Frank F

I could see patrol vehicle a much better fit. Pursuit? Not so much.

If it's a version of the Duratec engine family, it'll have a chain. Variable intake valve timing, fixed exhaust valve timing. Port injection.

I would suggest filing a complaint with the BBB and the NHTSA and investigate lemon laws for your state. I've never heard of shock absorbers nor struts wearing out.

Is this an NHTSA recall? What happens; car fires? Or loss of seat belt tension in an accident?

Good idea. I'd trade it in on something much simpler. Most certainly not a hybrid of any manufacturer. And try to find a vehicle with as little electronics as possible. You may have to go used with say a circa 2000 Ford Escort with manual windows, manual door locks, no air conditioning.

So the AC compressor has no clutch? Since it's variable speed, it wouldn't need one would it? Because with clutches they are only engaged or disengaged, and when engaged spinning the compressor at a speed proportional to engine speed. So we won't hear the distinctive clutch engaging / disengaging click. Since the engine isn't needed to power the compressor, is it still mounted in the "front belt plane"? It wouldn't need to be - no belt turning the compressor. Although for historical reasons I could see it still mounted there, but most certainly doesn't need to be.

How accurate is the TPMS? I inflate to 37 psi according to my Accu-Gage, monitor system shows 40 to 42 psi.

ebay would be a good place to search. Don't know if all Fusions use the same diameter tire from 17" through 19", but should be able to find one for a non-hybrid with 17" OEM wheels. Or 18" OEM, or whatever size you have. If going that far, you might as well get an ebay OEM wheel and tire that matches yours. Then go with a 5 tire rotation schedule.

Does it erase / reset all the trip 1 data, or just the distance? I.e. does it still keep computing just with an incorrect distance displayed?

Sounds like the 2017 Ford Fusion Sports are having a rash of these problems.

Thanks men. I got it. Went out with tablet and Ford owner site procedure listed, didn't work. Tried it 3 times, no go. Went back to owner's manual, and maybe I was trying to be too precise with the "5 seconds" by trying to remove at precisely 5 seconds. So I figured I'd wait at least 7 seconds. Put the 3rd one in and finally it took. And yes, the missing 2 successive push start presses are indeed needed at the end. Once I did all that, with the 3rd fob laying in the slot, the start button was flashing rapidly, and I believe the last step is to press the 3rd remote unlock button. The start button quit flashing, and in the left hand cluster display it said "programmed successfully" -- something like that. All 3 now work.

Even funnier for 2017, completely different steps on https://owner.ford.com/how-tos/vehicle-features/locks-and-security/how-to-program-your-intelligent-access-key.html, than in the owner's manual: Before you startThere are a few things you should do before starting step 1: Read the locks and security information in your owner’s manual.Have two previously programmed Intelligent Access keys inside the vehicle and your unprogrammed Intelligent Access key readily available.Put the new unprogrammed Intelligent Access key in the center console pocket. Press the driver or passenger power door unlock control three times. Press and release the brake pedal once. Press the driver or passenger power door lock control three times. Press and release the brake pedal once. The indicator on the Start/Stop button should begin to flash quickly, indicating that the programming mode has been entered and two programmed Intelligent Access keys have been detected in the vehicle. Within one minute, press the Start/Stop button. A message will be displayed on the message center indicating that the new Intelligent Access key was programmed. Remove the Intelligent Access key from the center console pocket and press the unlock control on the newly programmed Intelligent Access keys to exit the programming mode. Verify that the new Intelligent Access key’s remote entry functions operate by pressing lock, then unlock, and then starting the vehicle. Your new Intelligent Access key is ready to use.

I just spent 40 minutes trying this on my 2017 -- programming a 3rd key. Still no mention in the 2017 owner's manual about the "2nd start button press on the last step." Regardless, it didn't matter in my case. I don't think the 2nd press is necessary. Surely they would have corrected the manual by now. Is it safe to assume that only two remotes will ever be active at once? I'll go to the dealer, but I'm sure they won't be able to program a 3rd key. I think Ford engineers purposely made the sequence so convoluted that few humans could ever do it. The time frames are ridiculous. There's absolutely no reason why the software needs such timing. There's a sequence, do the sequence (without the silly timings), let the software keep track of the sequence, same result whether it takes a user 20 seconds or 1 minute to complete. And yes put a timeout for the whole process if necessary so the engineers can advertise "real time programming" (not even close) on their resumes.

From the owner's manual: DIGITAL RADIONote: HD Radio broadcasts are not available in all markets. HD Radio technology is the digital evolution of analog AM/FM radio. Your system has a special receiver that allows it to receive digital broadcasts (where available) in addition to the analog broadcasts, it already receives. So it says. I've never paid attention...

I haven't even tried looking, but I'm going to assume my 2017 SE does not have HD radio. How can one tell if one has such?

How many hybrid members have we in the 200k club?

So if we know the error / uncertainty range, then we could more accurately say something like "44.4 mpg ± 4.4 mpg" (10% inaccuracy), or "44.4 mpg ± 0.4 mpg" (1% inaccuracy). I, like everyone else here am not buying the "we have absolutely no idea if your hybrid is getting better fuel economy than that Ford GT right next to you." -- not that anyone is implying it's that severe of "guessing." From everything I've read on this site, the mpg postings from odometer and fuel receipts appear to be reasonable.

I'm not following your logic. Are you saying the vehicle odometers and the gasoline pumps also "guess" at quantities? Or are you implying there's error in the measured quantities? If so, I'll assume you too are "guessing" at how much error. I get the impression you're saying "We don't have any idea what fuel economy we are getting. It can say 44.7, but it could be 12, it could be 78, because all we are doing is guessing."

Yes, good point. There's always going to be some loss on conversion of energy which (I hope) the 30% takes into consideration. Did I just confuse myself and everyone else? <Edit this yet again :)> I believe you're saying that the maximum amount of braking due to regenerative is 30%. And when we hit those 100% marks, 30% of the braking is regenerative, 70% hydraulic. So a 50% braking score would be 15% regenerative, 85% hydraulic.

Excellent explanation. Thank you.

On the few times I get 100% recovered energy when braking, does that mean the hydraulic brakes were not applied at all? I.e. 100% of the braking is regenerative; pads didn't touch rotors? Likewise, is the percentage linear in that 75% recovered energy means 75% of the braking was regenerative, 25% hydraulic?

These are calculated from the pump receipt. I.e miles / fuel quantity. I haven't been paying too much attention to the vehicle's display at fill-up time, although, the most recent (bottom) one, the vehicle said 47.1 mpg average. I believe the two in the 40.x range were displaying >=45 mpg on vehicle display.

After 5 fillups: Distance - Average: 340 @ 45,4 210 @ 50.8 340 @ 40.7 336 @ 40.3 485 @ 47.4 For a weighted average (if my arithmetic is correct) of about 44.7. I suspect the 50.8 was a case of not filling the tank enough. Since the third fill, I've been filling on slowest automatic pump setting, waiting till shut off, then waiting about 4 seconds, filling with hand, second shutoff, wait about 4 seconds, filling with hand, and getting 3rd shutoff.

Yes, thank you. I do remember seeing the DRL enable/disable option.

Ahh, thanks. I'll have to look again. Yes, I have the automatic headlamps on / off set to "auto" (furthest right on switch) and I agree they work great. (On my Focus too :)). Now that I re-read my original post, I fubarred it. I should have said "automatic high beams." But now thinking I do not have such an option on the SE. So I may be confused completely and will re-visit the menus again. I may have been wanting automatic high beams so badly, that I am mis-reading the menu options and thinking it says "automatic high beams." Sorry about that.