Jump to content
mrobinso8

TSB 13-7-11 Battery Saver Message

Recommended Posts

Been having continuing problems with the Battery Saver Message and unable to use radio in accessory mode. Also, car would not start Sunday and had to charge battery. Took car in today thinking the 12 volt battery was bad since I had the upgrade charging TSB done the first of May. Car was checked and the service advisor said all was well except they had a new TSB to again attempt to fix the problem. They "Charged battery and performed TSB 13 - 7 - 11 Reprogrammed modules for not allowing battery to charge." I hope this works!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It is too early to tell. The TSB is not actually for my car but my car displayed two error code. Those codes told mechanic to apply this tsb. It took 3 weeks from TSB 13-5-1 application to get the battery saver message back. Since I have been complaining about the weak battery, had replaced once, I think they put a good charge on the battery as part of the job. I have my doubts. The service manager and mechanic both told me not to put in a bigger battery since the technological marvel will only function with the battery Ford put in the car. Do not believe them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The service manager and mechanic both told me not to put in a bigger battery since the technological marvel will only function with the battery Ford put in the car.

IMHO that is total nonsense. It's a standard lead acid wet cell battery in a small case with a low reserve capacity. Putting in a bigger battery is difficult because a bigger battery will not fit in the battery tray.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You know, some forum member DID put in a much larger capacity LVB and discussed how it was done.

Unfortunately, I can't find it now.

Maybe someone can do a better search than I did and find that post.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could probably get a tray that would fit a new battery. Then replace the tray in the car. I also could find no post of someone doing the swap on a Fusion Hybrid.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If you try to replicate what I did, don't blame me if it doesn't work for you. You assume all responsibility for the modification to your car..

 

I just did it for the second time today. This time I got a better fit.

I had a Bosch BXT-96R-590 battery that I bought in January before I knew the car existed.

It must be an "R" battery so the positive post is at the front of the car.

I did it "hot" with another battery connected to the terminals under the hood.

It is absolutely essential to completely insulate the positive battery cable, once it is removed from the old battery, to prevent it from touching any metal.

 

If you are not comfortable working "hot" don't do it hot.

 

Some functions of the car will have to be reprogrammed and the computer will have to relearn the ICE operating parameters if not done hot.

 

Empty out the trunk so nothing is in your way.

Remove the floor covering.

There are two plastic pins in the plastic piece that runs across the back edge of the trunk. Pop both of them out.

Pull straight up on the plastic piece and note the spring clips that hold it in place. Put it aside.

Unscrew the plastic knob at the left bottom of the trunk. I assume it is the lower attachment for a cargo net.

Unscrew the plastic piece at the upper left. It may be a cargo net knob or it it may be a simple piece of plastic.

Remove the battery door.

Find and remove the plastic pin that secures the battery area fiber panel to the upper left side of the trunk.

Push forward on the fiber to lift it off the two bolts that the plastic knobs were on.

Fold the fiber section toward the front of the car to reveal the battery.

Remove the bolt that secures the battery wedge in place.

All bolts and nuts in this area are metric sizes.

Unplug the vent tube from the battery.

Loosen the negative battery cable and remove it from the battery post.

Lay it on the floor of the trunk.

In the following step be absolutely certain that the wrench does not touch any metal parts of the car.

Loosen the positive battery cable and remove it from the battery post.

If you are working hot, insulate the battery cable so no part of the connector is visible.

I wrapped it with copious amounts of cloth.

Remove the nut that secures the two ends of the battery strap together and separate them.

Lift the battery out of the car.

Move the vent plug from the front of the old battery to the front of the new battery.

The battery tray is held by three bolts.

I removed the battery tray from the car and cut the rear end out of it. Two short vertical cuts and one long horizontal cut.

The new battery now fits snugly into the tray. Test the fit before putting the tray back into the car.

Bolt the modified tray into the car and install the battery.

Connect the positive battery cable to the battery.

