Oil Change Info for 2013+ Hybrid/Energi

[jeff_h]

I changed my oil in the 2013 FFH for the first time today, here are a couple points that will interest those who change their own oil.

 

- Gone are the thick plastic covers for the drain plug and oil filter from the 2010 that needed a 7mm and 10mm socket/nut driver to remove. Now there is a large cover (for airflow/sound) that is about 3' x 4' (approx of course) and goes under the entire engine, and is secured by 11 Torx T30 screws. So be sure you have one of these T30s on hand before you start, or you will be backing down off the ramps again to run to the auto store. Actually there are two other airflow/sound covers on the underside that are about 2' x 6' each and go down the length of the car on each side of the exhaust. You'll also need a flat-blade screwdriver or other similar device to loosen two plastic clips which hold the cover in place as well.

 

- Drain plug is 15mm (whereas the 2010 was 13mm) and is facing to the rear of the engine, so I assume that a car sitting level or on ramps would both be good for draining.

 

- Oil Filter is about the same place as the 2010, in front and easily accessible, points straight down.

 

- 2013 FFH takes 4.5 quarts as shown in the owner's manual, which is a different amount than is noted for the various engine sizes in the conventional Fusions (which all have different amounts based on each engine type). Oil filler cap specifies 5W-20 which is also noted in the owner's manual. 0W-20 oil is also acceptable as Ashley confirmed in the highlighted green post above.

Edited May 29, 2014 by hybridbear

[B25Nut]

Jeff,

 

Thank you for this. What mileage did you change the oil at? How did the used oil look? I was going to do mine at 5K the first time, then every 8K afterward. Did you happen to check one of your spark plugs to see if it had any signs of fouling like Acdii's? I can't get that out of my mind as something I should do.

[jeff_h]

Thank you for this. What mileage did you change the oil at? How did the used oil look? I was going to do mine at 5K the first time, then every 8K afterward. Did you happen to check one of your spark plugs to see if it had any signs of fouling like Acdii's? I can't get that out of my mind as something I should do.

 

As with any time I get a new car, I change it for the first time at 1,000 miles (it was only slightly dirty) - most will say that's overkill and that the old ways of microscopic metal shavings during break-in are a thing of the past, but I do it anyway as I'm OCD about it. So now I will change every 5,000 even though that's probably more overkill, but I've changed oil every 3,000 miles for many years and so 5,000 is a compromise that I can live with and it's always easy to look at the odometer and know when a change is due.

 

I didn't do anything with the spark plugs, my MPG is very good (if the MPG was bad like Acdii's then that might warrant a check), I didn't mess with the spark plugs on the 2010 until 100k when I had them replaced.

[coach81]

I will probably look to the dealer to change mine around 3K for first break in.. then at normal 5k after that..

[GrySql]

What brand oil and filter?

I've used Mobil 1 full synthetic and plan to continue I guess, Mobil 1 filters too.

[jeff_h]

What brand oil and filter?

I've used Mobil 1 full synthetic and plan to continue I guess, Mobil 1 filters too.

 

There are plenty of threads on that, so hopefully not another debate will launch here - however I use Quaker State full synthetic 5W-20... though I have used Mobil 1 and would be fine with Valvoline or Pennzoil too.

 

On the filter, I used a Motorcraft FL-910 which is the same one that the 2010 used. I normally stock up with a single purchase from rockauto.com (better prices, pay for shipping once for lots of stuff) and this past order got 8 oil filters, extra air filter, and cabin air filter... and put them on the shelf for when they are needed.

[terryb]

I have just read Mobil Oils recommendation the filters be stored in a dry place at room temperature, so I won't be able to store mine in the garage in Houston.

[jeff_h]

I have just read Mobil Oils recommendation the filters be stored in a dry place at room temperature, so I won't be able to store mine in the garage in Houston.

 

That reminds me of another thought that may be helpful to other DIY'ers, is common sense but might not stick in one's mind until they experience it themselves or hopefully through hearing of the experience of others -- in my old house I didn't have a garage (though a garage does not guarantee to prevent this) so my oil filters were stored in a shed... so I went through my usual routine of pulling my truck onto the ramps and draining the oil, then opened the filter box and found that some type flying/carpenter ants had made a nest inside the box and filter. Unfortunately I was on the last filter (I normally get several at a time) and just drained my oil, and didn't want to reuse the old filter - neighbor gave me a ride to the store to get another, so it just took longer than expected.

 

So that's another lesson I learned, which is to make sure that adequate oil/filter is on hand before starting and that no critters have gotten into the filter, and also that the filter is not dented/damaged (had a big dent once too, another reason to verify before starting).

