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Register your Fusion Hybrid at the official Ford authorized registry here.


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Climate Issues, 2013 FFH


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48 replies to this topic

#41 OFFLINE   airbusguy

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Posted 03 June 2014 - 10:21 PM

Somewhere I read that the Auto a/c has a humidity sensor. This would explain heat and cool at the same time to dehumidify. I'll try and find the source.

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#42 OFFLINE   airbusguy

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Posted 03 June 2014 - 11:00 PM

Owner's guide, fuses, passenger compartment fuses, # 21 ,  humidity and in-car temp, hybrid


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#43 OFFLINE   GrayStrider

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Posted 20 June 2014 - 03:36 PM

 

Every breath you and your passengers exhale is at 100% relative humidity. When you have air in recirculation mode at all times and the A/C on it will cause the evaporator coil to ice up and the cooling efficiency will deminish. This frozen water will also collect any particles, mold, pollen, etc. and keep them frozen until the system is shut off. When you come back to the car you will usually see a puddle of water under the car. This is the excess water that has unfrozen and dripped out of the collection pan, this also can happen during extreme humid days, even in pass through mode. In pass through mode the air is always filtered, I don't know if this is true in recirc mode on this Fusion. Now when you restart the car the system will probably have a slug of stuff intering the car and this might make your allergies worse, unless all the air is filtered in recirc. Some cars have a sewer smell when you first turn the A/C on, this I understand is from keeping the A/C in recurlation mode and never letting the system to dry out, mold forms and gives off this rotten odor.

We're having this odor issue in ours.  Last time we had it serviced, they did not replace the filters.  Time for another trip to the dealer.


2013 Ford Fusion SE Hybrid, Sterling Gray, Luxury Package, Moonroof, Navigation, MFT, Rear Sensing System - LOVE IT!

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#44 OFFLINE   GrayStrider

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Posted 20 June 2014 - 03:38 PM

I had a weird smell in mine the other day, turned out my son needed a bath, He smelled awful. 

Lol... wish that was the problem with ours.


2013 Ford Fusion SE Hybrid, Sterling Gray, Luxury Package, Moonroof, Navigation, MFT, Rear Sensing System - LOVE IT!

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#45 OFFLINE   Sky14FFH

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Posted 19 July 2017 - 11:32 PM

Thanks for the info guys.  My wife has pretty bad allergies and I was curious about the quality of the filters (if they were HEPA quality or not).  If not, I wonder if I could find a HEPA filter for these cars?

 

I'm wondering the same. 
 

The Tesla S has a bioweapon defense mode.  :)  I wouldn't mind updating the filter to a HEPA.  Once had a nice little Renault diesel clio rental in Europe years ago (49mpg HARD driving and using biodiesel) and it was equipped with a nice cabin air filter where nothing from outside got in. Was nice to have when we drove past a creepy old Czech soviet age nuke plant at one point with all this ground level steam just hovering around. Torquey little bugger - zipped up the mountains when all the petrol cars were slowing down.  I wonder if the new model is just as nice.

"Bio-Weapon Defense Mode

Model S now features a Medical grade HEPA air filtration system, which removes at least 99.97% of particulate exhaust pollution and effectively all allergens, bacteria and other contaminants from cabin air. The bioweapon defense mode creates positive pressure inside the cabin to protect occupants"
https://www.tesla.com/models
 

As far as the A/C goes. After running the A/C when you are approaching your destination ALWAYS shut it off and run it on vent for a minute or so to blow out all the condensation.  This will save you from stinky vents.  (kinda suprised you guys didn't know this - must be car nubes)  If you're REALLY having a problem then you need to run the heat on high for about 10 minutes to dry out and hopefully kill any mold in there.  This might be hard to tolerate in the summer.  I've never had this problem in one of my own cars (because I make sure I do this even with rental cars) but everyone used to know that's what you do.


Edited by Sky14FFH, 21 July 2017 - 06:43 PM.


#46 OFFLINE   Waldo

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Posted 20 July 2017 - 02:20 PM

I'm wondering the same. 
 

The Tesla S has a bioweapon defense mode.  :)  I wouldn't mind updating the filter to a HEPA.  Once had a nice little Renault diesel clio rental in Europe years ago (49mpg HARD driving and using biodiesel) and it was equipped with a nice cabin air filter where nothing from outside got in. Was nice to have when we drove past a creepy old Czech soviet age nuke plant at one point with all this ground level steam just hovering around. Torquey little bugger - zipped up the mountains when all the petrol cars were slowing down.  I wonder if the new model is just as nice.

"Bio-Weapon Defense Mode

Model S now features a Medical grade HEPA air filtration system, which removes at least 99.97% of particulate exhaust pollution and effectively all allergens, bacteria and other contaminants from cabin air. The bioweapon defense mode creates positive pressure inside the cabin to protect occupants"
https://www.tesla.com/models
 

As far as the A/C goes. After running the A/C when you are approaching your destination ALWAYS shut it off and run it on vent for a minute or so to blow out all the condensation.  This will save you from stinky vents.  (kinda suprised you guys didn't know this - must be car nubes)  If you're REALLY having a problem then you need to run the heat on high for about 10 minutes to dry out and hopefully kill any mold in there.  This might be hard to tolerate in the summer.  I've never had this problem in one of my own cars but that's what you do.

