TSB 13-5-18 - LUGGAGE COMPARTMENT LID WILL NOT STAY OPEN - BUILT ON OR BEFORE 5/2/2013

[neod192]

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Ford_Content/pubs/content/~WT/~MUS~LEN/3632/tsb13-05-18.htm

 

ISSUE:

Some 2013 Fusion vehicles equipped with a rear spoiler and built on or before 5/2/2013 may exhibit a concern of the luggage compartment lid will not stay open.

 

I had this done last week and it did what it was supposed to do. Unfortunately, it also made the trunk harder to close. When it's almost closed after it pushed down the plastic cover over the latch it feels like it hits something before it latches. If I apply more pressure it latches closed, but it's definitely harder to close now.

 

Before I had this done, the trunk would latch closed extremely easy and my wife even questioned if it was actually latched. I really like that ...

 

Anyone else had this done? Are you experiencing the same side-effects as me?

[jeff_h]

I was thinking of having this TSB done on my wife's Energi as popping the trunk will only make it raise about an inch... now re-thinking whether to have them mess with it.

[neod192]

I was thinking of having this TSB done on my wife's Energi as popping the trunk will only make it raise about an inch... now re-thinking whether to have them mess with it.

I'm not sure if it'll make it raise higher when you pop it open. It'll definitely keep it open and won't bang your head as often :)

[murphy]

Mine pops open much further than before the new torsion bars were installed.

I have no trouble latching the lid.

[neod192]

Mine pops open much further than before the new torsion bars were installed.

I have no trouble latching the lid.

I wonder if they messed something up ... When I pointed it out to they they said all they did was change the torsion bar and it's completely normal ... I wanted the TSB applied so I have to live with it ...

[hermans]

Edit

Edited August 1, 2013 by hermans

[neod192]

I'm also starting to notice a slight rattle coming from the trunk area when I go over bumps. This started after the dealer did this TSB ... I wonder what they broke this time!

[murphy]

I'm also starting to notice a slight rattle coming from the trunk area when I go over bumps. This started after the dealer did this TSB ... I wonder what they broke this time!

Check the torsion bars at their center where they will touch if the separator was left out.

[neod192]

Check the torsion bars at their center where they will touch if the separator was left out.

Good point. I'll check next time I get in the car. Also noticed the original bars were painted blue (same as the car) and the new ones aren't painted at all. Are yours also not painted?

[neod192]

So I checked and the separator is there BUT they put it on the bottom bar instead of the top one! I'm pretty sure the top bar hits the car when I go over bumps.

 

Before the TSB:

 

After the TSB:

[murphy]

Good point. I'll check next time I get in the car. Also noticed the original bars were painted blue (same as the car) and the new ones aren't painted at all. Are yours also not painted?

Mine are not painted but they are close to the same color as the rest of the metal in that area.

[murphy]

So I checked and the separator is there BUT they put it on the bottom bar instead of the top one! I'm pretty sure the top bar hits the car when I go over bumps.

 

Before the TSB:

 

After the TSB:

It belongs on the top bar.

Given the bends on the ends of the bars it would have to come already installed on the bar which means they put the bars in the wrong location.

 

On my car the rubber sleeve rests against the underside of the rear deck in addition to keeping the bars from touching each other.

 

Here is a link to the installation instructions.

The part number for each bar is given.

If the tags are still on the bars you may be able to check the part number to see if the bars are in the correct location.

 

The installation instruction is very terse. Reverse the removal steps and put them back the way they were.

 

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/pubs/content/~WT/~MUS~LEN/3632/tsb13-05-18.pdf

[neod192]

Well, I tried to follow the instructions in the TSB and remove the tension bars and I failed ... I took everything apart, but couldn't do step 8 ... I tried and I tried, I could life up, but couldn't move it forward at the same time. Looking at how the tension bars are installed, I'm included to think it doesn't really matter which one is on top (other than additional protection from touching the rear deck). I put a microfiber cloth on top of both bars to simulate the rubber sleeve and the the sound I was hearing is still there.

