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Looking for replacement 12v battery


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18 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   BlueZips

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Posted 25 March 2015 - 02:37 PM

Im trying to find a 12v battery similar to the ford battery but like an AGM. I don't think I want to buy a replacement battery from ford....Has anyone replaced theirs with a non-ford battery?









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#2 OFFLINE   murphy

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Posted 25 March 2015 - 03:36 PM

Im trying to find a 12v battery similar to the ford battery but like an AGM. I don't think I want to buy a replacement battery from ford....Has anyone replaced theirs with a non-ford battery?

My first try was with a Bosch BXT-96R-590 standard and larger battery.

It is described here:

 

http://www.fordfusio...tery/#entry7276

 

The short form is I removed the battery tray and cut the end off of it to make the Bosch fit.

 

Later I replaced the Bosch with an Optima D35 Yellow top AGM battery.

 

I do not get the battery saver messages because the voltage of an AGM stays higher as it discharges.

When the car sits unused for several days I hook up a battery charger to the 12 volt terminals under the hood to bring the battery back up.

I have seen it as low as 35%, according to my Schumacher battery charger, when left for a long time.

This is not a problem for a car that is driven daily.



#3 OFFLINE   Easy Rider

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Posted 25 March 2015 - 03:40 PM

Im trying to find a 12v battery similar to the ford battery but like an AGM. I don't think I want to buy a replacement battery from ford...

Are you sure that yours has failed ?

 

I think the OEM ones are AGM.

 

Is Ford's price too high for you ??

 

Have you called around to auto parts stores........or searched their sites online ??



#4 OFFLINE   murphy

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Posted 25 March 2015 - 04:09 PM

Are you sure that yours has failed ?

 

I think the OEM ones are AGM.

 

Is Ford's price too high for you ??

 

Have you called around to auto parts stores........or searched their sites online ??

The OEM battery is a standard wet cell lead acid starter battery.

It is a unique size that is not available from anyone but Ford.


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#5 OFFLINE   VonoreTn

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Posted 25 March 2015 - 05:14 PM

Im trying to find a 12v battery similar to the ford battery but like an AGM. I don't think I want to buy a replacement battery from ford....Has anyone replaced theirs with a non-ford battery?

I'm at 106,000 miles with my original 12 battery.   I've had the red dot showing for the last 30K miles, but it still holds at 10.5 volts at 100 amp load, 13v while driving.  


Regards from Knoxville, Tennessee area
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#6 OFFLINE   TonyHzNV

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Posted 25 March 2015 - 05:28 PM

And the most current Motor craft replacement battery part no. is BXT-99RT4-A.

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#7 OFFLINE   Easy Rider

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Posted 25 March 2015 - 05:45 PM

 

It is a unique size that is not available from anyone but Ford.

I'm sure that was true "yesterday" but that situation often doesn't last long.

If you haven't checked around recently, that statement might not be right.

And a slightly smaller AGM with similar capacity should work fine; better probably.

 

I'm at 106,000 miles with my original 12 battery.   I've had the red dot showing for the last 30K miles, but it still holds at 10.5 volts at 100 amp load, 13v while driving.  

 

The voltage while driving is meaningless for determining battery health.  That is the external charging voltage.

 

IIRC, the color change on batteries equipped with the "eye" indicated a low water condition and not necessarily a low charge.

BUT.....if you don't top up the water (electrolyte), it soon WILL be unhealthy (dead).

 

In this kind of application, that voltage when idle or at a light load is probably more important than the standard "load" test.

 

The OP has a car that is 4 years newer.  It might not have the same kind of battery.


Edited by Easy Rider, 25 March 2015 - 05:47 PM.


#8 OFFLINE   hermans

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Posted 25 March 2015 - 06:11 PM

I'm sure that was true "yesterday" but that situation often doesn't last long.

If you haven't checked around recently, that statement might not be right.

And a slightly smaller AGM with similar capacity should work fine; better probably.

Well....I decided to look around and not one of the auto parts giants carry a replacement 12v battery for the fusion hybrids. Looks like Ford may still be the only option.


Edited by hermans, 25 March 2015 - 06:12 PM.

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#9 OFFLINE   BlueZips

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Posted 26 March 2015 - 08:05 AM

I get BS messages every time I drive it. Ive tried to charge the battery with my battery tender overnight (or longer) but still get BS in the morning commute. I think its a matter of time before it dies...



#10 OFFLINE   murphy

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Posted 26 March 2015 - 11:02 AM

I get BS messages every time I drive it. Ive tried to charge the battery with my battery tender overnight (or longer) but still get BS in the morning commute. I think its a matter of time before it dies...

A battery tender is used to keep a fully charged battery fully charged.  It doesn't provide enough current to charge a low battery.  If your battery has ever been fully discharged the odds are high that it was permanently damaged.



#11 OFFLINE   BlueZips

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Posted 26 March 2015 - 01:50 PM

hmmm what would you suggest that I do Murphy?



