Outlets don't power down like they used to

[GrySql]

I don't have Remote Start, just the standard key in steering column setup.

 

I've have a Garmin GPS connected to the forward console 12v outlet for 2 years.

When I'd turn the car off, remove the key and open the door that device would display a message that "This device will automatically shut down in 15 seconds" because all the 12v outlets would shut down quickly.

I added a high capacity, 12v/24W outlet splitter and ran just the single Garmin for months, same 15 second device power down - no change.

 

This week I added a DashCam to the second 12v outlet of the 12v console outlet power splitter and for 3 days they both did the fast shutdown.

Both devices work fine.

Shut off FFH, remove key, open door and devices shut down.

 

Today, that ended and I cannot get the 12v outlets to do a fast shut down, the Garmin and DashCam stay powered up for the full 70 minutes, then power off.

I have to manually shut them both off.

 

Any ideas what is going on?

Edited January 23, 2015 by GrySql
Input DC 12V / 24V compatible, USB Output:DC 5V 4.8A Max. or 24W

[murphy]

70 minutes to shutdown is normal. Immediate shutdown happens when the 12 volt battery is low as part of the battery protection protocol.

[GrySql]

70 minutes to shutdown is normal. Immediate shutdown happens when the 12 volt battery is low as part of the battery protection protocol.

Thank you, I just thought it had something to do with the key off/open door programming.

 

My Garmin has done the fast shutdown for 2 years. I've only had a BS message twice in that time.

I am also going to pursue getting another outlet splitter and disconnect a few things and see what that does.

[GrySql]

Well, today it's back to the rapid shutdown, go figure...

The 12v battery was deep tested by Ford Service two weeks ago at 367 CC.

I might get the new part number version 12v battery the next time I'm at my Dealer, gotta use my $48 Owners Advantage soon.

[GrySql]

We drove all over today and the GPS and DashCam were back to the fast shutdowm - remove key, open door, devices shut down.

 

My wife ran the 12v down listening to the radio today while waiting for me in the car (1/2 hour), the BS message showed just as I got back.

We stopped a few more times and it was still the fast device shutdown.

 

Interestingly, tonight I plugged in my OBDII ELM 327 Bluetooth Module to access the Torque Pro App and when I was done the situation reverted.

The ICE did run during my fiddling around.

After that the devices don't do the fast shut down, its back to the 70 minute rule and manual shut down.

I'm going to start using my power outlet 12v monitor to watch the 12v battery voltage.

 

Edit: Just hooked my big Schumacher digital battery charger/conditioner to the front 12v connectors. The 12v battery showed 55% @ 11.4v, not exactly inspiring.

Makes me wonder what the Ford Dealer was looking at two weeks ago. I'm letting it charge to see what the final reading will be.

Edited January 24, 2015 by GrySql

[murphy]

I find that the first reading from my Schumacher is bogus. The second or third reading is much higher. That said a lead acid battery taken that low has probably been damaged by material shedding from the plates. That is why I replaced my battery with an AGM battery which is designed to go to low charge levels without being damaged. I still get to low charge levels when the car sits for a week but it doesn't damage the battery.

[hybridbear]

That said a lead acid battery taken that low has probably been damaged by material shedding from the plates. That is why I replaced my battery with an AGM battery which is designed to go to low charge levels without being damaged. I still get to low charge levels when the car sits for a week but it doesn't damage the battery.

What is a reasonable level for the 12V to go down to without damage? Is 80% okay? 70%? I usually see the 12 V battery is our Energi at 80-100% depending on how much it's been driven and how much time it's spent unplugged for us to charge the Focus Electric.

[murphy]

80% should be okay.

 

If you feel you need a nap, read this.

 

http://www.progressivedyn.com/battery_basics.html

[GrySql]

I let it sit all night on a Battery Tender that showed green this morning.

I attached the Schumacher after that to see the readings, it showed 12.5v @ 59%.

I double checked that with my 12v outlet digital reader and it was similar - starting the car immediately shows the the voltage climb into the 14v+ range.
I’ll give it another go later but think replacing the battery is in the near future.

Thanks for the help.

[murphy]

The battery tender may not be up to the task. My Schumacher goes into battery maintenance mode (green light) when the charge is complete. If yours has that capability try that instead of the battery tender.

[GrySql]

The battery tender may not be up to the task. My Schumacher goes into battery maintenance mode (green light) when the charge is complete. If yours has that capability try that instead of the battery tender.

As you mentioned my big charger took two re-connections to get the right reading.

I just now checked the FFH battery with the Schumacher, it went into the maintenance mode (green) today with reading of 100% @ 12.7v.

My in-car 12v outlet reader had the same voltage and it's 'battery condition' light was yellow, not the optimal color of green.

