lsherlockl

I just wanted to make a followup post for closure. Dealership had to do a hard reset of systems using the ford computer. Still cost me ~100 bucks kinda ticked at that but at least climate control works. Also gave advice of try pulling the secondary battery (lead acid one) for 20-30 minutes if run into it again or if run into it on the road as in WI there are times when you need heat and more importantly defrost to work.

thanks Ill try that tonight, I also tried resetting the MFT through the interface though I always turn off my climate control via I think the soft touch power button i think thats the power dead center in the console panel. Should also state my + and - buttons make no sound too I will let you know how it goes tonight

I feel bad i always end up coming on here when I need help i should really stay around longer, but anyhow... 2014 FFH SE I was driving home from work yesterday and it was reasonable chilly like 31 degrees Fahrenheit (sunny so black interior made it not soo bad). So after the engine came up to temp I decided to turn on the climate control (which is usually left at 68 degress at recommendation of some old post somewhere) i was suprised to hear the blowers roar at max speed out of all vents i look down and see the climate is displayed as being set to 21 degrees WTH thats even out of the range that is normally acceptable (something like 50-60 i thinK) i immediately turn off as its blowing freezing cold air everywhere try a bit further down my 1 hr commute same thing, try adjsuting VIA buttons or touch screen no luck. I wanted to power cycle it but I had all green lights and didn't want to stop. So this morning rolls around i think maybe things will be better after power cycling, let the engine come up to temp and turn on climate control, this time i did it by voice thinking i could cheat around the buttons being weird. And low and behold climate turns on displays 68 degrees and proceeds to go crazy blowing cold air all over the place WTF. So i start trying to adjust temp, which now the buttons make no noise but will "increase" the temperature number if i move it up to HI it will sometimes give me heat a bit and sometimes cold. I tried several times on my drive in. Any thoughts? I read some similar ish behavior with remote start things, but this seemed a bit more different. Just rather ticked as not that far out of warranty and first a wheel bearing now this, quite aggravating to say the least. Specially as in WI se still will likely be getting below freezing temps for a bit yet.

thanks make me feel better :)

Thinking of doing something similar so long as I will have a place to store the winter tires on the rims and just mark their locations and swap em myself. And even if the overall outside diameter is a tad smaller it just means you will be going slower than your speedometer says so not like you will really run into trouble that way.

Forgive the double post but to bring closure or wrap up the case for anyone else reading. Took my car in this morning and it was the "rear sub assembly" in my mind that is the whole block unit around the bearing but not positive what the term was. Came out to be under 300 with diagnosis parts and labor which does not seem awful I think. Hopefully that will be the last of any issue for awhile! I want to see if they can explain how or why or what could have caused it to fail.

no i think thats the energi or EV only

i mena ive been in and out of the building (its so cold outside) trying it a few times im pretty sure ive done slow and fast but maybe Ill give it one more go i think you only have 5 seconds anyhow

Hello! so this is like the third time i found need to use the entry keypad. my FFH has the standard dumb keyfob with the switchblade key not the fancy AI keyfob or whatever. Basically key got locked in car when I got into work this morning, I blame winter glove being clumsy and stuffing stuff in pockets. Anyhow I locked the car door via the push button on the door as I am exiting so thats how it got in there. Now when it comes lunch I run out too my car and realize what has happened, go oh I got the keypad lets jsut unlock it and find my key. Guess what it does not want to work. I only have my user code for key 1 memorized as its based off a date (no im not messing the date up) other thing to note that it is below zero out today with a windchill. I was able to swype down and get the keypad to iluminate, and then punch in my code. YOu should only need five presses right? and the little circle light up on top would blink after each of them but after the fith entry no unlock, try hitting 3-4 to unlock all doors... nothing Quite frustrating any experience or ideas? Rather sooner than later so I can get home (if not I can try get a family member to bring a spare key but its a hour commute)

Don't want to bring up an older topic, but I experienced the same issue on my 2014 FFH over the summer. Same sort of thing could see a stain on the bottom cover, and could see a drip or two of reddish fluid on the bottom of the transmission. took it in they were like yup, we will get the parts and fix it up ~3 days but mine was longer as the mechanic working on mine had a death in the family. Turns out just anybody cant walk into the middle of a torn apart tyranny and put it back together :P Also to note was under the bumper to bumper warranty at this point. has been 6 months and changed my oil again, checked out the transmission no leaks or drips that I could find so far so good!

