aschulz261

Mine has done it from day 1. It's like the engine takes awhile to turn off. I have always thought that under certain circumstances the ECU is "confused" as to which map it should be using. It doesn't do it every time and I have never figured out a specific of circumstances that will make it do it.

How old is the 12V battery? If it was sitting at a shop for a month without running it for awhile, the battery is junk. Yes, the "big "battery charges the "little" battery....but, only when the vehicle is running. When turned off, they are isolated from each other. Replace the 12V battery and you will be fine. I don't know about replacing the battery with an AGM or lithium. I had read years ago that there is a specific charging profile based on the type of battery. Unless you can change that profile, it won't charge "correctly". What that means, I don't know. What i do know, the factory battery is very small. It dies regularly because it's small. You can recharge it, but it's still damaged and needs to be replaced. The specific size is the only thing that fits in the battery tray without mods. Put a battery in it and call it a day.

Are you sure they are the right size? I believe there is a 26" and a 27" blade. I'm working off of memory here, but I believe there was a mention of that way back when this model came out in 2013

It wouldn't surprise me to see a speaker fix it. These cars have automatic noise cancelling that runs no matter if the radio is on or not.

The answer is simple. If you want to add performance.....not going to happen. The best thing to do is make sure there are low rolling resistance tires on it and they are properly inflated. There are people on here that have tried sportier tires and taken a good hit in mileage. What I have seen is that where I live (Hawaii) AC use on short trips absolutely KILLS the mileage. Long trips its negligible. You will find you usual controversies here about fuels and oils. I use the Motorcraft semi synthetic put in by the dealer and have no reason to try anything else. I also use 92 octane. I get about 1.5 mpg better using it. Does it pay for itself....no. But I would rather give the engine what it wants.

When the engine is being used for deceleration, there is no fuel being burned. It's a mode used by all gas engines called decel fuel cut off. Any time the throttle is closed and the vehicle is decelerating in any fuel injected car, the injectors are shut off. There is no indicator on the dash to tell you the engine is running. If you are in the empower or engage screen on the left side of the dash, the gauge turns from blue (battery power) to white, (engine power). If you press the hill descent control button on the shifter, you will see a yellow light on the dash turn on. That tells you the feature is active. With it off, there will still be regen on deceleration, but it is calibrated to feel like a normal car decelerating. With it turned on, the deceleration won't feel any different, it will just try to hold your speed if you are headed down a hill by increasing the amount of regen. With it turned on, once the battery is full, it will use the engine to try and hold your speed. This will result in pretty high engine rpms. With it turned off, I'm not sure what happens when the battery is full.

I believe it's called hill descent control. It lights a yellow light on the dash. I use mine daily where I live. It helps to maintain speed while going downhill to the max regen amount or until the battery is full. After that, it starts the engine and uses engine braking.

My guess would be that check engine light has something to do with it. You are going to need to get that looked at.

I have noticed that mine does it, but ONLY when in hill descent mode, the battery is full and the ICE is running to help maintain speed. It is not smooth at all when coming to a stop. It seems to be a rare set of circumstances that I don't think the programming is especially good at.

Sorry about that. my mistake. I didn't see the year.

uh......the battery is in the trunk. there are no air intake tubes to remove. You DO have to disassemble about half the trunk to get the thing out. The battery hold down is no issue at all.

I thought this was discussed several years ago. Sync is not updating. It has crashed and is rebuilding itself. It just sounds much nicer when it says it is performing scheduled maintenance.

This was discussed a few years ago. Yes, the car does get slightly better mileage with premium. Most people calculated that the difference in price did not make it worth the purchase. I disagree. It gets better mileage because it is able to advance the timing more, which makes the engine happier and more efficient. I always put premium in mine.

It is going to sound like an airplane taking off when you turn the AC on. Because it's a variable compressor, the noise dies down A LOT after it has been running for a few minutes.

Many people seem to think that the EPA figures are a guarantee of what kind of mileage a vehicle will get. This is just not true. It was meant to drive all vehicles (on a dyno , I believe) over a given set of aceleration and deceleration standards. This is only meant to be able to compare one vehicle against another. That being said, they FFH WILL get the advertised EPA numbers. You just won't want to drive it the way it needs to be driven to do so. In 2013, these same vehicles were rated at 47 mpg city, 47 mpg highway. The CAN do that, but the average human being actually driving in traffic can't. If you let the car do it's thing (which means slower speeds and some city driving) you will see that it can do about half of your miles on battery power, which will get pretty decent mileage. Any time the ICE is running and charging the battery, it's normal to see the mpg gauge sitting at 20 mpg. If the battery is full and the ICE is running, it's normal to see around 40 mpg. If you are driving a constant 70 mph for a distance, I would expect to see trip mileage around 40ish. Add in variables like temperature, rain, wind, AC, traffic, etc and it will be less.

