Dead Battery

[acdii]

My 2013 FFH 12v battery went dead again last week. I left the car at the airport for 6 days, and it was dead when I returned. This was after a 45 minute highway drive to the airport.

 

Everything turned on instantly (lights, etc), when the airport service person hooked up a battery pack, and the car started right up.

 

I'm still getting the battery saver message every time I shut off the car (except for immediately after my 45 minute drive home).

 

Whatever Ford suggested that my dealer service technicians try, it was clearly a blind shot in the dark.

If you haven't already get Ashley involved. These batteries don't go dead in 6 days unless something is drawing power. The dealer needs to tap the battery and see how much of a draw the system is using when the key is off. If they haven't replaced the battery, it should be.

 

These aren't THAT complicated! In fact, it is no different than any conventional car, the 12v system is a 12v system, Battery provided 13.5 Volts, turn on key, battery powers up the car. only real difference is this battery doesn't turn a starter motor, and the car uses a converter to charge it instead of an alternator. Load test the battery, load test the charging system, check current draw.

[James Sentman]

Car batteries cannot be deep discharged without destroying them. If it’s gone dead on you more than two or three times then the battery needs to be replaced or it’s going to keep doing it, and that time it will be the fault of the battery.

[Ric]

After six visits to the dealer, were still getting the battery saver message about 2 weeks after the battery is charged up. I'm just re-charging the battery every couple of weeks. I don't think Ford knows what to do -or- they know and it will cost to much for a recall, playing ignorant. Just like GM and their ignition issue.

[corncobs]

Well I agree with that there should be fix but comparing that to the GM ignition issue is not fair.

At least when the battery is dead you can drive which sucks but you can't get hurt either. If the ignition suddenly decides to turn off while driving your problems are much bigger.

[hybridbear]

After six visits to the dealer, were still getting the battery saver message about 2 weeks after the battery is charged up. I'm just re-charging the battery every couple of weeks. I don't think Ford knows what to do -or- they know and it will cost to much for a recall, playing ignorant. Just like GM and their ignition issue.

Have you involved Ashley?

[murphy]

Has the battery ever been completely dead? Lead-acid "starter" batteries are usually permanently damaged if they are completely discharged.

[mrobinso8]

They hope you will give up and accept a defective car. At a minimum they need to replace the 12 volt since they are unwilling to find the problem. I suggest you keep pestering and doing everything you can to make Ford spend money on the issue which I believe is the only way they will fix you car. Myself, after 3 batteries and other headaches are eagerly awaiting the time I can afford to replace my 2013 Hybrid with something that consistantly works.

[vett93]

Do a YouTube video!

[Ric]

:)

Edited May 1, 2014 by Ric

[Barsoom]

Status update: Dropped the car off at the dealer this morning. They agreed to replace the 12v battery this time. Finally!

 

They still want to run another round of diagnostics on it as a matter of course, so they will be keeping it all day. I expect to get it back by closing time.

 

I have a nagging suspicion that I did get one of the last of the bad batch of batteries (my build was Feb 6, 2013), but I also feel that there is still something systemically wrong with the 2013 FFH's, as evidenced by others reporting the same here (BS messages and dead batteries), and the absence of reports from the 2014 FFH owners.

 

At least I can remove the condition of the battery as a cause from further troubleshooting.

[inco]

I'm sure the dealer will do the right thing, but being a pessimist I would ask to see the old battery, maybe even keep it and use it to boost things now and then around the house, or other cars? Not your car, of course. ;)

[Barsoom]

Latest news: Yay!!! My battery failed the load test!!!

 

It seems kind of backwards to be celebrating news like that, but that's where the 2013 FFH has put me after a year of owning it.

 

The dealer replaced the battery and reset the system. For now, I no longer have the BS message. Let's see how long this lasts.

[acdii]

I know the feeling. I pretty much felt the same way after the BD fiasco and having gone through the trading, and other crap, then the replacement car worked perfectly and gets great gas mileage, and I am thrilled, See I told you so! Not me it was the car. Sad but true.

[lolder]

When I went to start my 2010 FFH the other day, the ready to drive green icons didn't come on. I turned it off and then on and it came "on". I left it on for 1 1/2 hours to charge. Later in the evening, it wouldn't start again AND wouldn't turn off for several seconds. Battery voltage was 10.7 vdc, a dead/shorted cell. I had put this battery in about two years after the cars delivery in 2009 and kept the OEM one for an emergency supply for my den. I put the old battery in ( now 5 years old ) and got it working OK until I got a new battery at Ford yesterday. The failed battery was 37 months old and they only charged me $44 instead of $118. I put the new one in and put the OEM one back in the den. The new one is showing the green ball for now, a rarity.

When things are screwy, suspect the 12 vdc battery first.

[djlock]

If you haven't already get Ashley involved. These batteries don't go dead in 6 days unless something is drawing power. The dealer needs to tap the battery and see how much of a draw the system is using when the key is off. If they haven't replaced the battery, it should be.

 

These aren't THAT complicated! In fact, it is no different than any conventional car, the 12v system is a 12v system, Battery provided 13.5 Volts, turn on key, battery powers up the car. only real difference is this battery doesn't turn a starter motor, and the car uses a converter to charge it instead of an alternator. Load test the battery, load test the charging system, check current draw.