Connect the negative battery cable to the battery.

If working hot, disconnect the auxiliary battery.

It is not possible to use the bolted wedge clamp to hold the battery.

The strap that bolts together around the battery fits fine.

Plug the existing vent tube into the rear vent of the new battery.

Put the fiber wall and the plastic trim back in place.

 

If this sounds complicated get help or don't try it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Murphy, that does not sound to hard. Did the different battery fix the "battery saver message" problem. Thanks for the details.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Murphy, that does not sound to hard. Did the different battery fix the "battery saver message" problem. Thanks for the details.

It's too soon to say. I just did it yesterday and haven't driven the car yet.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Murphy, Just went to car. The TSB 13-7-11 did not work. Have battery saver msg again. Checked some of the posts. Did you put in a bxt-96r-590 or a bxt-99r-590? Where did you buy which ever one you put in it? Please keep informed as time goes buy if the replacement Bosch battery worked. Thanks for your efforts. Book for 2013 and 2014 both call for a BXT-96r-500 or 590 and my car has a BXT-99r-300. Something is not correct. What is being replaced by what?? Thanks again. Sorry I am so confused. Blame on car and dealer.

Edited by mrobinso8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Murphy, Just went to car. The TSB 13-7-11 did not work. Have battery saver msg again. Checked some of the posts. Did you put in a bxt-96r-590 or a bxt-99r-590? Where did you buy which ever one you put in it? Please keep informed as time goes buy if the replacement Bosch battery worked. Thanks for your efforts. Book for 2013 and 2014 both call for a BXT-96r-500 or 590 and my car has a BXT-99r-300. Something is not correct. What is being replaced by what?? Thanks again. Sorry I am so confused. Blame on car and dealer.

The battery called out in the owners manual is for the gasoline only Fusion. It's sloppy editing since the gasoline only Fusion has a different Owner's Manual. The correct battery, according to Ford, for the Hybrid and Energi is the BXT-99R-390. I put in a Bosch BXT-96R-590 that I bought at Pep Boys in January 2013. It is a longer battery that requires modification of the battery tray with a saw to make it fit. See post #7 for what it took to make it fit. I have not used the car since I installed the battery (fully charged). This morning for the first time since I've owned the car I was able to turn just the radio on and have it and the 12 volt power ports come on and stay on instead of going immediately into battery protection mode. It will be at least a week before I am sure that the bigger battery made a difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Murphy thanks. Awaiting weekly status reports! If yours works out for 3 or 4 weeks will do the same on mine though it hurts to buy a battery for a car less that a year old. That would save the frustration of the dealer saying all is well. The swap to a new battery looks like a piece of cake. Will call tomorrow and inform dealer of continuing problem and a fix that did not.

Edited by mrobinso8

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have been getting battery saver message as soon as I open the car door until this morning. Now totally dead. Waiting for Roadside Assistance to jump it so I can take it to the dealer and see if it has the same error codes that had them apply TSB 13-7-11. Service Manager said may try another 12 volt battery. Hope Murphy has had good luck with his fix.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hope Murphy has had good luck with his fix.

It has been 6 days since I installed the bigger battery. There have been no battery messages. The power ports continue to stay on for over an hour when the car is shut down. With the old battery they shut down the instant I opened the door.

:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great Murphy. You are more qualified than apparently most Ford dealers and the factory. I just spent day and so far just a recharged battery. Some modules tested not normal so awaiting response to "Hotline" query. Tuesday afternoon back for new battery and response from Ford. They do not believe the small battery is the problem. I asked them to just put in what the book calls for.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In response from Ford Hotline the error codes were due to loss of power. No hint given on how to fix loss of power or the problems with the car. Dealer did replace the 12 volt battery but not a larger one so have doubts.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sep 12 battery saver message again. Email from my email complaint that stated that " our Ford Regional Customer Service Manager " will contact you in 2 business days Tue, 10 Sep. Emailed again yesterday tell of dead battery on the 7th, day after first email sent. Replied to email this morning to tell them I have heard nothing and still the same. Nothing from them and a Sick car. Seriously thinking of going back to boring which always starts, Honda. Frustrated :rockon: Hope Murphy is doing well with the bigger battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

