the admins in case a problem like this affected the other forums.

Thanks Waldo, that is a good explanation. So if 50hp is the sweetspot and I only need 40 to drive, the battery can store up that extra 10 until it's full then shut off the ice and run off battery until the battery is low, then repeat the cycle? That's pretty slick and a great reason to have a hybrid. But I recognize there are conversion losses in charging and discharging, so I'd prefer to drive at a speed that consumes 50hp if that's legal. Or at least I'd sure like to know what that speed is and/or how to calculate it. In my last hybrid there was a lot of talk of "Pulse and Glide driving", and I think I used it to good effect a few times on long drives. accelerating to make full use of the ICE, then idling the hybrid throttle until it was as close to neutral on the accelerating side of the line as I could get it. So basically only using the ICE 1/4 to 1/5 of the time, at the cost of widely varying speeds. It could piss off whoever's behind me, BAD. So I would only do it when I was alone on the highway. Come to think of it that's using the kinetic energy of the vehicle the same way as the battery scheme above. I heard of Brake Thermal Efficiency. Is that the same as BSFC? This diagram isn't for our car, but I'd LOVE to find one for Ford's 2L I-4 Atkinson. NOTICE: THE ABOVE GRAPH IS FOR SOME TOYOTA, NOT A FUSION. SHOWN FOR EXAMPLE OF WHAT I'M SEARCHING FOR ONLY What's the proper part number or model name for the ICE in a 2018 Energi?

On another thread, I asked if anyone knew for sure if Ford's The 2018 Ford Convenience cable (Model: Type 4X) could handle 240VAC and act as a Level 2 EVSE in spite of it being clearly labeled 120V (thus "clearly" being only a Level 1 EVSE) I got the wild idea because the plastic casement bears a shocking resemblance to a Clipper Creek AmazingE model that takes 240VAC: And in my research I found a few EVSEs I could buy on Amazon that supposedly were dual Level1 and Level2 just by using an included adapter. I don't believe in magic... I suspected that the circuit board inside both was the same, and thus the circuit board was okay accepting a range of input voltages. It appears that I was correct. I wanted to document my findings for others, so I'm making this thread. I made an adapter with an L-L-G NEMA L6-30 plug and a L-N-G 5-20 receptacle. I plugged the adapter into 208v circuit and plugged a Ford model 4X EVSE in to the adapter. It lit up normaly, and did not explode or exhibit any malfunction. The Green Ready Light came on. I have not charged the Fusion from it on a higher than 120v voltage yet, but I expect it will work fine. I will have 240v at home not 208v, but the outlet isn't ready yet in the garage. I'll certainly check for magic smoke on 240v before using it to charge the car. In my installation I will be putting a NEMA 6-20 duplex outlet next to a NEMA 5-20 outlet in the garage BOTH wired for 240VAC. The 5-20 could be in violation of electrical code but clearly marked. I think others have found adapters from a 5-15 appliance to a 6-15 outlet, but I have yet to be able to source one of those. To gain actual code compliance in my case, the actual receptacle installed in the structure house will be a L14-30R, from which a pendant appliance of my own design will hang which has individually breakered 20 amp outlets. Another plus to a pendant like this is I'll have some dedicated 20A outlets in the middle of my garage ready for power tools, air compressor, space heater, etc. Here's some closeups of the FoMoCo EVSE that I verified did not smoke at 208v: Of course, I make no guarantees. This forum makes no guarantees, and neither I nor the forum recommend using a por old EVSE in any manner other than now the nude virgins at ford blessed it to be used. Your Mileage May Vary.