 

Luckily, the car is driven a lot and the LVB stays topped off above the 10v disaster level.

[lesjoh]

On your post #5 you mentioned your wife listening to radio for 30 minutes before bs message. I have never been able to listen to music more than about two songs, then bs message. Dealer has checked battery a few times and reports it checks okay. Ideas?

[GrySql]

On your post #5 you mentioned your wife listening to radio for 30 minutes before bs message. I have never been able to listen to music more than about two songs, then bs message. Dealer has checked battery a few times and reports it checks okay. Ideas?

This car is driven frequently, that event was after about a 30 mile drive and I guess the 12v was topped up as much as possible.

That is not the case when the car has been sitting overnight, when I was installing the DashCam I had the accessory ignition on and off multiple time and got the BS pretty fast, had to start the motor.

 

Many of us believe this little 12v battery is the wrong type construction and size for these cars. I hope the new FFH battery (new part #) that just appeared in Ford Parts is better than these originals.

[corncobs]

This car is driven frequently, that event was after about a 30 mile drive and I guess the 12v was topped up as much as possible.

That is not the case when the car has been sitting overnight, when I was installing the DashCam I had the accessory ignition on and off multiple time and got the BS pretty fast, had to start the motor.

 

Many of us believe this little 12v battery is the wrong type construction and size for these cars. I hope the new FFH battery (new part #) that just appeared in Ford Parts is better than these originals.

I'm not so sure about the 12V being fine anymore when the car is driven enough and/or frequently.

 

Last instance for me was before Christmas after driving 150 miles the accessory mode wouldn't last for 5 min. You would think the LVB should've been fully charged but then it should've lasted longer then 5 min. If it was that long at all.

[GrySql]

I'm not so sure about the 12V being fine anymore when the car is driven enough and/or frequently.

 

I'm now carrying around my in-car 12v outlet monitor like gkinla did, going to check whats happening. There are so many variables with these cars.

Either way I intend to check that new version FFH 12v battery (BXT99RT4) and see if there is any change in it's capacity or construction.

Just a new part number ought to make it work better, right? :)

Edited January 26, 2015 by GrySql

[acdii]

I'm not so sure about the 12V being fine anymore when the car is driven enough and/or frequently.

 

Last instance for me was before Christmas after driving 150 miles the accessory mode wouldn't last for 5 min. You would think the LVB should've been fully charged but then it should've lasted longer then 5 min. If it was that long at all.

Keep in mind your car has also sat for weeks or longer while you were out of town. That can play a part in this. Mine is driven nearly every day, 2 hours or more, never had a BS, and I have had my radio going for nearly an hour, shutting off after 15 minutes each time. I dont play it in accessory mode though, I just hit the power button on it, so that could have something to do with it.

[corncobs]

Keep in mind your car has also sat for weeks or longer while you were out of town. That can play a part in this. Mine is driven nearly every day, 2 hours or more, never had a BS, and I have had my radio going for nearly an hour, shutting off after 15 minutes each time. I dont play it in accessory mode though, I just hit the power button on it, so that could have something to do with it.

True the weird thing was that I put it on my charger over night and still got the BS message 2 days later again.

[GrySql]

After a few days of watching my in-car outlet volt meter I see the pattern.

If my peripheral devices do a fast shut down after I shut the car off the 12v battery reads in the 11.8v or less area.

If they stay on the LVB reading is 11.8v or above.

My LVB never shows more than 12.6 volts when the key is off.

[murphy]

You may find this chart interesting.

 

www.mmbalmainauto.com.au/PDF/State_of_charge_12_volt_batteries.pdf

[GrySql]

How about that, my non-scientific testing sorta matched the chart.

Too bad, in a way I like them to turn off when I take the key out - LOL.

 

Sadly, this battery shows below 11.8v more often than it should.

The way it is charged by the cars system makes me wonder why it's lasted as long as it has.

 

I spent a lot of years using a hydrometer writing down each battery cell's specific gravity of my Fire apparatus batteries.

We'd chart them and when any cell dropped to 11.6v the battery would get replaced.

Edited January 29, 2015 by GrySql

[FrankQC]

The FFH ICE doesn't need to be running to charge the LVB. As soon as the ignition is in the "run" position, the HVB DC-DC converter powers up everything and charges the LVB but does not allow the car to be driven, because it has not been "started"... So if any of you wants to listen to the radio while charging the 12V battery without the ICE running, just leave it in the "run" position, not the "acc". The HVB can supply power for hours that way if there is a minimal charge on it.

 

I have the regular key, so that may not apply to start button equipped cars.

[acdii]

as long as you dont press on the brake, just tap the start button. It is the equivalent to run on the key based cars.