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Guest Message by DevFuse

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Register your Fusion Hybrid at the official Ford authorized registry here.


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Drivers Window inoperative


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3 replies to this topic

#1 OFFLINE   lolder

lolder

    Fusion Hybrid Addict

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  • Region:Decline
  • Location:Florida
  • Current Vehicle:2010 FFH 501A Trim
  • My Hybrid's Year:Decline

Posted 29 October 2016 - 10:39 PM

Last week my drivers window quit stone cold. Looking at the 12 vdc bus with a voltmeter, I could see no voltage wiggle when the window switch was operated. All other windows had a small drop. The drivers window has it's own fuse in the upper left corner of the fuse panel which is underneath the dash up and to the left of the brake pedal. It is almost inaccessible. I pried the half-moon shaped panel off the left end of the instrument panel and then you could see the fuse panel.The fuse panel cover snaps off by squeezing two lower taps and then I was able to reach in there with long-nose pliers and pull the fuse. It looked OK and tested OK. I put the same fuse back and the window now works again. I paid myself $250, thank you very much. Weird!


Edited by lolder, 29 October 2016 - 10:44 PM.








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#2 OFFLINE   murphy

murphy

    Fusion Hybrid Addict

  • Fusion Hybrid Member
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  • Region:U.S. Northeast
  • Location:PA
  • Current Vehicle:2013 Fusion Energi Titanium

Posted 30 October 2016 - 05:48 AM

There is a white translucent piece of plastic clipped to the upper part of the fuse panel that is a fuse puller, for future reference.



#3 OFFLINE   lolder

lolder

    Fusion Hybrid Addict

  • Fusion Hybrid Member
  • 1,806 posts
  • Region:Decline
  • Location:Florida
  • Current Vehicle:2010 FFH 501A Trim
  • My Hybrid's Year:Decline

Posted 30 October 2016 - 11:34 AM

Yes, I know but the pliers looked easier.



#4 OFFLINE   lolder

lolder

    Fusion Hybrid Addict

  • Fusion Hybrid Member
  • 1,806 posts
  • Region:Decline
  • Location:Florida
  • Current Vehicle:2010 FFH 501A Trim
  • My Hybrid's Year:Decline

Posted 30 October 2016 - 09:44 PM

I find it hard to believe that corrosion on the connections of the 30 amp fuse could have caused the malfunction. The terminals on the fuse looked fine and the fuse pushed back in with substantial resistance. It might be possible that the electronics of the auto up/down window crashed. If it happens again I'll disconnect the 12 vdc battery first which is much simpler.






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