Cobra348

Take a look thru this thread on Ford Fusion forum. It's an interesting read on how different dealers are handling the costs.

Ford says 87 is fine, so why not? I always fill with 87 and that is the lowest octane around. Dunno where you got the idea I was using anything but.

I hate NY Winters ... knocks the crap outta mileage. Between driving conditions, snow tires, etc I lose 10 or more MPG every cold season.

I'm in upstate NY by Lake Ontario. Today it hit a balmy 12 degrees F and the ICE was running a lot for heating. It's common in cold weather, as noted. My tracked mileage drops quite a bit in Winter due to this, snow tires and general driving conditions. Right now, I'm getting about 33 MPG combined.

1. Check for charging stations around where you are should you need one. 2. The high voltage battery extends to the package shelf, which then ... 2a. eliminates the pass-thru that standard hybrids have 2b. as noted, removes more luggage space in the trunk. NOTE: As it is, the hybrid model has the same trunk size as a Fiesta due to the high-voltage battery. With an Energi you lose even more. IMO, go with a standard hybrid. A new 2020 hybrid sticker price was several thousand $$ less than an Energi. If you do get an Energi, you will need to have the high-voltage charge installed at your house (extra $$$) or use standard house current which will slow the charging process. My biggest argument (personal) against Energi - or ANY plug-in right now - is the added costs (you will be charged for using the charge stations, your house electric bill will increase) and the lack of a charging infrastructure, These added charges are above any that you might have for gasoline too.

Rotation is free for me as well. Swapping full tire sets on and removing what's mounted costs. Swapping rim/tire sets (4 for 4) is free.

Ford says 35 PSI on the cars. I run 40 cold because I'm lazy and it takes longer for me to feel like checking tire pressure - especially in Winter. Make sure you're check ing cold pressure. The TPMS stuff may vary 1 or 2 PSI between them, so they aren't always all that accurate. I have one that registers 2 under what the pressure really is.

Do more than 1 tank. I tested both modes way back and drove over 2000 miles on each before trying to make a judgement.

Assuming the computer is generous in calcs is correct. I use gas receipts (have since my '15) and found sometimes 3+ MPG difference compared to trip meter. I reset trip meter every fill. I use ECO in all driving situations and it works fairly well - altho emasculated vs normal cruise is a good comparison. Sweet spot for highway is somewhere between 53 and 58 in my travels. The fact you are doing a higher limit will affect mileage. If you are in a Wintery area that gets snow, etc, the driving conditions will also affect your mileage. My displayed mixed went from 44+ and currently is 38.9 - snow tires, Winter gas blend, snow. Sounds like you're doing all the right things. Might want to reset the lifetime MPG to ensure a clean slate. That's done by holding the right hand OK button until it's reset.

I tried not to let mine get too low, but long downhills certainly made for a fast charge-up! There is one hill here that if I do it right in cruise, I can top off the battery from 50% (if I had an SOC to verify it).

'19 and '20 models do not have the SOC. I also agree with you that it varies widely from 50%. I saw it drop as low as about 25% and had it topped off ... on both my '15 and the '17 ... many times.

My brother found out it's somewhere around 4-1/2 to 5 weeks and the car may not start. His 13 sat for a month and he had to jump it.

ACK! You're right on gas prices. Edited the orig post accordingly. As for the badging, if your rear end is crunched and the badge is not able to be seen, it is my understanding that any first responders will not know it's a hybrid. With the high voltage stuff - battery, etc - the handling of any fires would be different as I am understanding things. Not a thing that really affects us but could affect someone else ... and other hybrids have similar badging somewhere on their sides. And the rear end scenario can happen - even at highway speeds. As I was leaving Rochester NY eastbound on NY104, traffic came to a halt. Seems someone plowed into the rear end of another car and 1 lane and median had wreckers, EMT and so forth. Posted limit is 55 but I know many hit 65 or better in the area I was in. I want the badges if nothing else than to rub other drivers noses in the fact I get better mileage than they do - even in Winter. Status thing? Mine is better than yours thing? Dunno, but I take immense joy in not having to fill up as often as I used to.

Gas prices are just now hitting $3.49 - $3.59 in my area (Central NY) ... and the increase was fast! The FFH is a solid car and I really have no real issues with the car (or my 2 prior ones) - just Ford. I posted this thread and it appears your car falls into the same category. There is a boatload of information on this forum ... take a look through things and by all means ask questions if this is your first exposure to a hybrid. I typically drive mine as I would a normal car except for an extended stopping distance and a couple other things. I don't hypermile ... too much effort for a retired guy. <shrug> You got a good price on that car and Magnetic is a very decent color. Welcome to the hybrid family!

Allowing for inexact reading of speed by 2 drivers (me and the chase car) I'll take 18 MPH.

The 2020 FFH owners manual (Page 50) reads "Due to the quiet operation of hybrid and electric vehicles at low speeds, the system creates a subtle sound to alert pedestrians. The system is on when your vehicle is running and not in park (P). Some sound may be audible in the passenger compartment." Waldo, I can tell you from actual experience, the dropoff speed on a '20 is 20 MPH. Forward or reverse, that's the speed where the noise stops. And it's annoying as hell.

