Sky14FFH

Welcome to the forum. Try the CMAX forum. It might be more active. https://fordcmaxhybridforum.com/ I think they share the same engine and transmissions. Since you obviously have the skills you can always try pick your own junkyards junkyarddog.com Let us know how it goes. What do you think caused the problem? 2018 isn't that old but 195k is a lot of miles for a 5 year old car. 39,000 miles a year, yikes.

Oh no I am so sorry to read of that. There was no way to park it in high ground huh? Hope your insurance helps you. Crazy how the west side of Florida got hammered the most. How many miles did you have? Here's a nice white one that was listed before the hurricane. https://tampa.craigslist.org/psc/ctd/d/land-lakes-2018-ford-fusion-hybrid/7787933156.html

Yes you can put the car into brake service or maintenance mode. Turn the key to accessories but don't turn the car on. Put the transmission in neutral> hold the accelerator pedal down all the way.> then hold the parking brake button down.> then turn the key off and then back on>then put the transmission in park and take the key out. (It is like an old video game cheat code) Set brakes into maintenance mode To undo it follow this. How to exit brake maintenance mode. Brake Maintenance mode with a push button start Also, Autozone has a brake caliper loaner tool which you can borrow for free with refundable deposit to compress the caliper pistons. https://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/loaner-disc-brake-caliper-tool/p/oemtools-front-and-rear-disc-brake-pad-spreader-set/298604_0_0 I did my rear brake pads myself and it was the easiest brake job I ever did. You'll also notice the shocks and the springs are separate on the rear too making replacing them easy as well. I am happy Ford keeps some things simple.

Oh it always had a corporate mediated experience vibe to it, unlike a former car website I was on where people were hacking the temperature sensors to get more power out of the car. There was very little tweaking allowed on this site, Paul T. Jones was probably the best "hot rodder" here who could improve his fuel economy the most. He was constantly shouted down by the engineer brains and eventually chased out, which sucks big time. Compared to my old car which I did loads of home modifications on (and it is still running well I might say - never burnt down like the guys who had no clue at the dealership 20 years ago) I've done very little on the FFH outside of make a polycarbonate grill block and do a couple maintenance things myself: oil, brakes, air filter, cabin air filter, repair glove box gear from junk yard parts.

Yeah I'd get that hub checked. For now jack up the corner it is coming from and check the movement of the wheel with your hands, first right and left then top and bottom. Then check underneath see if there is any play in the ball joint.

Did you get rid of your CMax?

Who started these forums? Was it Ford or are they independent? Sure hope we don't lose them.

Many of us have been struggling to identify the vibration coming from the glovebox/right passenger door area. It's not a loud vibration though, just a mild one that happens around 2200rpms for me. It's an annoyance related to the interior trim or something. The frequency of it happening reduced somewhat when I switched to Mobil 1 oil but it still happens. Some have discovered it was coming from within the speaker area. I haven't bothered to mess around with it as it doesn't bother me that much. There are a couple threads on it but I don't think that is what you are referring to?

I'm at 88,000 miles. Dealership recommended I change the rear pads about 72,000 and I did it myself which was VERY EASY to do. It cost me about $28 with premium pads on clearance from Rockauto. After having done them, it still appeared they had over 30% on them so I think the dealership just wanted to try to make money off me. The inner pad was worn more than the outer so there was an imbalance. Still work perfectly. If anyone needs any help on doing their own I can offer that. It's not hard to check them if you can look at them.

Welp you could try a desulfating 'smart' battery charger like the Noco ($45 black friday) which should buy you a few years if you don't want to fork out the dough for a new battery. It has worked for me but I can't say the battery is "like new" but it is working as long as I don't let the car sit for a week or more.

Just an FYI Rockauto sells a Ford/Motorcraft AGM that matches the FFH. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8879268&cc=3300323&pt=2476&jsn=599 $163.79 + $18.00 core I'm on the original battery, however it does sometimes get low and I get that warning saving battery thing from time to time. During the pandemic when my car was sitting a lot I got a NOCO 5 amp battery charger for sale during black friday. I also tried the 10amp but found it bulky and for some reason not as good. Anyway, it has saved me from having to buy new batteries for either of my cars 4 years on.

On my other car it is a gear that slips into the top of the transmission through a hole also used to fill in transmission fluid (manual trans).

Uh oh. Maybe we should take this site more seriously because we are going to need it. I realize a few years ago there were a handful of engineer-brains trying to ruin it but they probably aren't interested any more since Ford moved on from cars. There might be more people needing it in the future as these cars age. (Engineer brain: I remember trying to explain to one how running the fan for a couple minutes after having run the a/c prevents future mildew build up. Was no brainer to me but he couldn't accept it. They also chased off our MVP, Paul T. Jones.)

Yes coincidentally I just did this last fall and am quite happy with it. I used Mobil 1 0w-20 extended life 20,000 mile high mileage engine oil with the Mobil 1 oil filter. I immediately noticed the engine ran quieter and smoother and the fuel economy has gone up. I got a 54mpg tank this year. This was my first time changing the oil on the hybrid. I stupidly should have done it sooner because it was easy. Here's the thing. The oil that came out STANK. It smelled terrible and was pitch black. I fear the dealership never actually put fresh oil in my car when I had it changed around February 2023. Did any of you guys noticing the OEM oil stinking to high heaven? I changed both my cars at the same time and the older car's oil that had been in there for 2 years didn't stink at all.

Last week when I tried to use the site I kept getting a 505 error meaning it was getting through to some server but the page wasn't loading. https://www.isitdownrightnow.com/ Indicated the site had been down for more than a week. Anyone else notice this?