 

12 v 6 cell LAB when new shows 2.2 volts per cell, so for a total battery voltage of 6x2.2v or 13.2v

[Heather Allred]

I found your original post and it was eerily similar to mine. I have been struggling these past 3 weeks. I have a 2013 Ford Fusion Energi Titanium. It has been wonderful. My typical routine is to plug it in at night time and go on my merry way come morning. A few weeks ago I went to leave work and when I got outside I couldn't get into the car. It was dead. My first move was to chance the key FOB battery. That wasn't the problem. I figured out how to open the door with the backup manual key in my fob and I got a jump. I was able to make it home. The next morning, dead. We took it to the dealer. He said he refreshed the modules. Started up fine. Took it to work. Came out at the end of the day, dead. Needed a jump. Took it to the dealer again. They had it for 5 days. I told them to pay attention to the sound of the fan running in the rear. It doesn't seem to stop and I thought this might be draining the battery. I told them about my charging routine so they could try to replicate the fault. They said they tried to replicate the fault and it wouldn't fail they also said they went ahead and reset the modules again. I picked up the car and had no problems except I ran an experiment. I did not charge my car for days. It ran and restarted with no problems. Last night I charged my car. This morning it was dead. I believe the fault lies somewhere in me charging that battery in the rear and some fan or some element is not shutting off when the charging is complete.... or something. I am furious at this point because I can't go on having to jump my car whenever I want to use it or whenever I want to charge it. I didn't pay for a car that has capabilities I cannot use. I am driving around with jumper cables in my passenger seat because I can't open the trunk when it's dead. I also am not locking my car for now because I am sure it will be dead when I go to use it this afternoon and I don't want to go through the trouble again of using the manual key. Can anyone offer insight? I am about ready to call and yell at the folks at Ford, call my car a lemon and demand a new rear battery and components. I am frustrated. Thanks for listening. Any insight or advice is appreciated. Also, is there an override to getting my car into neutral at all? That would be helpful when dead if I am in my garage...

[murphy]

Does MFM work? There are reports of the data transceiver, that connects to the AT&T cell network, getting into a state that runs down the 12 volt battery.

 

Has the TSB been done that insulates the wires in the trunk that are located just in front of the 12 volt battery? They can rub on metal and cause a short.

 

When charging of the HVB is complete the EVSE may remain connected to charge the 12 volt battery.

 

There is a way to open the trunk when the 12 volt battery is dead. Connect a small piece of rope to the emergency release handle for the trunk lid. Put the other end of the rope behind the fold down rear seats.

[TX NRG]

Since your 12V has drained a few times, and especially if it is the original battery, it should probably be replaced.

 

As Murphy asked, is your My Ford Mobile connecting ok?

 

It could be that your Telematics Control Unit/modem has gone bad and needs to be replaced in order to connect again to MFM. It will try repeatedly and drain your 12V battery if not plugged in and if your battery is old. There was a TSB 15-0028, later superseded by TSB 16-0023, to replace faulty TCUs that were causing drained 12V batteries. That TSB also involved insulating some cables in the left trunk coming from the 12V to the HVB fans. There is also an FSA 15N04 to replace the TCU/Modem with a 3G one and you can find that notice on your Ford owner account.

 

Mention the TSB and FSA to your SA if you get a new battery. I just went through this last weekend with my 2013 FFE.

[thrasher086]

A little over 2 years into owning the car now and began to have battery issues this weekend. I noticed Saturday during Christmas shopping, that the dashboard took 5 seconds to display when starting the car twice. I thought it was strange but didn't think it was anything serious. Sunday morning I go out to change the mats to all weather and I see MFT show the battery saving message. I go to start the car and nothing happens. Since it was Sunday, I could not go to any Ford service center since they were all closed. I had the car jumped from roadside assistance since I had to stop at one place for an hour. When going back to the car, it started but the dashboard took a long time and the chimes were harsh.

 

I went to an auto store and picked up one of those battery jumps knowing i'll have trouble the next morning. Good thing I did since the battery was dead this morning. I went right to the dealer before work. After waiting 2 hours, they said one of the cells went bad and replaced the battery under warranty. I noticed it is a MAX labeled battery so maybe it will be better.

[Thomz Fusion]

Thanks, this forum is helpful.

 

I have a 2013. Today I took a look at the lead-acid battery in my trunk, just to make sure the terminals aren't corroded in any way. All looks good, but it got me to wondering what life-expectancy I can anticipate out of the conventional battery. My vehicle is now about 4-1/2 years old.

 

I typically replace batteries before the 4th or 5th winter on my non-hybrid vehicles. But the conventional battery on the hybrid doesn't get much strain, since it isn't used to crank the engine.

 

Has anybody had any experience with a failure of the conventional battery?

[murphy]

The battery does not get hit with a high current draw since it is not used to start the engine. However if the car is not driven every day the continuous load of the computers, that are never turned off, can drag the battery down to a low charge level.. That is very bad for a starter battery, which is what Ford installed in the car. They should have installed an AGM battery but they cost a lot more. If your battery is still working after 4-/2 years you must be driving it every day. My car can sit for a week without being driven. I got rid of the "starter battery" in the fall of 2013 and put in an AGM battery. I use a smart, it knows what an AGM battery is, battery charger to keep the battery charged when the car is not being driven.

 

Have the battery load tested with at least a 100 amp load to gauge its condition.

[ptjones]

My 12v battery lasted 5yrs and if think 160K mi. :)

 

Paul