 

A/C air is dry, non-A/C air is not dry.  So how does turning off dry air and replacing it with less-dry air reduce condensation?



#47 OFFLINE   Sky14FFH

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Posted 21 July 2017 - 06:13 PM

 

A/C air is dry, non-A/C air is not dry.  So how does turning off dry air and replacing it with less-dry air reduce condensation?

Are you serious? Because WARM air can hold more water. It's called relative humidity. With your a/c on it cools down all the surfaces inside the ducts. Once you turn off your A/C ambient air settles in and coats all those surfaces with moisture because the thin layer of air adjacent to the cold surfaces can't carry the water. Haven't you ever taken a cold beer out of the fridge and seen the water bead all over it? Same concept.   That ambient air which is WARM and HUMID condensates moisture and the mold grows on it. (you know it is called dew when it settles on grass at night).    What you're doing when you turn off the cold air and blow warm air through is you're warming up or neutralizing those surfaces so that they are the same temperature as the ambient air and the tiny layer of air adjacent to them can carry as much moisture as the ambient air.   Do not know how else to explain the obvious any better than that, just try it, do it every time and it will work. The only reason cold air feels "drier" than warm air is because it can't hold as much water and once the cold air meets the warm air it feels drier. 
Here's a simple experiment for you.  Is your kitchem faucet metal?  Turn it on and run cold water through it.  What does it do?  Once it fogs up run hot water through it, what happens on the surface of the faucet then?


Edited by Sky14FFH, 21 July 2017 - 06:45 PM.


#48 OFFLINE   Waldo

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Posted 24 July 2017 - 12:27 PM

You didn't say anything about WARM air, you just said turn off the A/C.   You can still put out nice warm dry air with the A/C on, so that's really what you should be recommending.

 

But I've never done this and I've never had any odor problems.  You'd have to run the ducting at pretty hot temperatures for a couple minutes to really bring them up to ambient level, and who in their right mind would ever want to do that?  If you're running with the A/C on, it's because you want to be cold.  Cranking up the heat for a few minutes would seem to defeat the point.

 

Besides if you've been running the car with the A/C on for a while, all the air inside the car is already cold, not ambient.  So when you turn it off, the air inside the car has to warm up, just like the ducts and everything else.  Yes I know air heats up faster, but it's not at all the same thing as pulling a cold beer out of the fridge and into a totally different environment.

 

And just because cold air can't hold as much water doesn't mean it's always fully saturated. I you have cold dry air with no water in it, it's still going to absorb more moisture than warmer air that is close to 100% saturated.



#49 OFFLINE   Sky14FFH

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Posted 24 July 2017 - 01:17 PM

You didn't say anything about WARM air, you just said turn off the A/C.   You can still put out nice warm dry air with the A/C on, so that's really what you should be recommending.

Because you don't need to.  Just turn off the a/c and let ambient warm air (as in air not cooled by the a/c) blow out all the condensated moisture and equalize the surfaces.  Do this with every car you ever use.  It works. 
If you have an existing stink issue because you always failed to do what everyone has known to do since the dawn of air conditioning then try running HOT air through the system to dry out any mold and in the future continue to blow non a/ced air for a few minutes before you park your car.  I do this with a window a/c.  This isn't rocket science.
 

"But I've never done this and I've never had any odor problems."

Then you have nothing to worry about and this conversation is moot!  But some people have had this problem as indicated in this thread which is who this simple basic advice would save a lot of trouble and expense.
 

You'd have to run the ducting at pretty hot temperatures for a couple minutes to really bring them up to ambient level

No, you don't.

and who in their right mind would ever want to do that?

Are you an alien from outer space?

Cranking up the heat for a few minutes would seem to defeat the point.

You're hilarious.  You only crank the heat up to try and kill the mold causing an odor.  But to prevent the odor causing mold simply run it on vent for a few minutes before you approach your destination.  I have found it works in less than a minute, just as I turn into my street.
 

So when you turn it off, the air inside the car has to warm up, just like the ducts and everything else.

Yep minor incovenience to save a big headache.
 

 Yes I know air heats up faster, but it's not at all the same thing as pulling a cold beer out of the fridge and into a totally different environment.

Yes it is the same concept.
 

And just because cold air can't hold as much water doesn't mean it's always fully saturated

Nope, but it is once you approach the dew point or 0 degrees celsius whichever comes first.   Here's a handy dandy calculator to calculate dew point http://andrew.rsmas.miami.edu/bmcnoldy/Humidity.html  I use it to roughly estimate whether the humidity outside is low enough in order to reduce the humidity in my home on days when I'd rather open the windows.

     
Bro, the rest of these questions you'll have to ask your highschool science teacher.  Just do what I suggest and it will work just fine.






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