billford

This explains the problem: https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10170901-0001.pdf The kit updates the 2013,2014 and 2015 to a 2016 level You get a new transfer gear, bearings, rear cover. There is no filter in the kit.

Did it run out of oil? Looks like a lot of metal missing. Before attempting a repair, are you sure you can find all the broken metal that may have circulated into the rotors, magnets, oil passages, cooler? What does the filter look like? Do you need #83 and #84? The basic part number to ask for is: 83 7D234 Sun gear thrust bearing 84 7A348 Sun gear

Probably blew the 50 amp or 15 amp fuse under the hood. The 50 amp is hot all the time, so it doesn't matter if the key was off. Real bad idea cutting wires. Could have also fried the engine computer as one of the circuits is also in that connector. If you don't splice in the wires properly, you will end up wire corrosion which shows up later. At least disconnect the battery next time

Current draw should average less than .050 amps, 50 milliamps after sitting undisturbed for 1 hour. Do a proper battery test. Disconnect it from the car. Charge it overnight. Let it sit overnight then test it with a carbon pile load tester. One half cca for 15 seconds. I put an agm in my hybrid, but I had to make a larger battery tray to secure it. Its been 2+ years with no problems and it works fine.

There are jump start terminals under the hood on the drivers side. Connect a battery charger or jump start from there.

Interesting problem. According to the diagram, power flows to the lower cushion then to the seat back. If there is an open circuit, then both should not work. But you said the seat back works. I would check for adequate power and ground at both heaters and check the resistance of both to start with. Compare to the passenger side

The 2014 and other years and other ford models without a tcu can send out your location to emergency responders only if you have a paired phone, through the 911 assist feature. That can be disabled for the paranoid. I personally think its a good safety feature and I leave it enabled.

FYI, after changing tire positions, rotating tires, the system needs to be retrained using a tire training tool, otherwise the dashboard display will be incorrect. If there is no pressure display on the dashboard, training is not necessary. Example: On my 2014, there is no display. If my tire light is on, I don't know what tire is low unless I check all of them. On later models with the display, if the tire light is on, you know exactly which tire is low, if they are properly trained. If they are not trained, you have to check all of them.

Even if they are still original, its a good idea to do a brake service every few years. Cleaning the rust from the guides and lubing the caliper pins.

I checked the link and pictures. Almost looks like it has flood damage by all the interior and underhood dirt. Check engine light is on. Why would you want to buy this and sink an unknown amount of money into it?? I personally would not take it even if it was free. Good luck.

Don't worry about it or overthink it. Nothing goes wrong with these engines except for the odd oil seepages.

Another fun fact, the regular keyfob uses one battery. The pushbutton start keyfob uses 2 batteries, double the cost. The 2 battery keyfobs seem to work at a longer distance also.

My 2014 has a warning message on the dashboard to replace the keyfob batteries.

To add fluid, you can reach and remove the trans breather, on top of the trans near the firewall, just pulls out. Attach and hose and funnel to the trans and fill until fluid comes out the filler plug. This way is a lot easier and you don't need a pump.

Check with your dealer to see if its covered under recall 19S54 Microsoft Word - 19S54 Dealer Bulletin FINAL.docx (nhtsa.gov)