lkatze2

You do not have to lift the engine. There is a cover inside the wheel well that has to be removed that will allow you to fully access the front cover, pulley, bolts, sensor and any lines. The annoying part about the leak is that the oil is dripping onto the undershield. The undershield cannot be cleaned since it is made of some type of material that soaks up the oil, which will cause the undershield to eventually fall apart.

Sky14fhh, unfortunately, not using gaskets is very common with many manufacturers these days. Not sure why they having been getting away from gaskets, probably to save money and quicker to build engine at factory. Applying silicone properly can sometimes be tricky, you don't want to use to little and you don't want to use too much.

I have not done the job yet, but it is definitely leaking from the front crank cover mating surface. BTW, MEELEE, it is not overfilled with oil.. I am not an idiot, i have been repairing cars for over 30 years. Turns out Ford only used a very thin layer of silicone (no gasket), which will start to leak sooner or later. Also, I highly recommend you get the special tools needed to lock up the crank and cams, otherwise the engine will jump out of time when the pulley is removed. Otherwise, the job is relatively straight forward., but it is time consuming. Mine started to leak at about 50,000 miles. My transmission also was leaking ATF for the same reason. Ford was real cheap with there silicone application on the transmission case halves. Luckily, I got it repaired under warranty.

oil is leaking from my 2014 2.0 hybrid engine timing cover gasket, not the seal.. I am going to tackle the job myself. Just wondering if anybody has any tips or advice on replacing the gasket? Has anybody done the job themselves or sent it to the dealer? Does the cover use a gasket or just silicone? I did not see the exact gasket on any of the parts stores websites. Thanks

Thanks Larry, I am definitely going to take it in now for the steering wheel bolt recall. Hopefully it will solve the problem. The popping sound/feeling has been getting worse.

My 2014 titanium is making a slight clicking or popping sound when turning the steering wheel. It makes the noise whether car is driving or just sitting still, but only when turning the steering wheel. It is just one pop/click sound. The noise is definitely come from the steering wheel or column area. Maybe the clock spring or bad bearing in column or bad column shaft ujoint?????? I know there is a recall for the steering wheel bolt replacement, but I am hoping the dealer does not tell me the whole column has to be replaced. Anybody else out there experience the same problem???

My oil change warning just came on at approximately 7000 total miles since the last oil change. Last time the warning light came on after approximately 5000 miles (the manual says 10,000 miles). What gives? After I do the oil change I am going to use trip odometer to monitor EV miles vs. total miles which should give me ICE miles for the next oil change period as mentioned by PTJONES.. Hopefully this will give me a good idea how much oil I am consuming compared to how many ICE miles.

Also, Is there any way to display the miles or hours that the ICE has actually run?

ptjones, It was just a little less than one quart low. When I do an oil change I only fill the engine to exactly the full mark on the dipstick so that I can precisely monitor oil consumption. As you mentioned the engine holds only 4.5 quarts with filter change, so I usually end up with extra oil in the 5 quart container. I will continue to monitor it and check it a day after I do the next oil change, as you mentioned. BTW, I checked for any leaks and there are none.

this is for the people who do their own oil changes. I do my oil changes at 10,000 miles. At my last oil change I noticed my oil level was about one quart low so I decided to monitor my oil consumption. At approximately 7000 miles since my last oil change my engine is almost one quart low on oil. Has anybody monitored there oil consumption? I know there are several variables that can effect oil consumption, such as how much the engine is actually running versus miles driven. But , I would like to get a rough idea if my oil consumption is normal or too high. BTW, my 2014 only has 32,00 miles.

The other day my daughter accidentally locked the intelligent access remote for my 2014 titanium in the trunk of the car, furthermore all the doors were locked. Knowing how the remote will unlock the drivers door by having the remote in your hand and placing your other hand into the door handle, I thought the trunk would also unlock by pressing the trunk open button that is located on the outside of the trunk lid, since the remote was just inside the trunk. But this did not open the trunk, I ended up giving her the door code to open the drivers door. Can anybody confirm that this is normal that the trunk lid will not open if you lock your remote in the trunk???? BTW, my daughter is a Honda car salesperson and she said the newer Hondas allow the trunk to be opened by the trunk button if you lock your remote/keys in the trunk.

md13ffhguy, you must be a glutton for punishment

BTW, i would first clear the code and see if it comes back before you start changing parts. Might not come back just like the previous issues you had.

it is mounted on the engine a little higher than the back of the radiator fan motor.

look at the back of the radiator fan motor, then directly across from the radiator fan motor about half way down the engine is the purge valve. It has two bolts, two hoses (one hose has a blue plastic clamp) and an electrical plug. It is just below and to the left of the throttle valve motor.

Does anybody know how many photos can be uploaded to my NAV/stereo display at one time? It appears that there is enough space for three photos, but I can only upload one photo to the middle space of the display. BTW, it was a PITA to properly format the photo to fit the display. I had to severely reduce the MB's of the photo. You would think they would have a screen that will accept higher resolution photos.

BTW, since the battery does not crank the engine, you can run the battery voltage pretty low before the electronics/ computers will not operate. When my battery finally gave out completely the no load voltage was about 8 volts and the voltage under load was about 3 volts. I know the battery was still working at a no load voltage of about 10 volts and a under load voltage of about 6 volts.

Klatoo, yes it is a minor PITA. Most of the auto parts stores don't stock the battery, you will have to call around. The dealer definitely will have it in stock. My local dealer said he was getting a lot of orders for batteries on the 2013/2014 models since they are reaching that 4 year age.

sschnath, I agree, it is real annoying. I have a feeling a dealer will just ignore our complaint. I have other rattles and squeeks, but that vibration is the worst.

I just changed my battery, and did exactly what Murphy said to do. You definitely can't fit the battery through the opening. Dont forget to disconnect the battery venting breather tube from the top of the battery and reinstall it with the new battery.

I have not had the issue that you mention, but I was just wondering what you mean by a "scan gauge"?. Are you talking about a scanner for fault codes?

I have been hearing a vibration noise for a long time that is real annoying. It is difficult to tell exactly where it is coming from but sounds to be behind passenger side of dashboard . It is a humming type of vibration. It is definitely related to the engine RPM since it only happens at certain RPM's and does not happen when the engine is off. I seem to remember other people posting that they were having the same issues, but I cannot find the original topic. Has anybody had the same issue or come up with a solution, besides turning the stereo louder (which does work).

mwr, I just looked on Amazon and saw a bunch of products that are supposed to restore the color on leather seats/furniture. Just search under "leather seat color restorer". They appear to be something like a dye that is not supposed to rub off onto your clothing and they make it in many different colors including white. I can't vouch for any since I am not sure what the guy used on my car. If you do find a good product, post the name, because I have that spot on my seat that needs to be redone. I will post also if I find a good product.

yep, something similar, except mine has black leather. It appears that the leather is not very good quality. I had some car detailer use some "black leather stain" ( not sure what exactly he used), but it worked well. After about one year, it has worn off, so I will have to "stain" it again. I dont know if they make a product in white.

if the shutters are staying closed, there "might" be reduced airflow across the condensor, causing the highside pressure to be too high causing the high pressure switch to open. I am not sure if the shutters would cause enough an airflow restriction to reduce the airflow across the condensor. Have you checked the high side pressure yet? Also if it turns out to be a high side problem, check your condensor fans.