Cobra348

I took delivery of a black 2025 Toyota Camry AWD hybrid this past Thursday.  While I'm a bit miffed about a lack of decent Nav features (subscription on LE and SE models), I got Android Auto and Google Maps to work with Sirius.  That made me feel better.  Straight-line launches in normal and sport drive modes are impressive.
 
It has road sign identification.  Speed limit signs are not only detected and displayed as white on black background, but if you are more than 2 MPH over the limit, it turns red.  It also will recognize pedestrian signs, stop and yield and more - in addition to the display of speed limit.
 
Welp, it's been a good run.  For those of you that stick with FFH and FFE, best wishes to you.  Take care, all!  <waves and walks off>

Damn!  Shoulda checked YouTube, huh?  The panel with the Ford logo on it is the one I was questioning.  My screwdriver was too small, tho.  And I had no clue on the battery number.
 
Thanks a ton!

All you ever wanted to know ... right here:  https://fordfusionhybridforum.com/topic/8437-all-from-dealer-method-for-obtaining-spare-tire-with-research-notes-and-installation-tips/
 
I bought the new stuff with my '15 FFH and it all fit perfectly.  They changed the well some for '20 (and I assume '19) which makes it slightly problematic fitting the tire in due to the HVB case bolt changes they made.  There's one that stops the insertion of the spare itself.
 
For a lot less expensive method, go to a salvage yard and see if you can get all the pieces from a 2013+ ICE Fusion.  That's mentioned in the thread as well.

Yup ... that's the button!  It should display a green "Eco" below and slightly right of the speedometer.  If you are pressing it with no change, dealer is the way to go.

I'm with Waldo on this.  The big milestones are dealer, but things like oil, etc I take to my mechanic.

I just did the described process (x2) and it worked! Thanks to everyone who chimed in here.

I like it!  If you want to decrease body roll a bit, add a Strut Tower Brace from Steeda.  Steering tightens up a small bit but body roll is decreased.  Driveway install.  The Steeda hood struts allow open hood without using the bar ... also driveway install.

All that deep thought and consideration without doing some basic math.
 
The difference between 42mpg and 48mpg is about 30 gallons of fuel over 10,000 miles.  At $3.50/gallon, that's about $100 every 10,000 miles.  So if you spend $300 to restore back to "full" battery health, you will need 30,000 miles just to break even.  But based on your data, in another 30,000 miles you'll have lost what you gained back, so you'll have to do it again.  Basically you'll never come out ahead, so why take the risk of damaging or ruining it?  Never mind the safety considerations, do you really think your rideshare insurance would be ok knowing you've got a homemade high-voltage battery pack sitting a foot away from your paying passengers? 

Snip #1 - Regarding spare tire ... when I ordered my '15 I got the required parts new from Ford and TireRack (tread).  It was pricey but we have no decent salvage yards within 30 miles of where I live.  If you go salvage/used/second-hand, get any 2013+ gas Fusion spare and all the parts for it (assembly cone, jack, wrench).  It'll fit into the well in place of the mobility kit and you can use the holddown bolt and screwcap.
 
But not on a '20 (dunno on '19).  Why not?  Because they changed the size of the mount for the assembly unit and changed the screws that hold the HVB cover on/together.  Result is even if you hone out the area to mount things, the screws will interfere wit the tire seating properly in the well.  If you want to remove the screws I suggest keeping them ... but leaving them in will either puncture the tire (if you force things) or prevent proper installation.
 
Snip #2 - I would rather pay for a wrecker to get my car to the shop than put that crap into my tire.  One, if it is a simple screw as you experienced, it may be patchable - and if not a pro-rated replacement is fine.  The goop is no good on sidewall blowouts ... period.  It sets up like concrete in the tire if you use it AND destroys the TPMS sensor for that wheel.  So you are out a tire AND sensor - added expense.  Common sense and my Goodyear Manager tell me that. <chuckle>
 

<chuckle>  One thing I learned here when I was waiting for my first FFH was to take the time to explore ALL the screens - dash and SYNC.  Find out about everything and where preferences could be set note what you want.  Then go back and set the preferences.
 
