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aschulz261

Programming a new intelligent access key

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I'm hoping someone can help me out with this. I recently got a new unprogrammed intelligent access fob to use as a spare. Looking in the owners manual and reading the instructions there, I just can't seem to get it to program the new key.

 

I still have both factory keys (key 1 and key2)

 

the procedure I am using is the following:

 

insert key 1 into slot in console (keyring facing up, buttons facing the rear). wait 5 seconds

push START/STOP turning the car on

remove key 1 and replace it with key 2

push START/STOP turning the car off

wait 5 seconds

push START/STOP turning the car on

remove key 2 and replace it with unprogrammed key

wait 5 seconds

push START/STOP turning the car off

 

the owners manual says it should be programmed at this point. But nothing happens. I don't get any messages on the dash saying it succeeded, failed, or even attempted anything. The START/STOP button doesn't do anything unusual during this process(blinking, pulsing, etc)

 

I read somewhere that it should unlock the doors and flash the lights when the programming has succeeded. Obviously, I don't get that either.

 

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

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Are both of your keys admin keys?

I would not expect it to work if one of them was a MyKey.

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Did you verify the new fob has a good battery? Sometimes it can be the simplest things.

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I have no MyKeys set and I have swapped the batteries between remotes and still no luck.

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I have no MyKeys set and I have swapped the batteries between remotes and still no luck.

The batteries should not matter since putting the key in the slot allows the chip in the key to be read directly.

 

Take the batteries out of a good key and see if it will operate the car when placed in the slot. Make sure the other keys are out of range. Maybe the chip reader in the slot is broken.

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I'm hoping someone can help me out with this. I recently got a new unprogrammed intelligent access fob to use as a spare. Looking in the owners manual and reading the instructions there, I just can't seem to get it to program the new key. ...

 

Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong?

 

It sounds like you're doing everything right, aschulz261. If these guys can't troubleshoot you through it, your dealer is going to be the best bet. If you're still looking for help after that, send me a PM with your name, phone number, VIN, mileage, and dealer info, and I'll have someone give you a call.

 

Ashley

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Did you have the doors closed before and during the whole procedure? It's mentioned before the instruction steps.

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To all those who have tried to program a spare Intelligent Access key in a 2014 (probably 2013 also) Fusion Hybrid using the instructions in the Owner's Manual (pages 62-63 for the 2014):

 

The instructions in the manual are incomplete. In the last step (new key in console slot), press the START button TWICE instead of just once.

 

I wasted a lot of time (several hours) trying to program a key, thinking that I was somehow failing to get the timing just right, when I found the missing info posted by TechOps in post #6 of:

http://www.blueovalforums.com/forums/index.php?/topic/53691-programming-extra-key-fob-for-fusion-energi-titanium/

 

 

So the procedure that worked for my 2014 Fusion SE Hybrid (and probably works for all 2013-2014 with Intelligent Access) is:

 

Power off, doors closed, need 2 programmed keys plus 1 key that you're going to program.

 

1. INSERT first programmed key in the center console key slot, key ring on top, buttons facing the rear.

 

2. WAIT 5 SECONDS, then PRESS THE START BUTTON.

 

3. REMOVE the first key.

 

4. INSERT second programmed key in the center console key slot, key ring on top, buttons facing the rear and PRESS THE START BUTTON.

 

5. WAIT 5 SECONDS, then PRESS THE START BUTTON again.

 

6. REMOVE the second key.

 

7. WAIT 5 SECONDS, then INSERT the new key in the center console key slot, key ring on top, buttons facing the rear and PRESS THE START BUTTON TWICE.

 

 

I ended up programming two new (well, used from Ebay) keys this way. Takes about 20 seconds each time. ;)

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Interesting, were they keys you received wiped first? I tried to add the spare key from my wrecked Flex to my MKT and it didn't work. I followed the same steps above too. The dealer was able to get it added by using their computer to wipe the key while in the slot first. From what I read it has to be an "unprogrammed" key.

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I don't know if they were 'wiped', but I doubt it. They were both used keys bought on Ebay. I doubt if the previous owner/seller would have gone to the trouble.

 

PS -

For future reference, is there a way to unprogram a key without taking it to the dealer?

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There is no storage that can be changed in an OEM IA key. The IA key has a unique serial number. Programming a key to a car is simply storing the unique serial number in the car's key memory.