~45k miles I have an appointment this thursday with a ford garage to check it out. To the others comments it does seem to get louder over time, i thinkI may have noticed it about a month ago when things got colder around here (no its not the exhaust it exist when on electric only too). It sounds like the rythmatic drone of a engine to be honest and kinda reminds me of a airplane engine as in like a old school propeller plane. At this point I'm really thinking its the bearing but am kinda sad because I didn't do anything to my poor car and i have only put 20-30k miles in on it myself (of course occurs after warranty) I hope my daily commute will not harm anything else if it is the bearing going i still need to go a hour each way every day.

Hi, So aside of loving my fusion to bits I now have a small and somewhat aggravating issue. When driving down the road i get sorta a road noise or oscelating rythmatic sound that appears to be coming from my back right tier/ wheel well. it is not like a grinding per se, but is definately noticeable expecially at speeds of 35-50mph anything above that there is enough road noise to sorta cover it up. Also to note that when I make a banking left turn the noise will disappear and then re-appear when i straighten back out. I have checked and made sure all tires are fully filled. I have checked all tires for like a stock rock nail or screw that could be hitting the pavement as the tire rotates and making that sound. Personally I'm afraid its bearing related as i know those are quite costly. Has anyone seen a similar issue or provide input? Thanks for any help!

Oh thanks, witht he 14's had that oh well

My apologies for neglecting this thread, before there was hardly any interest. Anyhow ill update some things. These bulbs do work with the daytime driving lights actually got some comments that they thought I had angel eyes which is cool. Energy savings i do agree is hardly anything, but in my book that's what makes this car what it is a bunch of tiny energy savings If i can help that why not! Comment on the lumens, they are stated at 3,000 each i believe standard halogen are around the 2500 mark, but how much can you trust either manufacturer to be accurate in that regard? meh maybe? But also consider aside of lumens the usefulness of the light, I find the white light to highlight alot more detail at range compared to the stock "yellow" also road signs and fire numbers and anything that's reflective pop like you wouldn't believe (though if you have HID's you know this) there is also the point that you don't need to have suns in your headlight housings that's actually bad for other drivers but lets not get into that. Long story short i would say they are similar to HID's to me its a simpler installation, a longer life solution at a similar price-point that may be not quite as bright as a HID. I only wish there was a good LED HighBeam bulb for me to use that would fit.

Its been a little over 6 months and 10,000 mi in my FFH SE and still every day getting out of work i cant help but think that's a darn nice looking car then i get in to drive home and enjoy the nice comfortable leather seats as i tell the car what music to play and let the sound envelope me. And all that while getting absolutely absurdly good MPG Since breaking out of winter my daily commute jumped from mid to high fortys to 56mpg avg for the past 2-3 months. As others have stated even using the A/C a bit doesn't hurt the returns that much 1-2mpg (tho WI is cooler ish in the sumer) Side note too I find venting the moonroof Plus 2-3 in on back right window create a nice sorta cyclone of air around the driver without adding much noise. All in all far better than the 41mpg i was using to calculate the break even point when deciding to purchase this car

Didnt really realize it but since out of WI winters Ive been getting the 600 tanks for awhile (though my hr commute usually means i fill up at just below a quarter) Anyhow circumstances left the legs of the trip end at a nice 600 this time around, could actually still make it to work and maybe halfway back with what was left in the tank when I filled up. This car never ceases to amaze. My commute must be perfect because since like April its been high 50's every day which is amazing. I really need to figure out where the lifetime average mpg is EDIT: wrong pic this one XD other was just trip 2

Thanks, I guess I will just do that, and error light should come on if its detected or "back" so to speak right? Also side note this weather warming up is making me smile from mpgs and so happy to be back in my FFH!

I seen the one post on having check engine light come on but sounded different than what I am experiencing so I figured I would make a separate post. In short awhile back i had some issues with the check engine light accompanied by the message about check fuel cap days after refueling this winter. used nozzle whatever in a few days it would reset cam on about 2 times then it behaved alright. Fast forward about a month... had a unfortunate accident on the last snowfall of the year slid while exiting a roundabout ~15mph and bent strut, damaged bearing, bent rim and scuffed the other on curb went through some nightmares at service centers/garages in the area but that is another story... (over 2 weeks and a day where no one knew where my car was... grrr) Now after getting car back i noticed the engine light on, I assumed it was from resetting some system or some tire sensor just needing to reset gave it two days to get some driving cycles to see if it reset. This morning on the way in to work I find that it is turned off... Okay that's good I think but I still stop off at a friends on the way in and get his ODBII reader and pull the codes. here is what i get: Vehicle Manufacturer: Ford Vehicle Calibration ID: Not present Current Fault Log ------------------ P0456: Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (very small leak) Pending Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no pending faults Historic Fault Log ------------------ P0457: Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (fuel cap loose/off) Other discovered fault codes (possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific) ---------------------------------------------------- ECU reports no other fault codes logged Now it says there is an error even though there is no light? I assume the previous one is the fuel cap from ~ month ago? Anyone else see this before? I just really dreading taking it back in around here because if its "accident" related should be still the liability of where i took it to fix it. If its normal warranty I can go where I please. Thoughts?