TBH I thought "what a crock" ... until I saw all the screens.  Spent a couple hours looking at and fiddling with everything.  Made transition to later models quite easy.

Best advice I can offer is something I read here 6-7 years ago.  Sit in the car, engine running, manual at hand.  On each screen (speedo flankers and center stack) look to see what each setting is and read any help that is with it.  Don't change anything, but do note what you want to look closer at.  This may take you long enough that you'll need to restart the engine.
 
Second time through, go to the settings you want to change and make it happen.  This is also where you want to pair your phone to the car if you want to.  All of this may take you an hour or 2 but it's time well spent and you'll know where things are.  Of course use the manual to help out.
 
Welcome to the wonderful world Ford Fusion Hybrids.  They're interesting "critters".  I spent a week in the peninsula area back in the '90s.  Loved it.  Nice countryside.

I think that is why the push to get the warning stuff.  Also, if it was disabled somehow by the owner, does that void warranties if it is discovered?  And what about the next driver(s) to get the vehicle expecting the warning to be there and it's not.  <shrug>
 
To me it's annoying only until I hit 20 .

As mentioned the biggest consideration is the trunk space.  I couldn't get by with the Energi trunk, so I got an FFH instead.  
 
But if you're not going to regularly plug it in, there is no point to get the Energi.  Everytime you drive an Energi around using the gas engine, you're burning extra fuel to carry around the significant weight of the battery that you aren't using.  Even a coal fired electric plant is more efficient than a small internal combustion engine, so if you get an Energi, plan to plug it in every day.
 
Another point, Ford went through a LOT of cost cutting at the end of the Fusion run.  If you can find a nice 2018, it will probably be a better buy in the long run than a 2020.

Check your trunk space - it is less than the Fusion Hybrid (non-plugin) because the battery is so huge.  Essentially where there is a passthru over the FFH battery, there is none in the FFE.  My brother checked one a couple years ago and determined having his hybrid was the right step.

No it does not. Where the '15 ECO mode was set via the left screen settings, '17 has a button on the console as has been noted. Effects are still the same, tho. That includes on/off and all the stuff.
 
 
Somewhere in here is a little study by me in non-Eco mode, Eco mode and a mix ... about 1600 miles each setting. Overall I came up with better MPG in non-Eco mode but only by a very small margin. I found that using Eco, I needed to coax the acceleration more often than was worth the savings ... so I don't use it now. I do use cruise when I can however.

I run 40 psi cold ....  did on the OEM tires and do on the snows I use.  I'm lazy and don't want to keep checking pressure so I can usually go 2-3 months when at 40.  This pressure is well below the MFGR max and runs just as well. 
 
The OEM tires finally ran out of tread so a new set will be installed Mar 24 - Goodyear ComfortDrive.  Supposedly as good as the Michelins but this I gotta see - and there is a 30-day satisfaction period.
 

LOL.  That means nothing.  I get those 99mpg summaries on short drives too.  Hand calculated average on fill ups are all that matter.

Thanks to all for the reply!    It does seem odd that the dealer did this, but will be setting all of them the same!

Ford says 35 PSI on the cars.  I run 40 cold because I'm lazy and it takes longer for me to feel like checking tire pressure - especially in Winter. 
 
Make sure you're check ing cold pressure.  The TPMS stuff may vary 1 or 2 PSI between them, so they aren't always all that accurate.  I have one that registers 2 under what the pressure really is.

Crumple zones are not between the wheels.  If the vehicle crumpled between the wheels people would die.  Reinforcing things in the crumple zone is not a good idea.  The basic Fusion does well in rear crashes despite having a spare tire, not because of it.  But the base Fusion doesn't have a battery to get in the way like the hybrid does, and thus things are DIFFERENT!!
 
