airbusguy

Griswald I haven't delved into that yet, as I don't know for sure now that it was the 12v or the HVB. When it occurred, I was more concerned with " getting out of Dodge" rather than doing actual trouble shooting. With the warm weather here, I won't be able to troulbe shoot until the next near-freeze. As I said, the car at present is performing flawlessly except for a noise associated with having the transmission leak repaired and then the thrustwashers inserted - but that's another story.

Last year I towed my FFH HyTy behind my rv 1700 miles to AZ with nary a problem in 15F weather. This year ( you may have seen my post under My Battery Problems I added on to someone elses. My bad. ), I had nothing but problems in cold weather. Once in warmer climes, the problems disappeared. In a nutshell, the car was dead after towing for a day or even less - some cases 2 hours. I know the camera defrost was one of the culprits as displayed by the bare spots in the ice on the windshield. I recall now the HVB state of charge indicator was at the very bottom once I boosted the car to start it, even though it was damn near full to start the day. This occurred 3 times ( days) in a row. Once it was warm out, all was well. I took the car in last week for them to check the 12v battery's condition and apparently it registers great. I originally had thought this might be the culprit due to all the other 12v problems on the board. The more I think about this, the more I think the electrical system shut down because of the HVB charge state, not the 12v. There is no way a 12v battery can be dead 3 times in a row and perform normally thereafter day after day. The tech at the dealer originally tried to tell me I had the tow package wired wrong, and then I was performing the tow procedure improperly.(Service advisor translations to the work order). End result, there is no accessory postion on a FFH pushbutton start, and due to one of the updates, the electrical system stays alive even with the switch off and transmission in Neutral. The tech tried to place the ignition in the accessory postion on Hybrids on the lot after I had left, and also told Ford hotline the same story. No can do. Apparently some Fusions have an accessory postion, but not the Hybrid. So now I have a car that is untowable in cold weather without mods or boosting. Meagan Ford Tech is looking into this and Ford hotline is aware, but no solution is evident. This post is just a warning to those who tow 4 down that this is not possible anymore in cold weather. I believe the temp is 40F is the magic number that it all falls apart when the heater activates. I still think the car is great and have high expectations that this problem can be cured, as it was problem free last winter before updates. It's just a matter of time and priorities to the programmers at Ford. I am in the minority as a towed vehicle owner, so it's probably not high on the list of priorities.

hybridbear Towing as per the manual leads one to believe the car is off. Start the car, run ICE for 1 minute, put transmission in neutral and select car off. The dash whines at you that the transmission is not in park but that stops after about a minute. Then the dash goes dark just as it would if shut down in park. If it had a key it would be off but you could not remove the key while in neutral.

hybridbear I realise the purpose but it shouldn't operate while the pushbutton ignition is off, essentially killing the car. There were defintely 2 spots, one is the lane assist camera - the lens really visible- and the other is about 2 inches above. I can't see anything there but it was definitely melted. Might be a light sensor for the auto high beams or alien detector for driving through New Mexico. Nikki I've got 35654 kms and I'll be using AutoNation Scottsdale on Frank Lloyd Wright Blvd. I'll be trying to get it in late this week or early next week. Thanks in advance.

Speaking of killing batteries, while towing my HyTi behind my rv to AZ from Canada, my 12v discharged enough daily in freezing temps while towing, I had to purchase a portable booster so I could perform the tow procedure the next morning. Three mornings! Once the temps got reasonable, all was well. The reason - the heater behind the rear view mirror was active the whole time the ignition was off and the car was in neutral. I know this because of the two bare spots on the windshield in front of the mirror while the rest was covered in snow and ice. I haven't gone to a dealer in Scottsdale yet as that is a 30 mile drive from where we are. ( Closest one). This didn't happen last year and all that has been changed is the reprogramming of the module that controls the A/C and defrosting items - seat heaters, side mirrors etc.- on remote start. My A/C button does shut the compressor off and on though. lol This might have to wait until I get back to cold temps in the spring "so the tech can verify the problem" as this one on the surface is really hard to display in the climate here. Or may be Ford will figure out they fixed one problem but created another in the process. I didn't check the voltage of the battery while "dead" but I doubt if it was fully discharged even though the car was totally black. The battery and car have performed as if nothing happened. I suspect there is a charge level below which the car kills everything as even none of the LEDs were lit.

The Energi site uses the same software and it is lightning fast by comparison. Maybe due to the sheer volume on this one.