 

The locksmiths that can clone a key have special blanks that can have their serial number changed. They copy the serial number of a working key to the clone key.

 

It should be possible to program the same key into two cars.

The logistics of actually using that key could be tricky.

Remote start two cars at the same time.

 

After endless attempts to program a third key I had to have my dealer do it.

 

The only way to unprogram a key is to have the dealer wipe the key memory in the car and then program in the keys that you want.

 

This whole procedure was so much easier in my 2010 Hybrid. The spare key programmed the first time I tried it.

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There is no storage that can be changed in an OEM IA key. The IA key has a unique serial number. Programming a key to a car is simply storing the unique serial number in the car's key memory.

 

The locksmiths that can clone a key have special blanks that can have their serial number changed. They copy the serial number of a working key to the clone key.

 

It should be possible to program the same key into two cars.

The logistics of actually using that key could be tricky.

Remote start two cars at the same time.

 

After endless attempts to program a third key I had to have my dealer do it.

 

The only way to unprogram a key is to have the dealer wipe the key memory in the car and then program in the keys that you want.

 

This whole procedure was so much easier in my 2010 Hybrid. The spare key programmed the first time I tried it.

 

Umm I don't know if you have one with Remote start, but they are two way keys now. The LED turns green when the car starts, or red if it didn't respond. The key doesn't get "programmed", but is tagged with the cars ID so it can receive the remote start signal. The Fob for the Flex though doesn't have that feature, but is still tagged to match the car.

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Holly cow, I never noticed the LED before, but just checked and my Fusion does have it. Wow, learn something new every day.

Edited by Waldo

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Dan is right. You have to hit the start button twice at the end. Note that when you hit the button the second time, nothing will happen for a few seconds, then the doors will lock and the lights will flash. If you mess up, the information bar on the left will say key programming error. Thanks.

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I had problems like others programming a an access remote that I ordered on ebay. Looked factory new and couldn't get it to program. The sequense I found here finally got it to program in after I was ready to send it back. The programming sequense is important and pressing the button twice at the end had to be done within 1 to 2 seconds of each other or it won't work. I'm very happy this worked and others had figured this out! Thank you!!!

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I wanted to share my experience because I had a lot of trouble too getting an ebay key to pair with the car. This took around 10 tries with various techniques before I think dumb luck struck.

 

I first used the info from the ford site:

http://owner.ford.com/how-tos/vehicle-features/locks-and-security/how-to-program-your-intelligent-access-key.html/?model=Fusion%20Hybrid&year=2014

Three times with no response close to what I'd expect and I decided this wasn't correct. (nice try on the help ford, but thanks for the red herring)

 

Then I checked here. Excited to see Dan's steps I tried those several times and continued to fail

.

I then resorted to RTFM and followed those steps, which is basically what's described in the manual with Dan's extra start press:

1) inset factory key 1 in key copartment in console,

2) press start/stop

3) wait >3 sec but <10,

4) press start/stop

5) remove key

6) insert factory key 2 and repeat steps 2-5

7) insert new key

8) press start, system seems dead (ie no response)

9) press start

 

I was greeted with "no key found" after the first couple of attempts. I was questioning the key I had purchased, but I didn't give up.

I decided to try pressing the key against the forward wall of the basket in case distance was preventing it from being found. That little basket creates a fairly tight fit but it was worth a try.

 

I discovered mid-sequence pushing the key forward required some arm repositioning to get my left arm in the console to keep the right free for the start/stop. After repositioning, I pressed start and while I doing the momentary pause before the second press the hazzards flashed. That was totally unexpected, then the display read "key programmed". My second press actually turned the car off.

 

I'm not sure the two presses are required, they may be. But maybe giving the new key a chance to settle and get reconized before pressing start is the trick. Just something to try for anyone caught having problems (re)programming a new key.

 

 

This process raised a question, as murphy pointed out it seems the key ID is stored in the car rather than the car ID in the key. This makes sense, it's like pairing a key to a car rather than the other way around. So, while I don't think any other key that was part of an original facotry pair from their original keys would work on my car, wouldn't the key i got still work on the original car unless all keys are wiped from that car?

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I just easily programmed a new key with the steps in my previous post. The most difficult part was locating the second original key! Thanks for all the help guys.