#12 OFFLINE   murphy

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Posted 26 March 2015 - 02:02 PM

hmmm what would you suggest that I do Murphy?

Take it to your dealer and have them test the 12 volt battery with their battery tester.

 

Get a battery charger that can supply a minimum of 10 amps.  Mine is a Schumacher that can supply 30 amps.



#13 OFFLINE   BlueZips

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Posted 26 March 2015 - 02:12 PM

ok I will wait until I go to my parents house and use their charger


Edited by BlueZips, 26 March 2015 - 02:12 PM.


#14 OFFLINE   Easy Rider

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Posted 26 March 2015 - 03:34 PM

Well....I decided to look around and not one of the auto parts giants carry a replacement 12v battery for the fusion hybrids. Looks like Ford may still be the only option.

I went out last night and LOOKED at my battery.  Nothing remarkable about it.....except maybe that it appears to be a "low maintenance" type instead of a true "sealed main. free" type.  I could be wrong but it appears to be held in by a bolt and clamp at the bottom AND a fabric strap at the top.  

 

I still think that if you get the dimensions and AH rating, you should be able to find a suitable AGM replacement.  The posts look to be standard.

Not a perfect fit maybe but it looks to me like the strap on top would hold it in place even if the bottom clamp didn't engage completely.

 

 

I get BS messages every time I drive it. Ive tried to charge the battery with my battery tender overnight (or longer) but still get BS in the morning commute. I think its a matter of time before it dies...

And a very short time probably.

Murphy says: if and when it fails, it will be at the worst POSSIBLE place and time.

Edit: That is not the Murphy who is a member here.  :)


Edited by Easy Rider, 26 March 2015 - 03:36 PM.

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#15 OFFLINE   liv4spd

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Posted 29 March 2015 - 10:58 AM

Ford's OEM battery is the best PERIOD.

 

My 2008 Fusion still carries the original battery, and the car always start in the first crank. 



#16 OFFLINE   murphy

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Posted 29 March 2015 - 11:21 AM

Ford's OEM battery is the best PERIOD.

 

My 2008 Fusion still carries the original battery, and the car always start in the first crank. 

Your 2008 Fusion has a standard full size battery. 

The one in a hybrid is a small battery, sized to fit the available space, that has no where near the needed capacity.



#17 OFFLINE   Easy Rider

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Posted 29 March 2015 - 05:08 PM

Ford's OEM battery is the best PERIOD.

 

My 2008 Fusion still carries the original battery, and the car always start in the first crank. 

Well that's only 6 years; good but not great.

 

I can't really agree with your assessment.  The battery you have most likely really is a "low maintenance" conventional wet cell type and the industry consensus is that AGM is much better overall.......even considering the higher price in most cases.



#18 OFFLINE   RTimothy

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 06:42 AM

My first try was with a Bosch BXT-96R-590 standard and larger battery.

It is described here:

 

http://www.fordfusio...tery/#entry7276

 

The short form is I removed the battery tray and cut the end off of it to make the Bosch fit.

 

Later I replaced the Bosch with an Optima D35 Yellow top AGM battery.

 

I do not get the battery saver messages because the voltage of an AGM stays higher as it discharges.

When the car sits unused for several days I hook up a battery charger to the 12 volt terminals under the hood to bring the battery back up.

I have seen it as low as 35%, according to my Schumacher battery charger, when left for a long time.

This is not a problem for a car that is driven daily.

Good morning.

          You have helped me with installing breakaway switch and more. However, We towed the 13 FFH for two days and the battery was dead, dead at the end of each day. Did not use aux brake system. Bought a jump start gizmo at walmart and jump started it twice. The shop that installed the blue ox base plate neglected to include the charging wire as requested, but did not tell me. They told me when I called from the road with a dead battery. They also said that the umbilical cord should have been modified to have 12v from the rv on the center pin of it instead of the pin in the 3 oclock position. Also there is no wire from that center pin right now. That would have been part of installing the charge wire. I called ford national service. they said FFH owners use a product called toad charger. No other help.

Murph, if I have 12 v on the center pin of the embilical cord, can I have a wire run from that center pin to gthe jumpstrart lug on the FFH to keep the FFH battery charged while towing? 

                       Tim


Tim fm Ct

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in our "new" 2013 SE.


#19 OFFLINE   murphy

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Posted 22 September 2015 - 08:33 AM

I have never towed a car so I am not familiar with the connections.  I would expect that a special circuit, including a diode, is needed to make a charging connection to the towed battery.  If the towed battery is put in parallel with the RV battery when the RV needs significant current, such as for engine cranking, it will try to come from both batteries.  That high current will vaporize the small wire that was used for charging.  At a minimum there needs to be a diode in the wire run so current can only flow toward the towed battery but not back to the RV battery.

 

This appears to be what they were referring to:

 

http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B004RCXB8A

 

I only see two wires so it may just be a diode to do exactly what I was talking about.

 

Maybe someone else that has actually towed a vehicle will show up and comment.






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