If your car is driven daily, I don't think there is any big warning of a battery needing replacement. These cars don't need much to "turn on", so starting them isn't a problem. I think the biggest thing people notice is 1 of the following: 1. weird electrical issues. ie power window or door lock issues. 2. car goes in to battery saver mode on shutdown 3. battery just never seems to charge fully even after driving for an extended period.

This is what I keep in my glove compartment. The upside is that it does a lot more too. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016KVONGY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mine has done this since new. It happens when the engine is warm enough to enter EV mode, but not up to full operating temperature. You can see it on the tach, where it shows the engine at near idle for several seconds before it shuts off and you can see it on the EMPOWER screen, where the arrow shows it using electric power, the instant fuel economy showing 60+, but the gauge is white showing the engine is still running. My belief is that it is getting caught in a transition between maps in the software. There is nothing wrong, and there is nothing for Ford to fix. Is there a chance you are noticing it more now as the outside temps are dropping?

180-ish normally aspirated 2.0 liter is pretty decent. That's NOT going to happen with an Atkinson cycle. The modern versions that are being referred to "Atkinson" cycle engines are really a modified Otto cycle that simulate an Atkinson cycle engine. That is accomplished with variable valve timing. When a large amount of power is not required, BUT, the ICE needs to be running, it shifts to the Atkinson cycle for fuel efficiency. (This is most of the time the ICE is running in this car, btw) When a large amount of power is required, it shifts back to a normal Otto cycle for power.

The Atkinson cycle isn't a TRUE Atkinson cycle. It is an approximation accomplished by using variable valve timing to close the intake valve very late. It is purely for efficiency, not power. When the ICE needs to produce maximum power, the intake cam is rotated back to a more normal position.

My guess would be that in scenario #1, the engine is running in it's atkinson cycle and you will get some noise back through the intake because of that. In scenario #2, it's in it's power mode and the atkinson intake noise is gone.

No, the 12V battery does NOT start the engine. The HVB does through 1 of the motor/generators. If you are asking what the 12V battery is there for, it does EVERYTHING a 12V battery does in every other car EXCEPT run the starter motor, including powering the electronics that control the high voltage part of the drivetrain. If the 12V battery goes dead, the car can't start because the electronics won't power up. I don't understand your obsession with avoiding acronyms. If I understand you right, you want the hundreds of users of this forum to change their means of communication to accommodate a newcomer. How about you spend some time learning what these acronyms mean and join US in the conversations.

Just my $.02 says that the parking people did nothing wrong. These cars are notorious for having a dead battery when left inactive for several days. Especially if the battery is more than a couple of years old. It has been stated ad nauseum that the 12V battery in these cars is entirely too small and since there are soooo many electronics that put a draw on the battery when it's turned off, it kills the battery. Even in the manual, it states that if the vehicle is to be left for 3 weeks that the battery be disconnected, Fortunately, it doesn't take much to jump start them. I keep a portable battery pack in the glove compartment just in case this happens to me....again. It seems like the average life on the 12V battery is 2-3 years. $260 sounds pretty steep for a battery replacement. The only place you can get a 12V battery is from Ford and they are around $100-$125. And shutting the car odd with the AC on makes NO difference at all. That is one of the few things that actually turns off when you shut the car down. It goes without stating that you need to read the manual and become familiar with things like jump starting your car because it's different than a "normal" car. Expecting a parking attendant to know how to jumpstart a hybrid seems a bit of a reach to me.

I was never able to get mine reprogrammed either. I eventually gave up and took it the dealer and they programmed it with no problem. I'm wondering the fob I got off ebay had already been programmed to a car at one point and that was the problem. At this point, I have 3 working fobs, so you can have more than 2 for sure.

One of the byproducts of combustion is water. Once the car gets completely warmed up, the exhaust system is hot enough to burn off the water. Based on the short duration of your trip, the exhaust didn't get very hot leaving the water as a liquid which is draining from the muffler. It's perfectly normal.