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I;ve got 71,000 miles on my 2010 12 volt battery, and it is still going. The green dot turned red about 10,000 miles ago, but when I monitor it in Engineering Test Mode, it reads about 13.8, and when off reads about 12.4. With a 100 amp load tester on it, it drops to about 11 volts, which I don't consider critically weak. 10.3 volts is my threshold for a 12 volt car battery, based on my experience. If it drops below 8 volts, definitely bad.

 

I have added fluid to it, and am keeping an eye on it, but so far so good. Have them do a 100 amp load test on it. You can get one free at any garage that sells batteries, or buy a tester for $20 at Harbor Freight.

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The 12 vdc battery ( LVB ) does not start the car so it needn't have a high current capacity. The heavy load AC compressor runs off the HVB. The LVB powers things like the water pumps, HVAC blowers, computers, entertainment, power steering, accessories and lights which all are mostly used when the car is on and the DC to DC converter is keeping the LVB charged from the HVB and generators. There are no heavy loads on it that must be recharged like ICE starting.

That being said, there have been a lot of LVB failures. I think most of them stem from sitting after manufacture and perhaps "sulfating". That should happen to any vehicle that sits after manufacture but the FFH LVB seems more susceptible. My 2010 FFH LVB took a week after delivery for the sight gauge green ball to replace the red one. After about six months, the green ball disappeared. I replaced the LVB at my cost at about a year and the OEM replacement still shows green after three years. I use the original as a home backup supply.

Edited by lolder

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Whats funny is the battery on my 2001 Kubota tractor is original and still starts the tractor. I had to put a charger on it once during the winter only because it was so cold out that it was a little weak, but still cranked the engine over, just not enough spin for it to start. I can go out there now and it will fire right up. I got it in 2002.

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My last 6 cars, before the current car, were Fords. I never saw anything other than a red ball on any of them. The Ford replacement instructions say not to replace a battery just because the indicator is red. My 2013 Fusion LVB doesn't have the indicator.

The balls are specific gravity ( SG ) indicators like in the eye dropper types you can get at auto parts stores but in the Ford batteries they are in just one cell and are very sluggish. My LVB hovers around 12.3 v. which would be 60 % charged most of the time but the battery I replaced started to be around 12.15 v. In a battery under no load, or charging, the voltage range from fully charged to dead is 12.7 to 11.7 v. Temperature affects it a little. There is always a small load on the LVB and it can affect the voltage more than you might think. I've measured the SG of the LVB ( unscrewing the caps with quarter ) and the SG indicated a higher charge level than the voltage predicted. I had a large sailboat with 660 ampere hours of 12 vdc batteries for decades and I noticed these peculiarities with them also. The continuous small load on the FFH LVB is higher than in past vehicles which is why they recommend frequent operation , charging or disconnecting if it is to sit for 60 days.

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How do you put the 2010 into Engineering Test Mode?

Thanks!

In the 2010-12s, press and hold "Reset" and "Setup" buttons on the steering wheel for over 5 seconds while you turn the car on. The ETM will appear on the right side of the dash display. You can toggle through ten screens with the "Reset" button. You can exit the ETM by holding the "Reset" for over 2 seconds or turning the car off.

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I was wondering today if there was one of those screens on the 10.

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