For the past two weeks I get the BS message whenever I turn the key off, but this has never resuted in the car not starting. The HVB is used to start the ICE. How many times have you had the FFH not start?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Three times no start. I had been charging battery when the Battery Saver message came on the center screen immediately when the door was opened. That was happening after a week or so of getting the message when the switch went to accessory mode when starting or shutting down. Later the message starts when door opened which indicates the battery is in worse shape. I was sick of charging so let it go and was rewarded with a totally dark car. No lights of any kind and if doors had been locked fob would not of unlocked. Yes the HVB starts the car but the 12V activates the relays, etc which tell the HVB to start the car. The Regional Customer Service Manager is suppose to contact the Field Service Engineer about my battery problems and let me know be next Wednesday.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Many of us have been having the BS message problem. My dealer also refuses to believe that it's the battery. In my case, I was out of town for two weeks, and the car was dead when I returned. Something is slowly draining the battery over time.

 

I am a short-hop local driver. My commute is 3.6 miles on surface streets through a business park with several stop lights. Very little highway driving of any distance that would keep the battery charged on a regular basis.

 

I resorted to trying a Black and Decker home battery charger to see how long after receiving a full charge the car would go before the messages started again. I think it was about 2 weeks before the message would return.

 

Lately, I am trying a new experiment. Instead of putting in a larger battery, I suction-cupped a Sunforce 12V 1.8 watt solar panel battery maintainer/trickle charger to the rear window and clamped the alligator clips to the posts on the 12V battery. The car sits in the parking lot all day in sunny northern California, so I figured that the trickle charger would top off the battery while I was working all day.

 

I can say that I haven't seen the BS message lately, but I also just returned from an 800 mile trip to southern California two weeks ago, plus did a few 90 mile round trips to SFO airport and Santa Clara from the east bay, so the battery is probably pretty charged right now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know if this means anything, but back in late June we went on a road trip for 4 weeks, so the 2013 Ford Fusion Hybrid SE sat on the driveway not being used and we had rented a Toyota Sienna, because the FFH was not going to accommodate all the luggage on a 4 week trip. When we got back in late July the FFH started right up but the usual battery message appeared so all I did was hook it up with a battery charger and haven't seen the message again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It has been bothering me lately that every time I open a door on my FFH, whether it be night or day, all the lights, inside and out, come on and stay on for a significant amount of time. This has to contribute to the 12v battery problems we're having. I would like to see Ford connect the parking and puddle lights (and maybe some of the inside lights) to the same daylight threshold sensor that is used for the headlights. This would have to help out the 12v battery.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The inside lights can be disabled from turning on when the doors are opened.

When the car is locked the outside lights turn off immediately.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

B25Nut - What you say makes sense. Also, for a test I set my headlights to auto with turn off at 3 minutes. Did this when I was getting battery saver message immediately when opening door or if car was used when turning off key. Well, not enough power for the radio but the headlights stayed on. Murphy, as his test of a larger battery has shown, is correct that the issue is the size of the 12 volt battery. Ford could have done a better job of programming also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The inside lights can be disabled from turning on when the doors are opened.

When the car is locked the outside lights turn off immediately.

I'm not going to play around with turning that switch on and off. I know that at least half the time they would be set to off when I really needed them on. This also leaves the outside lights on, which bothers me more. Also, I never lock my car at home, and I don't carry the key in my pants that I usually wear around the house. If I need to get something out of the car, I don't want to get to the garage and think "darn, I don't have the key". Also, many times my wife gets to the car first. If the door is locked, there's hell to pay (fingernails have been known to be broken). I'll put up with the BS message instead of dealing with these issues.

Edited by B25Nut

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...