You clearly don't understand the physics of vehicle crashes, so please stop posting potentially dangerous advice on public forums.  Recommending that somebody modify their vehicle from factory configuration to make it SAFER without any actual knowledge or testing of the idea is irresponsible and could even land you as the subject of a lawsuit.

This is unreal.  I mean just the level.....   Just STFU you menace and I am just glad not to be one of the victims to share the road with your ilk in your city.  You're an idiot.  You're improperly educated on how to drive and you need to go back to a driving course.  Like Cobra said, COPS will ticket the people failing to use their brake lights.  I've got to get a dash cam because idiots like you are on the road.  Before long it is going to be like Russia out there.
 
OMG You are a moron!  It's not "misinformation".  It's common knowledge! It's IN THE LINK.  I double checked.   Seriously how do you even have a driver's license?  Are you trolling?  42??? You act like you're 22 or maybe you have premature cognitive decline. Grow the hell up or get a proper driver's education. 
 
This reminds me of this redneck punk in a jeep that was swerving around through traffic and tailgating people. I became one of his victims.  He actually had a kid in the back seat!  It is unbelievable how off base and out of control so many idiots are these days.
 
" fyi (but its pointless for you) slowing or stopping doesnt mean stopped "

FYI that's called "splitting hairs" and is totally irrelevant.  STOPPED is the end result of slowing or stopping but it is pointless to you because you're like an automaton and cannot infer such a thing, UNLIKE EVERYONE ELSE. You have to be programmed with EXACT instructions to know how to behave properly.
 
So I'm curious eisbaer, playing devil's advocate,  can you find for me where it says specifically that are supposed to drive on the right side of the road?  And if you cannot find it are going to start driving on the left as an extra challenge, you know, just because you're feeling like Logan Paul, or one of those other airheads, and you just gotta challenge the norms right?

As has been noted, the options are a few.  However, it is not smart to have your foot off the brake at lights.  What if someone slams you from behind ... you will end up in the ass end of the vehicle in front of you - or the middle of the intersection.
 
It really is best to keep the brake in action to prevent things like this.  And they do happen ... my late wife was in a chain-reaction when a drunk woman plowed into the car 3 spots behind her.  She had her foot on the brake.  The back of our car got a bit of damage, but nothing up front.

I am SO tickled this is still grinding on.  Coming home from the restaurant I had to dodge a bit of mayhem on the road.
 
Seems 3 vehicles were in a rear-ender.  According to a witness, the first car hit did not have brake lights.  You would think the vehicle hitting them would get ticketed, right?  Nope.  The car with no brake lights was ticketed as causing the accident since the approaching driver had no knowledge of their stopped condition.  This no-light situation CAN cause grief.
 
In essence, this quoted snippet above holds true in NY - Drivers Ed. and Defensive Driving courses.  Obviously it also holds true in accident situations locally at least.  Sometimes the cops around here are really, really on the ball.  Which brings me to MY pet peeve - stopping distances.
 
Do you come to a stop nice and close to the vehicle in front or do you sit back a decent space?  If the former, incidents like a rear-ender that involve you have a good chance of shoving you into the rear of the vehicle in front.  Defensive Driving course I've taken advise stopping far enough back to see the contact patch of the rear tires of the vehicle in front.  With your foot on the brake, should you get hit in the back, you have a damn good chance of NOT getting shoved into the trunk or pickup bed ahead of you.
 
There ... now I've given y'all another "let's avoid common sense and courtesy" topic!  Aren't I nice?
 

Even if it's not a requirement it is a safe practice to follow and just about everyone does it.  It can and does happen.  You're also endangering those behind you without brake lights on.  Damn it can't the new generation just drive safely FFSs?

Just in case an Energi (FFE) driver reads this thread.  The Energi brakes are bigger because of the weight of the battery.  The specified wheel will not clear the brake caliper so it can't be used.