Factory glue / sealant overspray on my paint!!

[Rodeo]

OK, When I picked up my new car on Thursday from the Stealer - Dealer, it was filty as all heck. This being a fleet lease, the dealer salesman told me point blank that they don't care and all they do is deliver the car to me regardless of condition. of course I did a walk around before signing for it but now that I've had it home for a few days I found a few issues.

 

Today I washed and waxed the car in my garage. I found some type of sealant / glue? black colored overspray on the paint under each rear quarter window (on the sill mostly, above the rear door handle) and a big area of drippage between the front and rear door on one side, on the bottom sill. I tried 'goo gone" to no avail and finally resorted to "Bug and Tar" remover and worked my arse off to get the window sill areas pretty clean, but not nearly 100% clean. Now that I spotted the bigger area at the bottom of the doors, I can envision the work it will take to get that fairly clean too. Anyone else deal with this overspray on their cars and find a better answer to removal? It seems to be some type of sealer for installing the windows or moldings, or rubber gaskets maybe. All I know is nothing seems to want to cut it and dissolve it away. it's definitely on top of the clear coat and feels like hard rubber dots. (looks that way too.) Good thing it blends in pretty well with the Tuxedo Black paint or it would really look bad.

 

 

I've already lodged a complaint to the leasing company about the dealershp because of their (I could care less) attitude upon delivery and the fact that the car was not even washed for me. In case anyone is wondering, it's Weisleder Lincoln Mercury in Brick, NJ and I wouldn't ever buy anything from them because of their attitude.

[2010 Sport Blue SEL]

Try using a clay bar and detailing spray.

[Rodeo]

Here's two photos. The first shows the spatter still on the window glass and that same spatter was all over the paint right below the molding there, about as long as the quarter window is itself. Had to work my arse off rubbing that all off with a kitchen sponge and bug & tar remover. It's about 95% better now after working on each side for a good half hour each. I still need to get the glass itself clean, perhaps with a razor blade. It wasn't on the molding though which says it was sprayed on before the molding was placed.

 

Then I spotted the section under the doors in between the door seams. Looks to be the same goop, whatever it is. This is more then little dots of spatter and will take much more work to remove. That's why I'm looking for something better to dissolve it.

 

Thus far, I am not impressed with the build quality of the Fusion . Milan out of Mehico. No quality car built by anybody else would have this carelessness about it.

 

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[Rodeo]

A fellow New Jerseyan and member of the Ford Fussion Clud forum recommended that I try "denatured alcohol" which I finally had a chance to do today. Worked like a charm and I had all the gunk off in less then a minute. It's like miracle cleaner after struggling with both "goo gone" and "bug and tar" remover for close to an hour.

 

I'll never be without a can of this stuff in my garage ever again. DENATURED ALCOHOL :happy feet:

[Buster1]

I have some of the same "overspray" as you did on my new FFH around the door jams and windows. Glad to see you found a fix.

 

Can you get D'ed Alcohol at Home Depot or something?

[Hawkeye1975]

Try some minerial spirts (solvent) for any type of glue or adhesive. A razor blade will work well on th window, just make sure

its new. In worst case scenarios, lacquar thinner can be the answer, but there are risks, usally I will pour it onto a damp towel

to slightly lesson its strength. You would be surpurised how many detail shops use it to remove glue, tar, tree sap, etc.

[akirby]

Try some minerial spirts (solvent) for any type of glue or adhesive. A razor blade will work well on th window, just make sure

its new. In worst case scenarios, lacquar thinner can be the answer, but there are risks, usally I will pour it onto a damp towel

to slightly lesson its strength. You would be surpurised how many detail shops use it to remove glue, tar, tree sap, etc.

 

Try bug and tar remover or wd40 first - they're safer. A clay bar would also work without any potential damage. If you use a solvent be VERY careful.

[Hawkeye1975]

Try bug and tar remover or wd40 first - they're safer. A clay bar would also work without any potential damage. If you use a solvent be VERY careful.

 

Both WD40 and most tar removers contain solvent, they will have a smaller percentage of solvent, I believe WD40 is almost 50% solvent based. I agree

try some clay first, just use a small piece from the clay bar, that way you wont ruin the whole bar.

Edited September 22, 2010 by Hawkeye1975