Just my curiosity, I wanted to see what my spark plugs looked like at 14,000 miles.
The '13's engine cover and air intake bolts needed a 7mm socket. The COP bolts were 8mm.
I used a magnetized 5/8" spark plug socket w/ a 8" extension for the deep seated SP's.
Leave the air filter in place.
The cover is held on with 2-7mm bolts, an electrical plug, a push-in zip-tie mount, the air intake hose (2 SS clamps) with 2-7mm air intake bolts and 4 rubber anti-vibration rubber mounts. Once all is loosened, released or removed, an easy tug upward releases the grip on the rubber anti-vibration mounts and the whole engine cover comes off.
Note: I left the electrical plug connected and just flipped the engine cover over (upside down) on to the Traction Motor while I changed plugs.
As mentioned in another thread, once the cover is off the spark plugs are easy to access, remove the 8mm COP bolts, pull the COP Boot off, remove the plug and replace with new.
The spark plugs I used were Motorcraft SP531, exactly what is in the car.
I used nickel based anti-seize on the new spark plug threads because of the Aluminum block.
There was plenty of dielectric grease inside the COP Boot so I didn't add any additional.
My conclusion was: why bother? My spark plugs looked almost new, very little soot except on the rim.
I will have to assume my car is running normal.
I think mine are the way they should be, not sooty like other members have shown here.
I put the new ones in anyway, heck, I already did all that work to look at them. I'll save the the old SP's, for some obscure reason.
With the proper tools the whole job took less than 1 hour, once I had identified the removal procedure.
(That included the ride up and down my street to see if everything worked.)
This project was for my interest only and I take no legal responsibility if you try this. Do at your own risk.
The old spark plugs:
Engine cover guide.
Edited by GrySql, 26 September 2013 - 11:35 PM.