In my post #8 I pasted a URL directly from what I had just watched (or so I thought). Somehow it gave the link to the previous video - the general one about Android auto. This is the specific link to the working model from the auto show. Everbody probably figured this out already from the related videos at the end, but I only realized it today when I went to send the link to a friend. Sorry for the misdirection, my bad. I don't think the car makers are showing favourtism to one O/S or another, I just happen to have a Droid. md13ffhguy showed Apple has been working on the same thing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OqLHO20eftM#t=362

Another video showing realtime usage in the display Hyundai. This will make the MFT maps obsolete overnight - for Android users :) Wonder if Ford will really do it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ht8yzpIV9M0

This was just announced at the LA auto show last week. Unfortunately you will have to have a Lollipop - android 5.x - capable phone. Hyundai is the first to announce compatability mid 2015 models. The first page indicates all the major players are onboard - including Ford! Basically it allows your phone to run a second display limited to allowable apps - Google Maps, Spotify, Tunein Radio, and a host of others. http://www.android.com/auto/ http://www.theverge.com/2014/11/19/7243621/android-auto-is-great-automakers-are-holding-it-back

There was a TSB referring to wind noise from the vertical bar dividing the front side window from the forward triangle. If yours is loose it might "flap" enough to generate that sound.

I don't remember the price breakdown, but I'll try and find the receipt. Seems to me they were fairly pricey but I think I got an all-in quote with no breakdown. Just an all inclusive big number. I'll look today.

The programming was done by the Ford dealer who guaranteed to match any price for the same tire including wheels and sensors and installation from any other company in town.

Not at home now, but I bought 16" winter tires because there's a far better and less expensive selection. Didn't notice any speedo error when they were on. Once programmed, you can change wheels at will without reprogramming the TPMS.

A lot of "typos" in the manuals as they have been modified from gas powered versions only. Electric motors do not like to be stalled ( brakes on) with full power apllied. The system is designed for one foot driving to avoid pressing accelerator while service brakes are still applied. If hill hold doesn't appear to work when used as per the manual - one foot brake and then transfer to accelerator- then it's a dealer visit.

Haven't flown a tail dragger for decades. Last was a Citabria in '74. Still keep the rubber side down.

Away on holidays. Just read this thread. My 2013 HyTi tows 4 down no miles added. Run for 1 minute , put in neutral, push button off. Do not put car in accessory position, just off. If this is a non hybrid titanium, maybe go to the Fusion forum not hybrid/energi.

I was just on the Roadmaster webpage and the 13/14 MKZ have no exceptions associated with ACC. Must have been just a Fusion problem only.

Mine was the first ACC hybrid. It wasn't known if the ACC would interfere, thus the guinea pig. As it turned out, with the addition of ACC, the shutter motor got touched by the stock hybrid right side baseplate, so they had to design new ones to get the clearance. They have an excellent installation facility in conjunction with their manufacturing. They employ full time installers and electrical guys for wiring. Glenda Apple was my contact there . She's the Bracket Design Coordinator. 1 800 669 9690 ext 104 6110 NE 127 ave, Vancouver WA, 98682

It is the Roadmaster factory in the eastern suburbs of Vancouver WA. I wasn't trying push one product over another, but just replying to the post about interference with the sensors. Firsthand experience with the Roadmaster plates hasn't lead to problems. I have to remove the front arms and spreader bar after towing as the sensors don't like all that steel hanging in front of them. They are the EZ twist lock variety so it only takes an extra 2 minutes. I already had a Roadmaster system on my motorhome but the primary reason was no manufacturer had installed on a HyTi FFH with ACC and Roadmaster was the closest. I got to be the guinea pig.

The torsion bars are different part numbers from stock ones. When I took mine in to have them installed, they hooked them on the "weaker" notch. Considering the TSB even has pictures specifying which notch to put them in, I found this quite sad. It was an improvement but not as good as the reinstall on the correct notch 2 days later.

If you're near Vancouver WA it would be worth a trip to their factory for installation. They do a great job and also did my lighting harness too.The Fusion hybrid with ACC photo on their webpage is actually my car.

I have 13 hyti and use Roadmaster towbar. They had to fabricate a new baseplateseries because I have ACC and collision warning. All works great as before installation.

GrySql, do you have anything plugged into the OBD2 outlet? I used a cheap elm327mini with torquepro app and after about 3 days it failed, but not before it turned on the dreaded yellow wrench and did really strange things with the regen braking system - like completely eliminate modulation with the pedal. I've never seen the SOC graphic rise so fast. I shut the car off, pulled the obd2 device and restarted and all was ok except for a stored code. The code in ET mode was gibberish and the Ford dealer dumped the memory to Ford head office and they couldn't make head nor tail of the data stream. They also suggested plugging devices in the OBD2 port can cause problems. Someone else had reported the same 6 character code that was undiagnosed in a previous thread. DTCs are normally only 5 characters. Not really a thread drift, just wondering if you had an ELM327 device in operation when your problem occurred.

Owner's guide, fuses, passenger compartment fuses, # 21 , humidity and in-car temp, hybrid

Somewhere I read that the Auto a/c has a humidity sensor. This would explain heat and cool at the same time to dehumidify. I'll try and find the source.