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Okay, yeah, I had the A/C on so that probably explains it. I know I've seen it above 200F before...just haven't paid attention enough to get a feel for how the temperature behaves under different scenarios except to say the correlation between ICE temp and mpg is very noticeable.

I just a did 300 mile drive and I was paying attention to the ICE temp with my ScanGauge. In my 2015 FFE it never got above 196F and it seemed to want to hug 184F'ish most of the time. I wonder if our cars have slightly different programming or tuning parameters for the thermal control.

They're right in front of the radiator. Aerodynamics is probably part of it, but it's hard to deny that control of the ICE temperature is another.

Very cool. The Raptor has that new 2nd gen ecoboost engine which generate some impressive torque and horsepower numbers for its size. I'd love to see Ford figure out how to pair the 1.5L EB engine to the hybrid drivetrain. I like the fuel economy of the hybrid, but I want a bit more power. Basically, I want to have my cake and eat too :)

I hear what you're saying, but I can see reasons why grill covers like what ptjones has haven't been included. However, keep in mind that active grill shutters are included. I just don't think they're as effective as they could be. Just this morning I drove 30 miles to work in mid 40's weather and my ICE never got above 165F. Though, to be fair, I have the Energi and I was running pure EV about 10 of those miles, but still...

Nice. There's a lot to learn both in terms of the features on the vehicle and how to drive it. Make sure you ask questions if something isn't clear.

I'm not a big fan of drafting either. For it to be really effective you have to be pretty close. Not only is this a safety concern, but you also increase the risk of getting your windshield cracked by rocks and whatever gets lofted your way. You are also more likely to have to press hard enough on the brake pedal to activate the friction brakes. I do think you can follow at a safe enough distance and still get maybe 1-2 mpg improvement, but even that just doesn't seem worth it to me.

I saw 142 HP as the spec for the 2.0L Atkinson cycle engine. I've not been able to find a power curve for the engine. It would have to be dyno tested outside of the vehicle otherwise the hybrid powertrain would screw up the results since the ICE cannot be isolated while in the vehicle.

Our 2012 Ford Escape Hybrid had 100k miles on it before we sold it and we never changed the pads, rotors, or drums. They were still fine when it was sold. Our 2012 FEH had the lowest maintenance cost at 100k of any vehicle we have ever owned.

In my case the hybrid techs were booked up so it took 2 weeks to get my car to the dealer. I started researching the problem and that's when I discovered that pulling the negative battery cable might at least get my heat going again. And sure enough it did. I told the service adviser what I did and that I thought there was still a problem. They called back later and said they had to update the FCIM. Pretty simple fix. I hope your is as simple.

I had something similar. In my case it would not blow any hot air even though the car was warmed up and oddly the audible chimes that occurred when when pressing any of the center console buttons stopped working. This clued me in that it was probably a software glitch. I pulled the negative battery cable off to get the computer to reboot. That got the heat working again, but there were some settings in the left instrument cluster that were no longer available so I took it into the dealer. The FCIM had to be reflashed.

Based on your signature you noticed a difference of 2.2% on at least one occasion. Do you have any other observations? Is it usually around 2%? How big of an effect does does tire wear have?

Yeah, given using the trip computer or pump receipts and odometer I'd imagine the later is the most accurate. One thing I do like about the trip computer is that it does not count the fuel used for remote starting. IMO that's the way it should be because remote starting is discretionary and has 0% correlation with the vehicle's capabilities so it shouldn't count against the mpg.

Fuel pump metering is very accurate (required by law to be within 0.3%). I'd imagine the odometer is less accurate, but not unreasonably so; maybe on the order of a couple % at most. The odometer is probably biased high or low. You could use a GPS logger/tracker to get a pretty accurate reading to see what the error is on your odometer. It would be interesting if someone could do the experiment to quantify the error of both the computer and the manual calculation. I would, but honestly I'm just not terribly interested in this one.

I think that's what griswald is saying. But the 30% may have just been an example. 30% seems awfully low to me. When I put my Energi L the decel force when I let off the throttle is substantial and it's not using friction brakes. At 45mph I would imagine the amount that could be reclaimed if doing it perfectly is closer to 90%...just a guess though.