Edited January 19, 2013 by jeff_h

[acdii]

Looks like the oil was changed in mine when they replaced the plugs. So much for getting an oil analysis now. I have always gone with extended changes by doing oil analysis close to the drain interval. Got into that habit with my Diesel since 4 gallons of oil and filter was expensive. Learned I could go 9500 miles between changes using Shell 15W40 Rotella. Now that I only have cars, I just let the dealer change it out, $20 and done. Every 5th change is free too.

[Kaleido]

I'm going back to the dealer for oil changes because the first one is free and then from then on for the life of the car they charge 1/2 price because you bought from them, and their normal price is $42.95, so 1/2 price is $22.00. Not worth me doin' it at those prices!

[GrySql]

On the filter, I used a Motorcraft FL-910 which is the same one that the 2010 used.

Please correct me if I'm wrong but my Owner's Manual calls for the Motorcraft FL-910S in the '13 2.0L FFH engine, it has a Silicone anti-drain back valve.

I have one I bought today and can see the silicone gasket behind the 7 oval drain holes.

[jeff_h]

Please correct me if I'm wrong but my Owner's Manual calls for the Motorcraft FL-910S in the '13 2.0L FFH engine, it has a Silicone anti-drain back valve.

I have one I bought today and can see the silicone gasket behind the 7 oval drain holes.

 

Actually I used the Motorcraft FL-910-oops-I-forgot-the-S-on-my-post-actually-I-think-they-probably-all-have-S-for-the-reason-you-state.... nice catch, sorry about that.

Edited January 23, 2013 by jeff_h

[GrySql]

I think you are right, the store only carried the 'S' version.

I wasn't trying to 'catch' you, just making sure of what I was doing, thank you for the thread about all this. :)

[coach81]

If I tried to change anything on my car... it would probably blow up as a result :hysterical:

 

You guys are so awesome to be able to do that.. no sir.. off to the dealer for me!!!

[hybridbear]

I changed the oil myself after about 150 miles on the ICE, about 275 miles on the odometer, and it looked pretty clean but I'm a little paranoid being that this is the first time I've bought a brand new car... I got coupons from the dealer for 3 oil changes a year for the first 3 years free so I then took it to the dealer again before our road trip when the ICE had about 750 miles on it, 1250 on the odometer. Then again when we returned from our trip with 6000 miles on the odometer and about 3800 on the ICE. So far I've been tracking at each oil change the odometer reading and the EV miles based on the Lifetime Summary so that I can see how many miles are on the ICE at each oil change. I figure I'll change oil about every 3000 miles on the ICE which will probably be about every 5000-6000 on the odometer. In winter I'll change more often because the ICE runs more, in summer the odometer interval might be closer to 8000 miles to put 3000 miles on the ICE.

 

I've always done my own oil changes before this and am a little worried about the 18 year old techs at the dealer making a mistake and killing my car. So I have these coupons for free oil changes but don't know about using them all because I rather enjoy changing the oil...

[acdii]

You are wasting oil. The oil that you are taking out is so clean and fresh that it can be used in another engine. IE Dont believe the 3000 mile oil hype. Here is what I suggest, being as I was a mechanic for quite some time and have a pretty good handle on lubrication, On the next oil change, send a sample to Blackstone, and for $20 they analyze the oil and send yo a report, with change recommendations. The synthetic oils last a long time, even longer in hybrids due to their ULEV design, the 10K oil change interval is no longer a myth. I used to get 9500 miles out of oil changes in my F350 Diesel, and the reports always came back showing I could go at least 2000 or more miles on it. Now if a diesel can get 10K on an oil change, these little clean burning engines can surely do it too.

 

Back when the 3k oil change came about, oil was not very good, and had to be replaced frequently, but today, even the cheap walmart oil is far better than that stuff was. Save some time and money and try to oil test and see. My 2010 has 36500 miles and has only had the oil changed 3 times, and it is still clear with 6K on this last one.

[hybridbear]

The synthetic oils last a long time, even longer in hybrids due to their ULEV design, the 10K oil change interval is no longer a myth.

 

Back when the 3k oil change came about, oil was not very good, and had to be replaced frequently, but today, even the cheap walmart oil is far better than that stuff was. Save some time and money and try to oil test and see. My 2010 has 36500 miles and has only had the oil changed 3 times, and it is still clear with 6K on this last one.