Yeah I kinda realized that, though any savings by headlights is kinda negligible like .05 mpg or something like that. I do believe that they in fact are brighter they certain, i can ask around i think i know someone with a light meter. But they are very much more enjoyable at night time than the stock solution. Only issue is the little yellow spot out at distance that i get with the high beams its just odd to have mixed color spectrum's out there. maybe Ill have to get some HID's or maybe a future LED lamp that will fit in the sort of offset high-beam opening

Idk if this is a valid topic to post here or maybe the cruise control thread but its ultimately to get better MPG so i stuck it here. Basically I notice that cruise is pretty good, however its not location smart. so basically I have noticed the car want to fill up the battery say like 92% before discharging any when in cruise and not going down a steep hill where there is no point to have ice on. so let me paint you a situation. battery 75% driving on a flat, hill in the distance. On cruise the car will keep ICE on to fill the battery but just personally knowing this leg of my journey i know that the magically flipping point when the battery would be at 92% and switch over to EV would be right at the base of the hill. Now to me this is a problem because i know i will need ICE to get up the hill and there is going to be no battery space to charge up. So what i get in the habit of doing (the "TRICK") is i just flip the cancel/resume rocker down then up real fast, its the same thing as letting off the gas fro a sec to get it to drop back into EV. Now you can simply not worry and let cruise go, or go without cruise and be like a boss, but i find over long time the pedal is really finite could be I'm still newish to the vehicle and have a more difficulty regulating EV and ICE over long stretches manually (maybe its just attention span or music ;) ) Anyone else do this? Is this dumb or bad to do?

Side question how do you get to that display? and congrats i don't think i could get there Iwill say MPG is like an obsession that grows with this vehicle told myself i would be happy with 41, now i'm upset when my winter commutes i cant get 45-47. Maybe summer will be better :) got more ground to make up for the previous owners 39mpg avg on my used FFH.

Excellent got to do this now, was just debating how to do this and just in time!

not sure on DRL's need to ask dealer to turn em on next time I take the car in. I updated first post text only to be accurate is a 50W 6ohm Resistor. I assume they should work too because drop in voltage will still fire them due to the power converter box on the line into the headlight? But i would have to talk with torch-star reps to verify, ill try benching one of the lights if i get an opportunity. All i have left the is incandescent is high beams (led sadly wont fit there heat sync runs into assembly body), backup lights, puds, and turn signals (which i don't think can support if a resistor is needed?) But puds and reverse are next on my list and then ill be happy :)

Now to route the wires out slit the dust cover Push the wires out through the slit and seat the cover back on, you want both the controller box and the original cable outside so you can attach it to the resistor. now find a location to mount your resistor, i chose the metal beam right behind the headlights. hold the resistor in place and mark the holes on the beam with your center-punch and drill them out. I applied some arctic silver five (computer thermal paste) or any thermal grease, will help transfer more of the heat to the car frame Using a credit card blank (one of those that come in the annoying spam mail) to spread it more evenly before attaching and to make sure you don't have too much on Now you can screw it to the frame with some sheet metal screws Step 4 Put everything back together: Set the headlamp assembly back in place and line up the ball pin guy with the little hole here, and push it in, this will take a bit of force too. Now you headlight is back in place Just put everything back together in reverse order. Make sure all harness you unplugged are back in, and you hitch the led bulb to the resistor, and the resistor to the cable coming out of the headlight assembly that went to the original headlight bulb. Step 5 Enjoy: Your really awesome car just got even better ! and with led's you save half the power consumed by headlights so save even more energy :)

Step 2 Remove the Headlight Assembly: The headlight mounts to like a ball and socket joint here, to remove the headlight pull straight out in relation to this, be forceful it is a tough fit but be careful too so you don’t bang anything up to snap off any parts. Rotate the assembly down a bit and out. Note on the driver side lamp you need to unplug and detach this wire harness here to get it out, don’t forget to re-attach when assembling again that the hood switch. Step 3 Install the new lamps: Remove old light bulb careful not to touch the glass oils in your hands can mess with them. Pack them away as spares. Install your new led bulb, note there are 3 ways in can be inserted you want the “big tab” at the 10’oclock position if your ooking at the back of the headlamp assembly for both lamps. Set the lamp back and plug it in verify that the beam pattern is right Wrong Right! See the difference between beam patterns ? Right Wrong