If you have it taken in on a wrecker, any code thrown might still be in the log. Sometimes these get wiped upon a restart of the car. Then again, that's provided it threw one in the first place. Take a pic of the dash should it happen again. Even if they say they can't repro it, you have the pic.

Get thee to a dealer. Have it towed in, don't let them try to tell you they can't find it. You know the drill. With 36K on it, b2b is gone but if it's hybrid drive related, there's still warranty on it unless you picked up one of those extra special warranties they try to sell.

Doubtful. It's more raspy and annoyingly pitched.BUT - that said, if it is the quiet motor warning, it will be on in any gear except Park until a speed of 20 MPH is reached. At that time it goes away. Soooo, good way to test this noise is get up to something over 20 and if it goes away then that's probably it and I have egg on my face.

Thanks! Since the '19 model was a revamp I wondered if badges were on it or not. There aren't any around here. I will amend my post. Thanks again!

I didn't notice the lack of Hybrid badging on my car for some time. It took a while but I finally got to the dealer and requested that they be put on ... thinking they should be there. Much to my surprise I am informed my cars build sheet does not specify them and it would be my cost and non-warranty addition. I figured "what the hell" and setup an appointment for the installation. However, in front of other customers in the lounge, I did ask the advisor why Ford removed a first-responder warning device from the outside of the car. I only had Hybrid badging on the rear deck. Lord help me if I got seriously rear-ended, was unconscious and fire/rescue did not realize there was high-voltage items in the vehicle. So, I have badging on my doors now. With tax, labor and parts - $92.81. BUT, other '20 models for FFH and Energi do not have the door badge. I know on the Energi since I saw one the other day and it had the same as I did - Hybrid on the deck, nothing on the doors. I know '18 models do have the badge ... my brother has one. So, if you own a 2020 model FFH or Energi, look and see if there is a Hybrid badge on the front doors. If not consider if you want one added or not. EDIT: modified based on response from 2019fordfusionhybrid it looks like possibly 2020 models. Maybe just mine? Dunno

? No problem. Compared to todays computerized things, the older cars can be both a challenge and quite satisfying. I learned how to do tuneups, brake jobs, carb rebuilds and a crapload more ... in the days before the web - with instruction guides (anyone remember Chiltons?), shop manuals. All hardcopy. To answer your question, the front cover was held on via a bunch of bolts (hex-head). I don't recall how many. Then there was a gasket between it and the block. You needed to make damn sure that gasket area was clean on both surfaces before re-installing. Some guys would use a light (and I mean light) bead of sealant, then a new gasket then the cover. If you did it right the sealant wasn't really needed. Torque down the bolts to requirements and you should be good to go. At that point you most likely would insure fluids were good and then proceed to a tuneup. Removing the front cover was usually not done unless the chain needed replacement. With the Dodge, the chain was really slack. Hell, the car was over 100K miles.

Why not try working on something a bit more antiquated than an FFH? <grin> BTW - brothers Caddy is mid-90s, has a 350 cubic inch V8 - timing chain. He doesn't plan on cracking the Jeep, Ram or FFH since they're reasonably new and are covered in some warranty. And just for reference, here's a list of my cars that I worked in one context or another: Young, single and unmarried: 1960 Pontiac Ventura - 389-2 barrel, Hurst 3-speed conversion on floor 1969 Ford Torino GT - 351 2 barrel, 3 on the tree (cash, new) 1968 VW Beetle 1969 Datsun 1600 (Datsun is now Nissan) 1.6 liter 4 cyl, 4-speed manual First marriage: 1965 Plymouth Satellite - 383-2 barrel, 4 speed Hurst conversion on floor 1969 Plymouth Fury 318 2-barrel, auto (replaced the '65) - hers 1961 Chevy Belair 283 2-barrel, auto (hobby car) 1969 Plymouth Sport Satellite 318 2-barrel, auto - mine 1950 Dodge Coronet Club Coupe (hobby car - restoration) Between marriages: 1977 VW Rabbit (bought new) 1969 Plymouth Fury 383 2-barrel, auto 1973 Chrysler New Yorker 440 4-barrel, auto From 1986 to present, I let mechanics do the job they trained for as I had a job requiring lots of hours. Other cars not on that list are ones I helped my Dad with: 1925 Chrysler Town Car, 1936 Pontiac, 1929 Peerless, 1929 Packard Limo, 1948 Packard Limo. Most fun I had was rebuilding the vacuum system on a 1966 Buick Electra 225 ... prior owner had ripped it all out.

I replaced a timing chain on a 1950 Dodge Coronet coupe. A local (FL) shop replaced a timing chain in a 1969 Plymouth I owned at the time. My brother does a lot of car work and if I ask him, he might be able to give me more recent models he knows had chains.

sonuvagun .... belts to replace the chains I always worked with. I'll be dipped. Thanks! <mutters - that's what I get for not doing my own maintenance any more>