 

I don't use synthetic, I use conventional oil. And after 3000 miles in my Honda Accord Hybrid the oil was always black. Since I have free oil changes now on the Fusion for a couple years I don't know what the oil looks like when it comes out but from checking the oil regularly and looking at it on the paper towel it is pretty dark after about 3000 miles on the ICE.

[acdii]

You really should be using synthetic oil, its what they call for in these cars. It comes from the factory with a synthetic blend. I usually switch over to Mobil 1 in my normal cars and truck on the first change, but the Hybrids work fine on the semi syn Motorcraft oil . I once had a 1979 Ford LTD wagon with the 5.0 in it that I had blue printed. Drove that car until rust killed the frame and with 250K on the engine, pulled it out to put into a Grand Marquis, and to do so had to drop the pan. I use to go 30K between changes on that engine, just swap filters and top off, and that engine was as clean as the day I built it, and within .002" of the original specs on the bearings. Good oil and filters can last a long time. I got another 50K until some jackoff passed me on a snowy road and slammed into the car and wrecked it.

[hybridbear]

Well for now I use whatever the dealer puts in with my free oil changes...I imagine it's Ford's cheapest oil, whatever that is.

[hybridbear]

I've always been told that more important than using synthetic is to just change the oil more frequently. Oil is oil is oil when it comes to the brands, I'll always buy whichever brand of oil and filter is cheapest that week. Or at least that's what I did before, now I won't have to worry about that for a few years.

[fusionTX]

I started out with synthetic on my Camry Hybrid, but switched over to regular oil. Much cheaper. I change every 5000 miles, which is what is recmmended on the Camry. No issues to date. Car still in great shape with 92,000 miles on it.

[acdii]

Here is where you do need to be careful, while under warranty, always use the oil they specify, after warranty, use what ever you want. For the most part dealers use the correct oil, it may not be Motorcraft specific branded, but will meet of exceed the Motorcraft specs, which is Synthetic blend, or full synthetic. While under warranty, I let them do the oil, afterwards I do my own if I want to with Mobil 1, or if I just dont feel like laying under the car, let them do it, for $20, why the hell not.

[ace8726872]

In my opinion, modern day motor oil, wether conventional or synthetic, would be able to provide adequate protection in a modern engine for a good long time. What I don't trust is the filter. I am not a mechanic and I don't know too much about the car maintenance. I think of the motor oil and the filter as the blood and liver in a human body. I would think that changing the oil and filter often would probably help keep the engine better and longer. I think doing 5,000 mile changes at $30 seems reasonable. I run about 15,000 miles a year so it will cost me just under $100 per year which is not bad. Paying anything over seems to me like I am spending all of the money that I saved from hybrid system into a motor oil which are produced by the same greedy oil companies.

 

One question I have is about the Atkinson cycle engine. I remember that different types of engines had difference effect in motor oil. For example, Mazda's rotary engine was designed to burn small amount of oil to lubricate and preserve the apex seals and the cylinder walls. I may be completely off but the piston movement in the Atkinson engine looks a little similar to the wankel rotary engine. I am afraid that Atkinson engine behaves differently than the traditional four stroke engines. When in doubt, I think it makes sense to play it safe and change the oil a bit more often.

[hermans]

I have always followed the manufacture's recommendations. On the FFH, Ford says every 12 months or 10,000 miles and I will follow that.

Edited February 24, 2013 by hermans

[acdii]

As I mentioned before, if you really want to know how well your oil and filter is working, have an analysis done on the oil. Once you have a couple of those done, you will know exactly when oil should be changed and how long it will last. In the long run the $20 you spend on the analysis can save you hundreds during the life of the car, and it will last just as long. When running a Diesel, with oil changes costing upwards of $80 a pop, you want to do it was few times as you can. 4 gallons of oil every 3000 miles gets mighty damned expensive, especially since it lasts 3 times that.

 

Using a good filter, like Motorcraft or WIX, and staying away from Fram, you can rest assured you have the best filter available, that will last the recommended change interval.

 

Thing to note, there are only a couple manufacturers if oil filters, one factory makes filters for multiple brands. Mobil one filters are identical to John Deere filters, and I would not be surprised if K&N filters are from the same plant. Motorcraft and WIX(Napa) filters come from the same plant.

 

I once had a TCH and did an oil change on it, bought a Mobil 1 filter. I also had to do an oil change on my John Deere Garden Tractor. It uses a spin on oil filter. The Mobil 1 filter cost me about $11, the John Deere, from the Deere parts counter cost $7. I pulled them each out of the box, they were identical in shape, size, threads, drain holes. Then I looked at the part number stamped on the housing. They were the same part number, only the date stamp was different.