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This process raised a question, as murphy pointed out it seems the key ID is stored in the car rather than the car ID in the key. This makes sense, it's like pairing a key to a car rather than the other way around. So, while I don't think any other key that was part of an original facotry pair from their original keys would work on my car, wouldn't the key i got still work on the original car unless all keys are wiped from that car?

 

Yes that key would still work in the original car if its key memory hasn't been cleared.

 

I have a theory that the same key could be programmed into two cars that you own and be used to drive either one. I have no way to test that theory.

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I just spent 40 minutes trying this on my 2017 -- programming a 3rd key. Still no mention in the 2017 owner's manual about the "2nd start button press on the last step."

Regardless, it didn't matter in my case. I don't think the 2nd press is necessary. Surely they would have corrected the manual by now.

Is it safe to assume that only two remotes will ever be active at once?

I'll go to the dealer, but I'm sure they won't be able to program a 3rd key. I think Ford engineers purposely made the sequence so convoluted that few humans could ever do it. The time frames are ridiculous. There's absolutely no reason why the software needs such timing. There's a sequence, do the sequence (without the silly timings), let the software keep track of the sequence, same result whether it takes a user 20 seconds or 1 minute to complete. And yes put a timeout for the whole process if necessary so the engineers can advertise "real time programming" (not even close) on their resumes.

 

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Even funnier for 2017, completely different steps on https://owner.ford.com/how-tos/vehicle-features/locks-and-security/how-to-program-your-intelligent-access-key.html, than in the owner's manual:

  • Before you start

    There are a few things you should do before starting step 1:

    • Read the locks and security information in your owner’s manual.
    • Have two previously programmed Intelligent Access keys inside the vehicle and your unprogrammed Intelligent Access key readily available.
  • Put the new unprogrammed Intelligent Access key in the center console pocket.

  • Press the driver or passenger power door unlock control three times.

  • Press and release the brake pedal once.

  • Press the driver or passenger power door lock control three times.

  • Press and release the brake pedal once.

    The indicator on the Start/Stop button should begin to flash quickly, indicating that the programming mode has been entered and two programmed Intelligent Access keys have been detected in the vehicle.

  • Within one minute, press the Start/Stop button.

    A message will be displayed on the message center indicating that the new Intelligent Access key was programmed.

  • Remove the Intelligent Access key from the center console pocket and press the unlock control on the newly programmed Intelligent Access keys to exit the programming mode.

  • Verify that the new Intelligent Access key’s remote entry functions operate by pressing lock, then unlock, and then starting the vehicle.

    Your new Intelligent Access key is ready to use.

 

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I was never able to get mine reprogrammed either. I eventually gave up and took it the dealer and they programmed it with no problem. I'm wondering the fob I got off ebay had already been programmed to a car at one point and that was the problem.

 

At this point, I have 3 working fobs, so you can have more than 2 for sure.

I just spent 40 minutes trying this on my 2017 -- programming a 3rd key. Still no mention in the 2017 owner's manual about the "2nd start button press on the last step."

Regardless, it didn't matter in my case. I don't think the 2nd press is necessary. Surely they would have corrected the manual by now.

Is it safe to assume that only two remotes will ever be active at once?

I'll go to the dealer, but I'm sure they won't be able to program a 3rd key. I think Ford engineers purposely made the sequence so convoluted that few humans could ever do it. The time frames are ridiculous. There's absolutely no reason why the software needs such timing. There's a sequence, do the sequence (without the silly timings), let the software keep track of the sequence, same result whether it takes a user 20 seconds or 1 minute to complete. And yes put a timeout for the whole process if necessary so the engineers can advertise "real time programming" (not even close) on their resumes.

 

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Programming a fob to a car does not modify the fob. The serial number of the new fob is stored in the car's key memory.

I have three fobs programmed to my 2013.

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Thanks men. I got it. Went out with tablet and Ford owner site procedure listed, didn't work. Tried it 3 times, no go.

Went back to owner's manual, and maybe I was trying to be too precise with the "5 seconds" by trying to remove at precisely 5 seconds. So I figured I'd wait at least 7 seconds. Put the 3rd one in and finally it took. And yes, the missing 2 successive push start presses are indeed needed at the end.

Once I did all that, with the 3rd fob laying in the slot, the start button was flashing rapidly, and I believe the last step is to press the 3rd remote unlock button. The start button quit flashing, and in the left hand cluster display it said "programmed successfully" -- something like that.

All 3 now work.

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