 

Oh well, I put it all back together and took it for a test drive. I couldn't hear that sound, but the real test will be in the morning when I take my normal route to work which is a lot bumpier than my test drive today. I hope that rattling sound is gone for good ... and i don't know if I'm going to bother having the dealer swap out the bars again.

[neod192]

Well, the rattle sound I was hearing is gone (yay!), so it wasn't coming from the tension bars.I'm thinking of just sticking some padding on the rear deck where the bars could touch it, just in case. There's no other reason to have the bars swapped out, so this solution will work and prevent any possible sounds from the 2 bars.

[apm]

I had this TSB done a few weeks ago. I just checked and the bar with the sleeve is on top. I have not heard any rattles at all. I guess the trunk is a little bit more difficult to close as the tension bars are trying to keep the trunk open, but I definetly like the way it is now as compared to the trunk coming down at the slightest touch.

 

Regards,

APM

[corncobs]

Well, I tried to follow the instructions in the TSB and remove the tension bars and I failed ... I took everything apart, but couldn't do step 8 ... I tried and I tried, I could life up, but couldn't move it forward at the same time. Looking at how the tension bars are installed, I'm included to think it doesn't really matter which one is on top (other than additional protection from touching the rear deck). I put a microfiber cloth on top of both bars to simulate the rubber sleeve and the the sound I was hearing is still there.

 

Oh well, I put it all back together and took it for a test drive. I couldn't hear that sound, but the real test will be in the morning when I take my normal route to work which is a lot bumpier than my test drive today. I hope that rattling sound is gone for good ... and i don't know if I'm going to bother having the dealer swap out the bars again.

You could also use a swim noodle or pipe insulation to protect against the rattle it might hold a bit better in place long term.

[smr2112]

Anybody else have this done and think it really didn't make much difference at all? Did not think it

was closing too easily before, and pretty much the same now. I did confirm that they got the right

parts (stickers with parth #s were still on them and matched TSB) and they are in correct order.

 

So who knows. Took 1/2 hour and service manager said there was alot of cursing from guys who

did it. So not easy even for trained staff.

 

[kuzzi]

Could someone please get the diameter of the larger torsion rods? I'm tired of getting my head smacked when working in the trunk. I want to tell the service guys what should be in there with the spoiler.

[smr2112]

 

PART NUMBER PART NAME

DS7Z-5444890-B Luggage Compartment Lid Torsion Bar - Lower

DS7Z-5444891-B Luggage Compartment Lid Torsion Bar - Upper

[kuzzi]

Can anyone with calipers get the diameter of

 

PART NUMBER PART NAME
DS7Z-5444890-B Luggage Compartment Lid Torsion Bar - Lower
DS7Z-5444891-B Luggage Compartment Lid Torsion Bar - Upper

 

in a properly opening trunk with spoiler?

 

I'm a sucker for dimensions.

Edited September 23, 2013 by kuzzi

[smr2112]

I had this done weeks ago with the parts listed above from the TSB. They did it right, but

honestly, I really don't see much of a difference from the way it was before. I'll just

live with it.

 

Sorry I don't know the size of the bars exactly. They still had the stickers on them so I

knew it was the right parts. Seems about 3/8" in diameter per bar. But not an exactly

measurement. May be the stiffness of the bar more than the size.

[murphy]

Upper 0.277"

Lower 0.278"

 

Measured with a micrometer.

[airbusguy]

Make sure the bars are in the lower notch. If they are in the upper notch the trunk lid will open about 2 inches less than it is supposed to. I had to take mine back, after providing a photo comparing what they had done and what the TSB photo and printed instructions stated. It's the very last line on the TSB and easy to miss.

[hybridbear]

We need this done on our new Energi.

 

I asked the service department to take care of some of these things before we picked up the car but they said they could not. The salesman printed out my e-mail and took it to the service manager who said that Ford would not reimburse them for the work on the car before it was sold. We needed to complete the sale first and then I can take it to a dealer for them to fix the issues under warranty.

 

We also need the one-touch window reprogramming and the Engine Block Heater reprogramming as both of those issues are also present.

[acdii]

Well at least you know of a few dealers not to take it to! CC's dealer is EV certified, and they are a Lincoln dealer too, so fancy waiting room. :)